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Ram Air Hood really functional?

This is a discussion on Ram Air Hood really functional? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I was trying to determine how functional the OEM "Ram Air" hood really is. Have you looked at it? The ...

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    Lord God King Bufu Raven98Z28's Avatar
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    Angry Ram Air Hood really functional?

    I was trying to determine how functional the OEM "Ram Air" hood really is. Have you looked at it? The air goes in the nostrils, changes direction no less than twice before entering the engine compartment and then doesn't really line up that well in my opinion to the slot at the lower airbox. I was like WTF? Functional my ass. I just can't believe that this is very functional as is. If it was, w/ the WS6 should have picked up more HP than it was factory rated at.

    The Free Ram Air mod I did to my 98 Z28 was WAY functional. Especially after I lowered the car and the airdam was nearly scraping the ground. At high speed, I could tell the HP was increasing: The faster I went, the more the air pressure built up under my air filter and the more air was pushed into my motor. WOOT!

    I was thinking about cutting the redirecting plastic vanes out of the nostrils... and also using some rubber to seal the aribox to the hood. Has anyone done this or thought about doing it?
    THEN: 98 Z28 A4 2.73 FRA STB SFCs LCA Relocators LowSprings DAPHR SLPBilsteins Descr.MAF EGRCut-off Lid Eradispeeds - Daily Driver includ. 3 yrs on the German Autobahn!
    NOW: '02 WS6 M6 LOTB BMR STB, SLP bolt-in SFCs, !spare/jack, !rearseat, SLP lid, Battery Relocation

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    yes, you can fabricate a little sealbetween the nostrils and the airbox with some 1/2 or 3/4" weather strip.

    i might have to do this "free ram air mod" to my ws.6

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    Member TROYWS6X's Avatar
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    more of a "cold air induction" then "ram air"

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    Member my1973form's Avatar
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    I read this at Firehawk.org Site on RAM AIR thought I'd share.

    As a newby, you are entitled to have all your questions answered, so I'll offer up an answer. This site is searchable and you can find previous discourses on almost any topic, including the "Ram Air" discussion.
    Please pardon a short (well, maybe not!) lesson on 'Ram Air'. I teach Aerodynamics as related to aviation induction systems, so I have at least a bit of experience and research to back this up: No scoop (stock or otherwise) set-up on any street car has ever shown a noticeable benefit to the production of more power. All benefits (if any) come from the temperature reduction (read this as density) of the air the engine then mixes with fuel and burns. A tiny (almost unmeasureable) increase in manifold pressure starts at about 100 MPH only IF the forward-facing 'scoop(s)' are located in a position to accept non-disturbed air. which generally is not possible. A cowl induction sytem (at the base of the windshield) is better than the typical Pontiac forward-facing inlets for maximizing the cooler air flow into the engine. The stock 98-02 Firehawk hood inlets use a 'particle separator' in the form of those black plastic vanes, to remove stones, birds and small children from the intake flow. Removing these will allow rain, snow and dirt to clog the actual air filter. There is no advantage at any usual road speeds to removal of those vanes. The turns in the hood leading to the plenum (air filter lid) are there to provide a smooth flow of reasonably clean (cool) air. A direct 'ram' of air into the induction sytem would only allow dirtier air into the induction system, with no pressure rise to help 'supercharge' the engine. I hope you read this far, and now you can watch the inevitable flood of 'pro Ram Air' people posting their views!
    Black Robe

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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    i have no idea what you said after this line b/c i was Laughing my fucking ASS off!

    Quote Originally Posted by my1973form
    The stock 98-02 Firehawk hood inlets use a 'particle separator' in the form of those black plastic vanes, to remove stones, birds and small children from the intake flow.

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    Lord God King Bufu Raven98Z28's Avatar
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    ok... I gotta partially agree and partially disagree w/ him. I would agree that the Ram Air nostrils do not offer any appreciable gain in HP - because they are not functional.

