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  1. #1
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Replaced a DRL Assembly Before...? Step Inside...

    Getting some odds and ends done on my bird and one of the things that absolutely has to be done is the front two running light assembly's and the sockets...I can figure out the sockets, but how do you guys recommend removing the running light assembly/enclosure? I'm guessing I need to go in from the bottom but can anybody give me an idea of what to expect and how difficult this is?

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I have my nose piece off, when I get home I'll snap some pics for you. It will be easier just to remove the nose piece and have freedom to work. Not that hard to do. Just time consuming.

  3. #3
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I have my nose piece off, when I get home I'll snap some pics for you. It will be easier just to remove the nose piece and have freedom to work. Not that hard to do. Just time consuming.
    I was hoping to just remove all the plastic crap below the nose of the car and do it that way but if I have to remove the nose so be it
    2000 Black TA M6 - LT's, ORY, UMI Short Stick, TT2's, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Braided Lines, and Tuned by Vengeance SCCA and Car Show Approved
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  4. #4
    Member TransAmTerry's Avatar
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    02 TransAm Ramair WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by theorangeguy View Post
    I was hoping to just remove all the plastic crap below the nose of the car and do it that way but if I have to remove the nose so be it
    I replaced mine and had them out to work on them a couple times. I never took the nose off. I raised the headlights and removed the trim piece around it for access on top and removed the plastic access panels from the bottom and, at least for me, that was enough space and access to get to them. You should check out the thread about the DRL's - there's some info there too.
    '02 Black RamAir M6--Kooks LTH, Magnaflo, Lowered Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks, Tuned By Frost, K&N & SLP box, Smooth bellows, polished TB, Spohn perf. suspension, shock tower brace. UMI 3point SFC. Front & side splitters w/ canards. American Racing 18" wheels & Mich. Pilot SS titres
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  5. #5
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TransAmTerry View Post
    I replaced mine and had them out to work on them a couple times. I never took the nose off. I raised the headlights and removed the trim piece around it for access on top and removed the plastic access panels from the bottom and, at least for me, that was enough space and access to get to them. You should check out the thread about the DRL's - there's some info there too.
    Just out of curiosity how many screws/bolts held them in?

  6. #6
    Member TransAmTerry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theorangeguy View Post
    Just out of curiosity how many screws/bolts held them in?
    I assume ur talking about the amber ( DRL's ) and not the fog style lights on each side of the front licence tag area. If so I believe there are three screws that hold them in and they aren't the easiest to unscrew for some reason but if I can do it, anyone can !! :-). Definitely check out the DRL thread though, there are some mods that should be done to them b/c of the heat that builds up in them. BTW, have you done anything to your taillights yet ??... another problem area that there are fixes for. .. just sayin'

  7. #7
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TransAmTerry View Post
    I assume ur talking about the amber ( DRL's ) and not the fog style lights on each side of the front licence tag area. If so I believe there are three screws that hold them in and they aren't the easiest to unscrew for some reason but if I can do it, anyone can !! :-). Definitely check out the DRL thread though, there are some mods that should be done to them b/c of the heat that builds up in them. BTW, have you done anything to your taillights yet ??... another problem area that there are fixes for. .. just sayin'
    Yea I'm familiar with all the little Fbody quirks...drill mods for the DRL's, gaskets, rear tail lights leak water, etc etc. When I bought my car it had all of the above and I'm slowly working my way through the list but I have never taken the DRL's out before...I have in a camaro, but not in a Trans Am. I'll search for that DRL thread and take a look at it. Thanks for the info!

  8. #8
    Member TransAmTerry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theorangeguy View Post
    Yea I'm familiar with all the little Fbody quirks...drill mods for the DRL's, gaskets, rear tail lights leak water, etc etc. When I bought my car it had all of the above and I'm slowly working my way through the list but I have never taken the DRL's out before...I have in a camaro, but not in a Trans Am. I'll search for that DRL thread and take a look at it. Thanks for the info!
    I should figure you're up to speed on these cars,, didn't mean to assume less. Taking out those DRL's shouldn't be any problem for you w/o taking the nose off. My car is one of those special ones that has or had every one of those quirks !! It seems the only one I seem to have gotten in front of is replacing the power steering cooler before it took a crap. I installed one of those external coolers on it .. everything else I had to play catch up on.

  9. #9
    Something Diabolical... chuckie669's Avatar
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    2000 C5 Torch Red

    It's been many years but i got all mine on rhino ramps using the access hatch with the headlights raised up for some light from above.

    Get a ratcheting wrench

  10. #10
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    so Pat do you still need pics?

  11. #11
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    so Pat do you still need pics?
    yea if you dont mind since you already have the front bumper off...knowing where this stuff is and where the screws are wouldnt hurt lol

  12. #12
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM
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    Replacing the housing should only involve opening the lower plastic access door under the car (two 10mm bolts I believe),then the housing itself should have a couple screws (7mm maybe?) after removing the socket. The housing will lift upwards out of the bumper cover, but you should be able to bring it down through the access doors. Worst cast scenario, you may have to remove the headlight trim and come up in front of the headlight. I would recommend converting to LED bulbs if you plan on having the car for years to come. Due to the heat of the incandescents, I've changed the housings on both TA's I own, and the incandescent bulbs too many times to count.

  13. #13
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GULLETT17 View Post
    Replacing the housing should only involve opening the lower plastic access door under the car (two 10mm bolts I believe),then the housing itself should have a couple screws (7mm maybe?) after removing the socket. The housing will lift upwards out of the bumper cover, but you should be able to bring it down through the access doors. Worst cast scenario, you may have to remove the headlight trim and come up in front of the headlight. I would recommend converting to LED bulbs if you plan on having the car for years to come. Due to the heat of the incandescents, I've changed the housings on both TA's I own, and the incandescent bulbs too many times to count.
    I've considered LED but I'm not sure I want to replace the factory flasher...I could I guess.

  14. #14
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM
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    Quote Originally Posted by theorangeguy View Post
    I've considered LED but I'm not sure I want to replace the factory flasher...I could I guess.
    Not a big deal either. Less than 15 bucks, plug and go.

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