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02-22-2010, 09:18 AM #1
So my Fernco smooth bellows sucks....
I dremeled out one side a bit for a smooth fitment to the TB. No problem, then I managed to get it on to the Ram Air resonator and then connected to the lid. The problem is the damn lid is raising up in the back because there is no flex in the 6$ plumbing hose. Go figure right? How did you guys (whoever did this mod) get around this issue? I intend to get a lid (that may help) but the measurements are the same essentially so it should fit no problem right?
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02-22-2010, 10:09 AM #2
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- Feb 2008
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- NEW JERSEY
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PEWTER- 2001 TRANS AM WS6
try heating it in boiling water for a little wile then put it on hot
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02-22-2010, 10:57 AM #3
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- Apr 2008
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- Madison, WI
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- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
maybe if you trim the fernco shorter it will help pull the lid down. I had do that witth my SLP smooth bellows because the same thing was happening. Its still not exactly right but its better.
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02-22-2010, 12:43 PM #4
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PEWTER- 2001 TRANS AM WS6
+ 1 You will need to trim some off too
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02-22-2010, 12:53 PM #5
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- Aug 2005
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Trim some.
Then microwave.
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02-22-2010, 12:59 PM #6
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TRIPLE BLACK- 2000 CAMARO SS M6 #2100
I told you bro. give me about ten min with it and a utility knife and ill make it fit
HONDAS ARE LIKE TAMPONS... EVERY PUSSY HAS ONE!
**PHK**
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02-22-2010, 01:15 PM #7
Duct tape....
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02-22-2010, 03:10 PM #8
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- Broken Arrow, OK
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- 49
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Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
Trimming it should make it suitable.
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02-22-2010, 04:13 PM #9
Resonater?? You mean the receiver dryer? get rid of it...imho
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02-22-2010, 04:17 PM #10
My SLP smooth bellows is sitting in a garbage bag in my garage...
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02-23-2010, 05:06 AM #11
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- Feb 2008
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- NEW JERSEY
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PEWTER- 2001 TRANS AM WS6
I'll give you a dollar for it
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02-23-2010, 06:58 AM #12
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- Mar 2008
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
I wrestled with it till it was on as far as it could go.... i then tightened the screw clamp like hell so it wouldn't slip off.... i don't see how it can "lift" the lid because the TB is lower than the inlet on the lid. Although since you guys mention it now i'm paranoid and suddenly have the urge to go check it out lolol. I never thought to trim it. It seems snug to me.... I think if there is a clearance issue at the back of my lid i'd just put a foam strip to seal it. then maybe consider snipping the fernco a lil if it looks like it could do any further good.
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02-23-2010, 08:51 AM #13
The problem is that there are two styles of lids. The original lid style was the SLP Blackwing, which is a 2-piece lid (the neck is a separate rubber piece) and the new style, which has the neck molded into the lid.
The newer style offers more clearance (height wise). The older style has interference when you try to use the smooth bellows when sliding it onto the neck. It hits on the bottom side, not allowing the lid to fully seat all the way down...and coming loose over time.
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02-24-2010, 08:48 AM #14
As a former (from the great state of WA.) plumber may I suggest a "no hub" band or "mission" band rather than the fernco. They are used in the installation of cast iron waste systems. You can tell which ones they are because they have a wide metal band around them under their clamps. BUT the metal band comes right off from around them and the rubber used is more plyable with a thinner wall. They are sometimes a little more or less (depending on where you get them) $$$ wise but may serve you better than the thick fernco route. Don't worry about their thickness they are used to hold various sizes of waste water cast iron pipe together. A standard lenth 10 foot peice of cast iron pipe weighs in excess of nearly 100 to 150 lbs depending on manufacturer and wall thickness. So you need not worry about the rubber being tough though it's more plyable than the fernco. They can also be used as a sometimes less expensive alternative to rubber couplings on boosted engines.. Just a thought and my .02..
Ps. "no hub" and "mission" bands are the same thing just called by different names depending on whom you talk to..Last edited by Smittro; 02-24-2010 at 09:00 AM.
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02-24-2010, 12:53 PM #15
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
I agree the fernco is very stiff. i was a bit concerned that engine motion would be enough to pull it free.... so far seems good on my end so what do i know lol. Your idea is interesting and I was unaware of this type of coupling. Perhaps a photo example of this type is in order? I'm quite curious now
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02-24-2010, 01:32 PM #16
Here ya go:
http://www.gpfsupply.com/index~path~...lings.Domestic
The metal covering over the center is just stamped tin foil and just lays under the claps to give the coupling it's ability to hold and upright piece of cast iron pipe and to keep a horizontal pipe strait.. You won't need it for your app..Last edited by Smittro; 02-24-2010 at 01:39 PM.
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02-24-2010, 01:48 PM #17
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
hmm.... looks like that is a 3 inch size. I'm in a bit of a hurry since I have a dinner date to make but if i'm not mistaken the Fernco everyone uses is a 3 1/2 inch size. I might be wrong I don't remember off the top of my head. seems interesting and worth looking into. Fernco is better than paying 60 bucks for some rubber but it's not quite an ideal solution. I'd be willing to move to something better if this is as you say.
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02-24-2010, 01:54 PM #18
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- Nov 2009
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- Jacksonville FL
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TRIPLE BLACK- 2000 CAMARO SS M6 #2100
We or should I say "I", lol, already fixed WS6>SS's problem. just needed a lil finesse from a professional, haha
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02-24-2010, 01:55 PM #19
Last edited by Smittro; 02-24-2010 at 03:33 PM. Reason: sounded arrogent(sp)
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02-24-2010, 01:58 PM #20
In inches 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0 and on up are the standards for waste water pipeing dia..
Last edited by Smittro; 02-24-2010 at 02:09 PM.
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