    I have to disagree that there is no way to have a functional Ram Air because I KNOW from experience that when you're driving 100mph+ on the German Autobahn w/ a lowered Z28 and the Airdam is like 1" from the ground, the air that gets trapped under my nose has no where to go but up and either through the radiator or through the free-flowing K&N filter into my aftermarket lid, de-screened MAF, and so forth. Since it only produces gains at high velocity, not high RPM, the mod doesn't prove itself on a Dyno unless you Dyno it in a wind tunnel which replicates the speed your rear wheels are driving. I started noticing gains I could feel at about 70mph-unlikely to show much change in an 1/8th but maybe worth a tenth in a 1/4 mile. It is, however definitely worth seeing the faces of snooty Porsche owners when a $25k ABC (American Barbarian Car) blows the doors off of their $80k GPCs (German Precision Cars) on the German Autobahn.

    I think the Ram Air Hood would be a LITTLE more functional without the baffles. Dirtier, yes. But hey... that's what the air filter is for, right? Unlike a stock filter which you discard and replace when dirty, the K&N can be cleaned as often as you like.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven98Z28 View Post
    ok... I gotta partially agree and partially disagree w/ him. I would agree that the Ram Air nostrils do not offer any appreciable gain in HP - because they are not functional.

    I have to disagree that there is no way to have a functional Ram Air because I KNOW from experience that when you're driving 100mph+ on the German Autobahn w/ a lowered Z28 and the Airdam is like 1" from the ground, the air that gets trapped under my nose has no where to go but up and either through the radiator or through the free-flowing K&N filter into my aftermarket lid, de-screened MAF, and so forth. Since it only produces gains at high velocity, not high RPM, the mod doesn't prove itself on a Dyno unless you Dyno it in a wind tunnel which replicates the speed your rear wheels are driving. I started noticing gains I could feel at about 70mph-unlikely to show much change in an 1/8th but maybe worth a tenth in a 1/4 mile. It is, however definitely worth seeing the faces of snooty Porsche owners when a $25k ABC (American Barbarian Car) blows the doors off of their $80k GPCs (German Precision Cars) on the German Autobahn.

    I think the Ram Air Hood would be a LITTLE more functional without the baffles. Dirtier, yes. But hey... that's what the air filter is for, right? Unlike a stock filter which you discard and replace when dirty, the K&N can be cleaned as often as you like.
    Some holes in your theories here like the fact that the K&N filter gives you 0 gains. Been proven time and time again at the track, not the dyno.

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Some holes in your theories here like the fact that the K&N filter gives you 0 gains. Been proven time and time again at the track, not the dyno.

    Its a proven fact that a K&N filter flows better than a paper element, better track times of not.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Its a proven fact that a K&N filter flows better than a paper element, better track times of not.
    If that were true there would be gains, which there are non.

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    If that were true there would be gains, which there are non.
    Just because it doesn't produce a measurable gain at the track doesn't mean there isn't a difference.

    A K&N filter is good for about 2-5HP over a paper filter, so even though its not very significant and won't necessarily produce measurably better track times, its still a difference.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    It also lets dirtier air in your engine, fits like poop and costs 5X as much.

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    Member stangereater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven98Z28 View Post
    I was trying to determine how functional the OEM "Ram Air" hood really is. Have you looked at it? The air goes in the nostrils, changes direction no less than twice before entering the engine compartment and then doesn't really line up that well in my opinion to the slot at the lower airbox. I was like WTF? Functional my ass. I just can't believe that this is very functional as is. If it was, w/ the WS6 should have picked up more HP than it was factory rated at.

    The Free Ram Air mod I did to my 98 Z28 was WAY functional. Especially after I lowered the car and the airdam was nearly scraping the ground. At high speed, I could tell the HP was increasing: The faster I went, the more the air pressure built up under my air filter and the more air was pushed into my motor. WOOT!

    I was thinking about cutting the redirecting plastic vanes out of the nostrils... and also using some rubber to seal the aribox to the hood. Has anyone done this or thought about doing it?
    You can drill one of the pieces out and put a strip of weatherstripping to help seal it. Like I did then it's fully functional.

