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Quickest & Cheapest Way to 500 rwhp?!?!?

This is a discussion on Quickest & Cheapest Way to 500 rwhp?!?!? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by Mr. Luos Why everyone got to point it out to me?...

  1. #61
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Why everyone got to point it out to me?

  2. #62
    Member Since 1998 Mecinoid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinmc978 View Post
    i think nitrous is like renting somthing, i'd rather buy a mod that doesnt just 'run out' and then i need to buy more

    I didn't like the idea that I had to drive 50 miles to refill the bottle each time.
    If I had a refill station within 5 mile of my house. I would have NOS'd my car a number of years back. Had all the pieces dirt cheap. After thinking about what I was actually doing I sold it all for a profit and saved for the SC.
    However, I know I could have built the motor cheaper.

    Problem is I still wanted to be street legal / smoggable. Only way to do that was SC'd
    Plus when I SC'd and intercooled the knock index went down and no worries about that
    anymore. ;-)

    So, that ended up being the cheapest way to go for me.

    Harden the tranny, $2K of suspension / rear end work, and SC... your done.

    Add a couple grand for wider meat /slicks and you have a great ride.

    Over 500 HP you want to start thinking about stronger cranks etc... I think ours are reliable to ~ 600HP
    Last edited by Mecinoid; 12-10-2009 at 01:26 AM.

  3. #63
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    sold: 1999 firebird
    1998 Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by Mecinoid View Post
    I didn't like the idea that I had to drive 50 miles to refill the bottle each time.
    If I had a refill station within 5 mile of my house. I would have NOS'd my car a number of years back. Had all the pieces dirt cheap. After thinking about what I was actually doing I sold it all for a profit and saved for the SC.
    However, I know I could have built the motor cheaper.

    Problem is I still wanted to be street legal / smoggable. Only way to do that was SC'd
    Plus when I SC'd and intercooled the knock index went down and no worries about that
    anymore. ;-)

    So, that ended up being the cheapest way to go for me.

    Harden the tranny, $2K of suspension / rear end work, and SC... your done.

    Add a couple grand for wider meat /slicks and you have a great ride.

    Over 500 HP you want to start thinking about stronger cranks etc... I think ours are reliable to ~ 600HP
    again, make your plans, measure twice, and do it right the first time. best way to save money

  4. #64
    Member Since 1998 Mecinoid's Avatar
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    '98,'00 Bird '03, 14 Vets

    Quote Originally Posted by justinmc978 View Post
    again, make your plans, measure twice, and do it right the first time. best way to save money
    He's right about that ...

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mecinoid View Post
    I didn't like the idea that I had to drive 50 miles to refill the bottle each time.
    If I had a refill station within 5 mile of my house. I would have NOS'd my car a number of years back. Had all the pieces dirt cheap. After thinking about what I was actually doing I sold it all for a profit and saved for the SC.
    However, I know I could have built the motor cheaper.

    Problem is I still wanted to be street legal / smoggable. Only way to do that was SC'd
    Plus when I SC'd and intercooled the knock index went down and no worries about that
    anymore. ;-)

    So, that ended up being the cheapest way to go for me.

    Harden the tranny, $2K of suspension / rear end work, and SC... your done.

    Add a couple grand for wider meat /slicks and you have a great ride.

    Over 500 HP you want to start thinking about stronger cranks etc... I think ours are reliable to ~ 600HP
    Stronger cranks? The crank can hold alot more than 600hp, its the other internals you need to worry about.

  6. #66
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    blacker than wesleysnipes
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zinergy View Post
    Stronger cranks? The crank can hold alot more than 600hp, its the other internals you need to worry about.
    you beat me to it.

  7. #67
    Member herculesrider1's Avatar
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    poor Mr. Luos!!! Can't get a break, can he???!!!!
    Last edited by herculesrider1; 12-10-2009 at 10:19 AM.

  8. #68
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    2001 trans am

    interesting thread. im subscribing to this 1

  9. #69
    Member Since 1998 Mecinoid's Avatar
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    '98,'00 Bird '03, 14 Vets

    So are we saying that the motor internally should be able to handle 600 HP and then rods and pistons are issues? What are we talking about here? I was told by my the builder crank was the weak link. Maybe he was just suggesting a crank in my case. ???? Maybe he figured with all that I plan to do I'll eventually need it.

    I figured my next step was a cam, rods, pistons and a good set heads.
    Last edited by Mecinoid; 12-12-2009 at 02:19 AM.

  10. #70
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    There is no set number of HP for how long a stock motor will last. Mostly in the tune, but set-up plays a big role.


    The crank is NOT the weak link.
    Dan is running the stock one...and has seen 800+ on the dyno.

  11. #71
    Member Since 1998 Mecinoid's Avatar
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    '98,'00 Bird '03, 14 Vets

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    There is no set number of HP for how long a stock motor will last. Mostly in the tune, but set-up plays a big role.


    The crank is NOT the weak link.
    Dan is running the stock one...and has seen 800+ on the dyno.
    Thanks, I think I'd rather just put the money into heads, rods, pistons, pins, and connecting bolts etc... The bolts, pins and rods should add some strength. All nicely balanced and a blueprint job might help some.

  12. #72
    Next... MrKid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mecinoid View Post
    Thanks, I think I'd rather just put the money into heads, rods, pistons, pins, and connecting bolts etc... The bolts, pins and rods should add some strength. All nicely balanced and a blueprint job might help some.
    Definately on the right track. Bolts can cause you problems more than the carnk. It's hard to put a failure hp number on any internal part. The number of factors involved like compression, rpm, crank case pressure, oil system, etc. all factor into how long a part will last.

  13. #73
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    There is no set number of HP for how long a stock motor will last. Mostly in the tune, but set-up plays a big role.


    The crank is NOT the weak link.
    Dan is running the stock one...and has seen 800+ on the dyno.
    i miss dan..i still need to come out to CO and see you guys.

  14. #74
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    i miss dan..i still need to come out to CO and see you guys.
    He is still a sarcastic bastard, but it is all in the name of funny. His car is still mean as hell.
    Drove to the track 100 miles...went 11.40 or so. Drove home 100 miles. Not too bad for Nitto DR's and almost 4000 pounds.

    I am so damn busy lately...feel free to come on out here though.

  15. #75
    Junior Member ws6freek's Avatar
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    D-1SC Procharger. Thats what I put on my car and it makes 450 to the ground.

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