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SFC Install Tips Needed

This is a discussion on SFC Install Tips Needed within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I will be installing my UMI 2pt tubular bolt in SFCs this weekend by myself. The instructions that come with ...

  1. #1
    NY Representative Vertiviper's Avatar
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    99 Trans Am, M6

    SFC Install Tips Needed

    I will be installing my UMI 2pt tubular bolt in SFCs this weekend by myself.

    The instructions that come with them are sort of vague to say the least.

    I know the car's suspension has to be loaded and the LCAs (one at a time) come off to get the rear on.

    Does anyone have any headache saving tips?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
    1999 z28

    make sure you torque everything to spec and use loc-tite the first time. jack stands on the rear and i used my jack under the k member and rested the front wheels on steel ramps with the jack there for double protection. easy install if done properly. did u order from KY cuz i got mine from there and it had step by step simple intructions

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    Quote Originally Posted by pewterz55 View Post
    make sure you torque everything to spec and use loc-tite the first time. jack stands on the rear and i used my jack under the k member and rested the front wheels on steel ramps with the jack there for double protection. easy install if done properly. did u order from KY cuz i got mine from there and it had step by step simple intructions
    The instructions are for a 3 pt...I was concerned the process may be different.


    What do you have to unbolt in the front?

  4. #4
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
    1999 z28

    i did the 3 point on my car but it should be similar. The only thing you need to unbolt is the rear lcas. and you'll see the holes once you get under the car for the front. you just slide that steel piece up in there and fish the screws through. (if its simialr to the 3 point install). its real easy just ignore the part about bolting it to the center which is only like 2 steps

  5. #5
    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    Medium Red Metallic
    2000 Camaro Z28

    did mine this past weekend, hardest thing was grinding off the paint so I could weld them in. I thought it was a very easy install, although i have a pit so it made getting under it really easy. i used a little PB on the LCA bolts to make it a little easier..
    2000 Z28 M6 125,XXX: SLP lid, K&N, 10.4mm Taylor plug wires, Frost Tune, P&P TB, NGK Iridium plugs, Magnaflow Cat back, BMR SFC's and tower brace, TSP LT's and ORY, LS6 intake, MAC Girdle, UMI LCA's and Panhard, LS7 Clutch Kit, so far..

  6. #6
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
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    man i wish i had a pit. the hardest part for me was jacking the car up lol. once it was up everything fell into place

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    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
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    +1 on putting the front wheels on ramps then put the rear axle on jack stands so that the car is level. Everything else is easy. Did mine in about an hour by myself (wife comes out every so often to make sure I haven't crushed myself). Do be sure to use a torque wrench to get them fully tight. It was a little tricky getting the right angle on the rear bolts and still being able to put some muscle on it but still very doable. I also put a dab of locktite on each bolt just to be sure.

    Steve

  8. #8
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
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    yea torqueing those back bolts was kinda a bitch haha

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    Quote Originally Posted by pewterz55 View Post
    yea torqueing those back bolts was kinda a bitch haha
    I don't have a torque wrench, is it possible to overtighten?

    (I really need to just go and buy a torque wrench already)

  10. #10
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
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    the back are very hard to tighten. depending on how much leverage you can get depends on if you can overtighten or not. id suggest getting a torque wrench. i bought the husky one from home depot, $75 and i use it all the time now that i have one.

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    Member dbrichrider33333's Avatar
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    2002 CETA

    im going to be installing mine soon..would it be a good idea to drive the front up onto ramps and then jack the rear up and slide ramps under the rear tires, so the suspension is fully loaded??

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    Member RedSmokey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbrichrider33333 View Post
    im going to be installing mine soon..would it be a good idea to drive the front up onto ramps and then jack the rear up and slide ramps under the rear tires, so the suspension is fully loaded??
    I would imagine a jackstands on the axle would be just the same? But i could be wrong. I would like to know the same thing as i am about to do some weld in UMI 2pt SFC

  13. #13
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
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    good luck driving up ramps. i couldnt find a pair my car could drive up on. but with the jacks on the axles it will simulate the car being loaded. and remember dont tighten the bolts while the car is up, wait til its on the ground

  14. #14
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    When I jack up the rear end and put boards under the back tires. Do I also need to chuck the wheels when I remove the front of the LCA on each side or will the rear end not move much?

  15. #15
    Member dbrichrider33333's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pewterz55 View Post
    good luck driving up ramps. i couldnt find a pair my car could drive up on. but with the jacks on the axles it will simulate the car being loaded. and remember dont tighten the bolts while the car is up, wait til its on the ground
    might have to use a couple boards to lengthen out the incline a little so it isnt as steep..

  16. #16
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
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    put boards under the back tires? just put the axles on jack stand thats all you need for the rear

  17. #17
    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
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    If you can't drive up on your ramps because they are too steep just jack up the front on each side until you can get the tire on the ramp. For the rear, as long as you have the axle on jack stands (each side of the dif) so that the rear tires are at the same height as the front tires the suspension is loaded and you are ready to install.

    When you disconnect the front bolt of the rear control arm (do this one side at a time only) the rear should not move or will only move a touch. If it moves you can slide your jack under the rear and nudge it back into position. Mine didn't move at all.

    I recommend that you connect the rear of your SFC first then once the bolt is in place with the nut finger tight swing it up and you will be able to accurately align the front bolts with the plate that you have to slide up into the frame.

    Definitely get a torque wrench. Well worth the investment over the years knowing you got it right when you are doing important work.

  18. #18
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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  19. #19
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    Alrighty guys, I think I have pleanty of info here..after this plus i'm installing a pro 5.0 shifter...the car is gonna feel completely different, hopefully!

  20. #20
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    They went in smoothly, tightened everything down to spec..no creeks, no clunks..car handles ALOT better!

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