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    Lord God King Bufu Raven98Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Some holes in your theories here like the fact that the K&N filter gives you 0 gains. Been proven time and time again at the track, not the dyno.
    ah hah! A clean K&N flows much more air than a clean stock filter at the same amount of vacuum. As for fit, I just installed my 2nd K&N and noticed no problem with either of them. Don't forget to install the seal that comes with every box. And there's a cool K&N display which lets you change out a K&N for a stock-type filter and watch the ping-pong ball go from top of the tube to the bottom when you change it out, representing a change in air flow. Has anyone seen this? If you did, you'd probably be convinced there's SOME gain to it.

    As for "proven at the track"

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven98Z28 View Post
    ah hah! A clean K&N flows much more air than a clean stock filter at the same amount of vacuum. As for fit, I just installed my 2nd K&N and noticed no problem with either of them. Don't forget to install the seal that comes with every box. And there's a cool K&N display which lets you change out a K&N for a stock-type filter and watch the ping-pong ball go from top of the tube to the bottom when you change it out, representing a change in air flow. Has anyone seen this? If you did, you'd probably be convinced there's SOME gain to it.

    As for "proven at the track"
    Man you are light years behind in your info. This is old, old news. Read an air filter test and get your facts straight. Better yet, do a search on LS1 tech and see what the fast guys use.

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    " Inmy01ta " Why Are You Hating On The K&n Filter ? It Makes Ur Car Run More Efficiantly!!!!! My Friends 3000gt Makes A Huge Gain Since It Was Boosted. And K&n Stands By There Product 10 Fold, A Better Breathing Car Is Happy Car!!!!!!!!!

    Oh And About The Ram Air Nostrils, I Cut Both Air Baffles And U Could Tell A Difference. Plus At The Same Time I Did A Tb Bypass, Descreeneed & Port And Polished The Maf Housing, Made A Custom Smooth Bellows, And Last Modifed The Egr. All In Tha Same Day!
    So I Had Huge Difference !!!!!

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    Junior Member timowen1's Avatar
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    2 things. about 5 years ago I was in a custom car parts store in Dayton, Oh and they had an air filter test box that had a small fan that blew air into it and had a ping pong ball in it kind of floating around. The air being blown into the box was exiting out a small plastic verticle tube. When you removed this small standard paper filter about 6 x 6 the ball would just fall to the bottom of the box. When the paper filter was replaced with a K & N filter the ball shot straight up into the top of the exit tube. This said to me that K & N does flow more air. If you keep it properly cleaned and oiled it will trap more dirt.
    If the ram air WS6 is not working as advertised then why does it have 15 more HP than a non WS6? I do not think there is anything different in the engine from one car to the other.
    just my 2 cents

  18. #18
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    what size weatherstripping are you guys using to seal the hood to the lid? Cause im gonna do it!

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timowen1 View Post
    2 things. about 5 years ago I was in a custom car parts store in Dayton, Oh and they had an air filter test box that had a small fan that blew air into it and had a ping pong ball in it kind of floating around. The air being blown into the box was exiting out a small plastic verticle tube. When you removed this small standard paper filter about 6 x 6 the ball would just fall to the bottom of the box. When the paper filter was replaced with a K & N filter the ball shot straight up into the top of the exit tube. This said to me that K & N does flow more air. If you keep it prperly cleaned and oiled it will trap more dirt.
    If the ram air WS6 is not working as advertised then why does it have 15 more HP than a non WS6? I do not think there is anything different in the engine from one car to the other.
    just my 2 cents
    K&N might be good at floating ping pong balls but doesn't give your car any more horsepower. It does let dirtier air in your engine tho. The WS6 does not have an extra 15 horse power either. This is all fact, not fiction.

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    Junior Member timowen1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    K&N might be good at floating ping pong balls but doesn't give your car any more horsepower. It does let dirtier air in your engine tho. The WS6 does not have an extra 15 horse power either. This is all fact, not fiction.
    Gm. advertised WS6 at 325 HP and the non WS6 at 310 in 2001 and 2002. I may be old and never learned the "new" math taught in school today but 325 minus 310 was 15. At least 35 years ago it was

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