Trans Am Speakers, Head/Cam, and Tune...Big Thread

[90ARAPAJ]

My Trans Am (1998) has been in storage and ive been thinking of a few new things to do to it as I gave it new plugs/ wires and exhaust over the summer.

1.) To begin with, my subwoofer on the driver side blew out and i want to replace it (both sides) with better 6" subs such as a kickers but ABC Warehouse told me they have to re-wire everything. I want full details on that and how much better of subs they are.

2.) I want to tune my car but i have it currently under HYPERTECH settings and the local performance shop told me that I have to bring in the tuner so they can bring the car back to stock and re-tune it. The problem with that is i have my car calibrated for 4.56 gears when I actually have 3.73s in the back. I did this to save mileage but i did some experiments with my hypertech and the car runs like its on 3.73s when i set it to that on my tuner ( when i say that i mean it revs to the same redline but higher MPH) but when i set it to 4.56 it still redlines but the MPH is lower and the computer thinks it has the 4.56s so what can i do about that? Also, what do they really do to make a car run THAT much better/ faster because i know a tune makes a big difference.

3.) I really want to throw a cam on my car along with heads but i dont really know if i want that beefy impractical sound/idle. I want a mild cam/heads with alotta of horsepower.

4.) i have 47,000 original babied miles and i hear ALOT of bad things about these stock rear ends, i would like full details on that.

5.) I want to make cutouts, I have MAC midlength headers with an off raod Y-pipe and dynomax muffler, i would like that beasty sound on demand.

Money really is not an issue here guys so express yourselfs. Thanks.

[Knight]

To start, do as the shop stated and take the tuner to them. They'll revert the car to stock tune and make their adjustments. However, if you decide to do any mods first, wait to get it tuned.

As to the mods, first being cam and heads. There are many choices, so figure out what the main goal for your car will be. Trick Flow offer some very nice combo packages that put out impressive numbers. Contact the manufacturers, or reps, and explain to them what you're looking for. Most are quite helpful, and will make suggestions.

Are you an A4 or M6? If an A4, look into a stall. By far one of the best mods for an automatic. You'll also need an aftermarket tranny cooler. If you're a M6, look into upgrading the clutch and hydraulics.

As for the rear, sadly what you've heard is true. For most, the 10 bolt doesn't hold up. It's a small diameter ring and pinion setup, that just can't handle power. The solution is to replace it with a 12 bolt, 9", or D60 rear end. Moser, MWC, and Strange are the top manufacturers. I'd also look into a full length torque arm, and relocate it off the tranny tailshaft. Check out adjustable panhard bars, lower control arm relocation brackets, adjustable lower control arms, driveshaft, sub-frame connectors, shocks, and springs.

As for the other stuff, I'll let others give their recommendations.

[90ARAPAJ]

To start, do as the shop stated and take the tuner to them. They'll revert the car to stock tune and make their adjustments. However, if you decide to do any mods first, wait to get it tuned.

As to the mods, first being cam and heads. There are many choices, so figure out what the main goal for your car will be. Trick Flow offer some very nice combo packages that put out impressive numbers. Contact the manufacturers, or reps, and explain to them what you're looking for. Most are quite helpful, and will make suggestions.

Are you an A4 or M6? If an A4, look into a stall. By far one of the best mods for an automatic. You'll also need an aftermarket tranny cooler. If you're a M6, look into upgrading the clutch and hydraulics.

As for the rear, sadly what you've heard is true. For most, the 10 bolt doesn't hold up. It's a small diameter ring and pinion setup, that just can't handle power. The solution is to replace it with a 12 bolt, 9", or D60 rear end. Moser, MWC, and Strange are the top manufacturers. I'd also look into a full length torque arm, and relocate it off the tranny tailshaft. Check out adjustable panhard bars, lower control arm relocation brackets, adjustable lower control arms, driveshaft, sub-frame connectors, shocks, and springs.

As for the other stuff, I'll let others give their recommendations.

I have an A4. But ive heard many times before about a stall. What does it exactly do? Is it practical? How much HP does it give me? and How does it give it to me?
Also, whats a tranny cooler really do to increase performance? I think i already have one....and why a different torque arm and why relocate it? i have SFCs welded on full ones too along with a 3 point strut tower brace and roll cage. But, why must i replace everything you just listed? i also have eibach springs, looks cool sitting low but has a really rough ride.

[Knight]

A stall doesn't add any horsepower. It does allow you to use the horsepower you have more effectively. Basically, it allows the engine to reach it's powerband quicker, and keeps it there while shifting. At a certain speed, it will lockup, and act just as a stock one would - usually around a higher cruising speed. A tranny cooler will be needed if you do a stall, as the tranny heat load will increase. No horsepower gain though. Just ensures the longevity of the tranny.

As for the rest, any increase in horsepower and torque will put more of a strain on the suspension and drivetrain componants. And with a different rear end, you'll want adjustable componants. That way, you can ensure everything gets lined up properly.

[pajeff02]

I installed a 3,200 stall converter in our car last summer -- made a world of difference at the track and it is a whole lot of fun on the street. Highly recommended for our cars.