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Trans Am WS6 Complete Fluid change/Tune Up

This is a discussion on Trans Am WS6 Complete Fluid change/Tune Up within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hi I got a 2000 Trans Am Ws6 6 Speed manual and I have 29,000 miles on it, and I ...

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    Trans Am WS6 Complete Fluid change/Tune Up

    Hi I got a 2000 Trans Am Ws6 6 Speed manual and I have 29,000 miles on it, and I want to have all the fluids changed and a complete maintenance/tune up. I need some help on what things to do and what items to use(Brands and type). I want to change ALL the fluids. So if you guys can let me know which ones to use for specific parts and what additives if any are needed. I would really appreciate this help. Please let me know what else i should look into and what and where I can purchase the items. Theirs so many things so I would rather ask someone who knows what to and which products to use and where to get them from. So please feel free to let me know all the things worth changing/upgrading THANKS!!!!

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Well if you want to do a total change that would include: engine oil, trans fluid, differential fluid, coolant, brake fluid, and power steering.

    To change the coolant it is easy. First get the car up in the air so you can get under it then get a pretty big catch pan. There is this valve directly on the bottom of the radiator that you are going to open to let the coolant out, open it slowly and adjust the pans location accordingly. If you just open it all the way quickly coolant is going to spray all over the place(happened to me).Next let that drain and once that is finished or if you have another pan there is a drain plug on the side of the block near the front, open that. Now you can just drain it like that or you can run water from a hose to get it all out for sure. For replacement Fluid I would use dexi-cool III . After no more coolant is coming out screw the drain plugs back in and then fill her up.

    To change the oil you need 6 quarts of oil and a oil filter. There is a drain plug on the side of the oil pan next to the filter. Place the pan under it and unscrew it slowly. Let it drain then unscrew the oil filter, you may need a filter wrench depending on how tight it is. Tighten the drain plug, but don't crank it. Once that is done pre-fill the filter and screw it on hand tight. Then go up top and put about 4 quarts or so in and start the car and get it up to operating temp and check the oil level and add accordingly. For oil I use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 and an Amsoil filter.

    For differential fluid get the rear up in the rear of the car up in the air and put a bucket under the "pumpkin" in the center of the differential. Unbolt the cover starting with the bottom just enough so it starts draining fluid. Then when the flow stops or slows down unbolt the rest of the bolts. Hold on to the cover when you get to the last bolt so it doesn't fall off. Slowly pull the cover off and clean out the remainder of fluid. I didn't use a gasket I bought hi temp silicone gasket maker and scraped the old gasket off. Then I rubbed it around the perimeter generously and then smoothed it out. Next bolt the cover back on and make sure they are all snug. On the passenger side there is a plug hole that will take just a ratchet with no attachment, unscrew it and start pouring in differential fluid in. It is a little awkward to get it in so I got a pump that has a hose that you can put right in there and attach it to the quarts of fluid. Then you just pump and it goes in easy. You need about 1.5 quarts of 75w-90 differential fluid with limited slip additive but buy 2 quarts. Keep adding it until it starts to come out of the fill plug and then screw ut back in.I use either Vavoline 75w-90 with limited slip for high performance or Amsoil.
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    For a brake fluid change what you do is basically flush it out with new fluid. Use DOT 3 fluid, I forget how much you need, I will try to find it and update this post. Start with opening the master reservoir then remove the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster or something similar. Then fill it up with new fluid. Next you will flush the brakes, start with the back right, then the.back left, front right and then front left. You will need tubing and a bottle to catch the fluid. Find the bleeder screw on the caliper and remove the dust cap and attach the tubing and put the end in a bottle. Then using an open ended wrench loosen the bleeder screw and bleed the fluid until you see the new fluid coming out. Then tighten the screw back down and put the dust cap on. Repeat this for each caliper. Check the reservoir and top it off, DO NOT LET RUN DRY. There are two methods I have used to flush the brakes the first is done with two people, one person pumps the pedal and the second opens and closes the bleed screw. The second is done with a pressurized pump, like the motive pump. You attach the pump to the reservoir and pump it up to 10-15 psi, this allows one person to bleed the brakes without letting air in.I use Vavoline brake fluid DOT 3&4

    I'll post the others up when I have the time.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 06-07-2012 at 04:42 PM.

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    I'll add changing the fuel filter. The fuel filter is under the car on the driver's side near the left rear tire. It's a silver or gray colored canister. If I recall correctly, you'll need a 5/8 open-end wrench and a adjustable wrench to get the fitting loose. Some people recommend relieving the fuel pressure under the hood via the Shrader valve on the fuel line. Keep plenty of shop rags on hand when you take the filter off or relieve pressure on the valve under the hood. The filter has plastic tabs that you have to depress on one end to remove it. Use the wrenches on the opposite end to loosen the filter. Put one wrench on the filter, the other on the fitting on the fuel line and loosen it. Install the new filter in the opposite sequence that you removed the old one. Start the car up to check for any leaks. I'd suggest turning the ignition switch on and off several times to build pressure back up in the fuel lines before you actually start the car.

