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Torque Arm Installation Tips

This is a discussion on Torque Arm Installation Tips within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I completed the install of my UMI Torque Arm this past weekend.(You can view all of my UMI installed items ...

  1. #1
    Member Redrokit8's Avatar
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    2002 Trans AM WS6

    Torque Arm Installation Tips

    I completed the install of my UMI Torque Arm this past weekend.(You can view all of my UMI installed items on my signature)
    I thought it might be helpful to pass on the following information for those who are going to do a first time install.

    *UMI instructs you to remove the Torgue Arm clam shell and bushing mounted on the trans tailshaft, and take out the old bushing by drilling or cutting off the rivets which attach the old bushing to the clam shell housing. The clam shell is a two piece affair and is easy enough to take off the front side. However, the second side that faces the transmission has too long of an attaching bolt that goes through the trans tail shaft and will not pull out due to not having enough space in the the under body trans tunnel. Don't even think about trying to drill out the rivets. You need to have a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel in order to remove the old bushing, rivets and metal backing plate. I would tell you to have a minimum of 3 if not 4 cutting wheels. It's easy to turn them ruby red hot and they'll wear out fairly fast cutting the rivets The front half detaches easily and you can cut the rivets off very easily with it off of the car.
    When installing the new arm it would be a good idea to have a helper assist you in lining up the arm to the bushing. I did it by myself and it was a struggle as the new bar is way much heavier than the removed stock arm.
    Before you install the bar you need to lubricate the new bushing and the end of the bar with their supplied grease.( This grease is so sticky I'm pretty sure it will outlast the the life of the car) You can't compress the new bushing very much or you will not be able to push the new bar through the bushing opening. I took the bushing and compressed it by hand to fit the outer clam shell half. Then I threaded the top most mounting nut just a couple of turns and then pushed the front mounting portion through. It's a tight fit even with the top nut just on by a couple of threads. I then went to the rear differential and secured the two rear mounting bolts. Then back to the front clamshell and compressed the bushing into the clamp by tightening the mounting bolts. It would have been a lot smoother had I had a lift and not had to lie on my back. If my memory is correct you'll need a 13/16ths socket and boxed end wrench to remove the old rear bolts and a 7/8ths socket and boxed end wrench to install the new UMI bolts/nuts. ( get the new UMI hardware. it's longer and stronger) As far as the front clam shell you'll need just a couple of 15mm open and boxed end wrenches. If you have trouble lining the bolt holes up on the rear axle use a floor jack minutely to raise the pumpkin because the rear end can slip just a little to make your life miserable.
    Obviously this was an amateur install and I hope there was some sense to the message.

  2. #2
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    pajeff02's Avatar
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    Any pics of the process?

  3. #3
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redrokit8 View Post
    I completed the install of my UMI Torque Arm this past weekend.(You can view all of my UMI installed items on my signature)
    I thought it might be helpful to pass on the following information for those who are going to do a first time install.

    *UMI instructs you to remove the Torgue Arm clam shell and bushing mounted on the trans tailshaft, and take out the old bushing by drilling or cutting off the rivets which attach the old bushing to the clam shell housing. The clam shell is a two piece affair and is easy enough to take off the front side. However, the second side that faces the transmission has too long of an attaching bolt that goes through the trans tail shaft and will not pull out due to not having enough space in the the under body trans tunnel. Don't even think about trying to drill out the rivets. You need to have a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel in order to remove the old bushing, rivets and metal backing plate. I would tell you to have a minimum of 3 if not 4 cutting wheels. It's easy to turn them ruby red hot and they'll wear out fairly fast cutting the rivets The front half detaches easily and you can cut the rivets off very easily with it off of the car.
    When installing the new arm it would be a good idea to have a helper assist you in lining up the arm to the bushing. I did it by myself and it was a struggle as the new bar is way much heavier than the removed stock arm.
    Before you install the bar you need to lubricate the new bushing and the end of the bar with their supplied grease.( This grease is so sticky I'm pretty sure it will outlast the the life of the car) You can't compress the new bushing very much or you will not be able to push the new bar through the bushing opening. I took the bushing and compressed it by hand to fit the outer clam shell half. Then I threaded the top most mounting nut just a couple of turns and then pushed the front mounting portion through. It's a tight fit even with the top nut just on by a couple of threads. I then went to the rear differential and secured the two rear mounting bolts. Then back to the front clamshell and compressed the bushing into the clamp by tightening the mounting bolts. It would have been a lot smoother had I had a lift and not had to lie on my back. If my memory is correct you'll need a 13/16ths socket and boxed end wrench to remove the old rear bolts and a 7/8ths socket and boxed end wrench to install the new UMI bolts/nuts. ( get the new UMI hardware. it's longer and stronger) As far as the front clam shell you'll need just a couple of 15mm open and boxed end wrenches. If you have trouble lining the bolt holes up on the rear axle use a floor jack minutely to raise the pumpkin because the rear end can slip just a little to make your life miserable.
    Obviously this was an amateur install and I hope there was some sense to the message.


    OP, you could have removed the drive shaft and removed all of the bolts on the cross member that holds the tranny in place while having a floor jack underneath. Lower the floor jack enough and you will be able to pull those 2 bolts out without any problems. This would have taken you a 1/8 of the time you took with the dremel.


    Also are you running a stock cross over exhaust tube or an ORY?

    When I did my TA I had no problems removing those bolts. In fact I remember now that I didn't even drop the tranny with the floor jack because I also got the relocation kit. So all I had to do was remove all of the stock stuff. I asked the above question because my ORY doesn't use the bracket that is located near the tranny and so I had more room.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    You mean these bolts right?




  5. #5
    Member Redrokit8's Avatar
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    Running just a Cat Back Quad Tip Magnaflow.
    I see your point about lowering the trans. I was so befuddled laying under there that I just thought "what the heck, cut'em off"!
    Magnaflow Quad Tip, Lid, SBellow
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