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07-18-2017, 11:54 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jul 2017
- Location
- Rhode Island
- Posts
- 1
Black- 2001 Pontiac Trans Am
questions an advise for a new owner
Hey everyone,
I'm a new owner to a 2001 Trans Am...bone stock for now. Kinda learning as I go type thing
Bran new to the site and I'm looking for some info on where I can fin someone who does the fuel rail covers. I have seen some real nice ones on line. I just spoke with the woman at afterthoughts and they are not doing them any longer.
As green as I am with cars I seem to want to focus all of my attention on the engine bay and make it look all shiney, new and cool. I am a man without direction. I don't want to me ridiculous like chrome everything, things like I think a tower brace would be cool looking, but due I really need it. Getting a CAT back exhaust (which one by the why, who is better than who) is it worth it for just the sound (that really all I want),
Thanks
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07-18-2017, 12:10 PM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,764
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Welcome - Only dumb question here is the one not asked. We have a help and tech sticky threads in the General Help section that should answer a lot of potential question or mods.
FRC's - you can pick up a set of C5 FRC's off of ebay or even on some of the forums. I trimmed mine, filled in the corvette and prep & painted them. Not to difficult to do. Just takes a few hours of work and materials.
Tower Brace - Needed no, not unless you plan on autoX or open road track racing. Does it help - debatable, I have one on mine. But mine is a custom piece now. If Photobucket wasn't holding my pics hostage I would show you.
EmblemPros has some nice engine dress up stuff that doesn't kill the bank. I and a few others here have their stuff. They will also do some custom pieces sometimes depending on what you're looking for.
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07-19-2017, 11:55 AM #3
Bolt on's are an affordable way to get good sounds, power, and even appearance. In regards to a cat back exhaust. It will sound good but you'll also gain a little more oomph. Strut tower braces I have noticed a difference. It tightens the front end but unless you're doing autox or big into track days, not really a big performance boost. I don't run one personally because I have no room due to my setup. A new lid if it hasn't been done will dramatically change the appearance of your engine bay. You replace the stock airbox and silencer and you'll see a difference and notice it as well. Vendors sell dress up items and under hood mirrors and it's all nice dress up stuff and cool to do. But Lid and a catback are pretty standard bolts ons. Also look up the Engine Wire Loom Delete (Hide). That on always cleans up the engine bay nice and it's free to do just takes a little know how and elbow grease.
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07-19-2017, 12:21 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Indiana
- Posts
- 1
black- 2001 Pontiac Formula
In my opinion, the first mods need to be a strut tower brace and sub-frame connectors. Whatever performance mods you throw at in the future, the car needs to be tightened up. Those were the first 2 mods I did and now with 400 rwhp, I don't have a rattle or squeak in the car. Cat back, go to your local muffler shop and have them change out the muffler for a Flowmaster. Save some money and don't buy any exhaust pipes you don't need. Cold air induction next. Unless you already have a Ws6, look at SLP's cold air induction kit that fits in front of the radiator. Keeps that stealth look. I have a couple of FRC in black that I'm looking to sell. They need a little touch up after 15 years if you're interested.
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07-19-2017, 01:08 PM #5
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,764
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
That's one bolt on I highly discourage. Our cars are bottom air feeders. Meaning the flow of air comes from the the underside of the nose, it is deflected up by the air dam then across the radiator and then into the air filter and into the intake. What that kit does is makes a ramp that if you hit a puddle chances are you'll hydrolock the motor. I've heard the arguments "I'll never drive in rain" or I'll go slow if I come across a puddle."
It's you car, do as you like, just a friendly warning on something that IMHO gives zero gains. Doing the air lid mod gives you the same if not better flow over that kit and it's free.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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07-19-2017, 02:56 PM #6
Free air mod is great to do and like SMW says the chances of hydrolocking is there with the ram kit unless you have a WS6 and can get the old BGRA mod with the rain baffles. But all the free mod involves is cutting plastic to allow a little more air to the filter. I do agree with the SFC's. I have a set welded in and it has saved my ass. I can argue for the Strut tower brace because it looks good and if you do get one, get a 3 point and they are fairly inexpensive. But figure out what direction you want to go with your car. Showcar, handling, or raw HP. Personally I can't take turns anymore. I have an AWD DD for that and the WS6 is for fast merging onto the freeway. But if you decide to one day go big and want the engine bay bling, may I suggest FI and lots of shiny pipes
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07-20-2017, 05:17 AM #7
Wow that's a lot of piping. What setup is that? All my piping is down low.
Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkBoost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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07-20-2017, 09:22 AM #8
Vortech Y trim. Procharger mounts down low and VOrtech mounts on top. Whole setup was custom done. It was a pain in the ass! But using a custom bracket from RMCR and the intercooler setup was pieced together. Had to find one with the tanks on the same side so went with a Treadstone intercooler. Pieced together the pipes from a CX racing pipe kit and had to sourced a couple step down silicone joints and a special aluminum elbow reducer pipe. Inlet side to blower is 4" piping and the rest is 3.5". It was fun to make and took a while but well worth it in the end!
98 WS6 M6 ASC #2647
Forged Custom 408 w/Vortec YSi
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07-20-2017, 11:28 AM #9
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Bel Air, Maryland
- Posts
- 1,682
Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
While I am in agreement with the others, the first "mod" I would do is to make sure everything is in shop shape, especially on the underside; such as mounts and especially shocks, springs and bushings, if you have worn out rubber/plastic, all of the bolt-ons in the world aren't going help much.
If you got worn out suspension prices, (and bushings) replace them with UMI's parts, you'll noti e the difference, and its quality stuff!
As far as the strut tower brace goes, I think the benefit comes when there's a lot of weaving, and if I remember right UMI's STB goes for about $75.00.
I'd also invest in a PCV oil catch can.SLP Air Lid/Smooth Bellows
L76 6.0L block, PRC Ported 243 heads, Texas Speed 224R cam.
Kooks Emissions LT Headers/Catted Y pipe
NGK TR55 plugs
Magnaflow Cat-back
Spohn Front Upper Tubular Control Arms
UMI Front Lower Tubular Control Arms
UMI Front Sway Bar
UMI Rear Lower Control Arms/ Adjustable Panhard Rod
UMI Welded-on Two Piece Subframe Connectors
Factory C5 Z06 17x9.5 wheels w/ 285-40-17 Continental Extreme Contact Sports all the way around.
Dyno Dynamics dynoed @:
415 rwhp
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07-21-2017, 07:46 AM #10
My input:
1. Look the car over really well. Pay attention to wiring.
2. Change all fluids, period. All of them.
3. If the tires are in good shape, make sure they're aired up to the proper pressure rating.
4. Change the spark plugs and wires unless you're certain it was just done and they look new.
5. Check the air filter and replace if necessary.
6. Change the fuel filter. Cheap insurance.
7. Now that the car is road worthy, you can start looking at upgrades.
8. Subframe connectors.
9. Exhaust (catback)
10. Go from there depending on your goals and budget.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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