    I'd also suggest changing the PCV valve, cleaning the throttle body and cleaning the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. Also, don't forget to check your air filter.
    Last edited by FinZ28; 06-07-2012 at 05:56 PM.
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    There are actually two (2) drains on the block. A large brass plug above the alternator on the driver side -- takes a 17mm allen head to remove it. Also a smaller allen head plug just above the starter on the passenger side. It's metric as well, but a 5/16" standard allen head seemed to have the best fit for me.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    There are actually two (2) drains on the block. A large brass plug above the alternator on the driver side -- takes a 17mm allen head to remove it. Also a smaller allen head plug just above the starter on the passenger side. It's metric as well, but a 5/16" standard allen head seemed to have the best fit for me.
    I knew I was forgetting something, couldn't remember if there were 2 or not.

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    Good info here. For the air filter, use a paper filter. A lot of people like Amsoil. I'd just suggest any quality paper filter.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Good info here. For the air filter, use a paper filter. A lot of people like Amsoil. I'd just suggest any quality paper filter.
    +1

    I changed my oil about a month ago and swapped out the K&N for a paper filter while I was at it.

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    Also I would replace the spark plugs/wires. I have used both NGK TR55s and AUTOLITE spark plugs and like both. I gapped them at .04. I installed msd wires with them as well. Another thing I forgot to mention when I was describing flushing the radiator was to replace the water pump hose. I would also replace the serpentine belt with either the good year gatorback belt or a quality poly belt. I also replaced my oil drain plug with a magnetic one with an o-ring built into it to get any metal fragments out if the oil.

    To change your clutch fluid I would get as much out if the reservoir out with a turkey baster as you can and then top it off with fresh fluid and then bleed the clutch via the fitting until you see the fresh fluid coming out and then close the bleeder. Make sure to check the reservoir periodically and top it off.Do not let the reservoir to run dry. This will make it a longer process if air is let in the system. You can bleed the system two ways either the two person method like with bleeding the brakes or the single person method with the tick performance bleeder. As for fluid don't really know since I have an A4.

    I believe to change the transmission fluid in the t56 there is a drain plug on the passenger side that a 3/8 ratchet fits and the fill plug is on the drivers side. So put a pan under it and remove the drain plug. Let it drain and get a bottle pump like I described in changing the differential fluid and pump the fluid in until it starts dripping out a little bit, then reinstall the fill plug. I would use Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 06-07-2012 at 09:55 PM.

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    Awesome write up. I will have to keep this in mind.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    There is also a write-up in the General Help section under Technical Write-ups called Routine Maintenance / Service Intervals.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    There is also a write-up in the General Help section under Technical Write-ups called Routine Maintenance / Service Intervals.
    Couldnt find where that is?

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    Here you go: General Routine Maintenance / Service Intervals Lots of good info.

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    Thanks, Jeff. Couldn't link it from my phone.

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    No problem, I don't do very well posting with my phone. So much easier from my desktop.

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    I would also recommend you pull each wheel and inspect, clean and re-grease the brake caliper slides and pins. Your WS6 could very well have the original brakes and that original factory lubrication on the pins is going to be pretty dirty. I had the same situation with my 2002 having 8,000 miles last fall. There was 10 years of accumulated grud. I cleaned everything with CRC Brake Cleaner and relubricated with Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease.( Mostly comes in individual little packs for each caliper point.) After that I no longer had any pad knock back. Also put some anti seize lubricant on the back side of each wheel mounting surface. Don't be alarmed if you have a tough time initially getting the wheels off. I had to have another person hold the wheel/tire while I got underneath on the inside and used both feet to get it loose.
    It's all good stuff and when you're through the confidence level is there to take her out and not worry about your distance from home !
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    Im having a slight issue with my power steering most of the times its great but sometimes it really does tighten up alot. I was low on power steeing fluid so i added some. Still having the issue does anyone know what i should do next, should i flush the fluid or do you guys think its something else thats the issue thanks

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    Whats the BEST spark plugs and wires i can get??? thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Also I would replace the spark plugs/wires. I have used both NGK TR55s and AUTOLITE spark plugs and like both. I gapped them at .04. I installed msd wires with them as well. Another thing I forgot to mention when I was describing flushing the radiator was to replace the water pump hose. I would also replace the serpentine belt with either the good year gatorback belt or a quality poly belt. I also replaced my oil drain plug with a magnetic one with an o-ring built into it to get any metal fragments out if the oil.

    To change your clutch fluid I would get as much out if the reservoir out with a turkey baster as you can and then top it off with fresh fluid and then bleed the clutch via the fitting until you see the fresh fluid coming out and then close the bleeder. Make sure to check the reservoir periodically and top it off.Do not let the reservoir to run dry. This will make it a longer process if air is let in the system. You can bleed the system two ways either the two person method like with bleeding the brakes or the single person method with the tick performance bleeder. As for fluid don't really know since I have an A4.

    I believe to change the transmission fluid in the t56 there is a drain plug on the passenger side that a 3/8 ratchet fits and the fill plug is on the drivers side. So put a pan under it and remove the drain plug. Let it drain and get a bottle pump like I described in changing the differential fluid and pump the fluid in until it starts dripping out a little bit, then reinstall the fill plug. I would use Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF

  19. #19
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I think most people use NGK's for spark plugs.

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    Ok so i did all the fluids and the car drives great... Amsoil everything. I changed the fuel filter (ACdelco) because on cold starts car would fire right up. But when it warms up Sometimes it takes a while to fire up i have to prime it and ususally takes about 4-5 seconds. Anyone know what this could be now that the fuel filter isnt the case. Maybe a fuel pump relay or a fuel pump? Whats the psi suppost to be for the fuel if anyone one knows THANKS!

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