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PlZ help

This is a discussion on PlZ help within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; okay so i just drove it around the block to see how she was acting.when the rpms were at like ...

  1. #21
    "The Snake Skinner" Smokaholik's Avatar
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    okay so i just drove it around the block to see how she was acting.when the rpms were at like 2000-2500 it had pressure at 40 n when i would slow down to like 1000 it drop to 20 n when i speed up to bout 3000 pressure would rise a lil. but its def knocking or ticking(pretty loud imo) all the time. so i guess i wont drive her. Now how deep intern ally am im going to have to go to fix her? anyone and everbody plz whats the best way bout getting her Fixed?

  2. #22
    "The Snake Skinner" Smokaholik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9T8W66 View Post
    First check your oil if t's milky looking, then there is coolant in it and you have problems. Probably a head gasket like said before.
    But if the oils good then pull the coil packs off and remove the valve covers.
    start on one side and remove the rockers so you can pull the push rods out.
    Inspect each one for gouges and bends (roll them on a piece of Glass or something very flat). If any are bent replace them all reinstall and see it that solves the problem. (please be sure to follow direction in a manual for correct torque sequence and keep the same rockers in the same positions)
    Personally I replaced all of mine and have had zero issues since, but I broke one in half and that was the bad ticking I heard. I've actually driven for a couple yrs on bent pushrods with no issues either since they never really made any noise until one finally broke on a 2nd gear powershift.
    K oil pressure seems fine so whats a good estimate on labor to pull coils, remove the valvecovers, n pull the rockers? i Dont have to pull the engine out to do all the work do i?

  3. #23
    now greybat66
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    you dont have to pull the engine but like u said the valve covers coils etc have to get valvetrain components replaced .

  4. #24
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    You need a repair manual first
    But heres a link to a write up I used for the pushrod replacement it's for a `98 model year but other then the different coilpack mounting and centerbolt valve covers on later years it's the same.
    http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/pus...andreplace.htm

    Wasn't hard and doesn't require any special tools took me and my Dad about 3 hrs and we took out time. Also cleaned things up.
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  5. #25
    "The Snake Skinner" Smokaholik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9T8W66 View Post
    You need a repair manual first
    But heres a link to a write up I used for the pushrod replacement it's for a `98 model year but other then the different coilpack mounting and centerbolt valve covers on later years it's the same.
    http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/pus...andreplace.htm

    Wasn't hard and doesn't require any special tools took me and my Dad about 3 hrs and we took out time. Also cleaned things up.
    k ya thx. figured since i mpulling the valvecovers off any way just going ahead and getting some aftermarket 1.8 rockers and maybee some valve springs? How much would labor usually run for a job like this?

  6. #26
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    JMO but Rockers are a waste unless you never plan to do a cam upgrade. And you must do springs for the rocker upgrade anyway so why not just do a cam instead is my philosphy.
    Anyway I do all my own work so I don't have a clue what the job would cost, but I do know it won't be cheap.
    Either way I wish you luck

  7. #27
    "The Snake Skinner" Smokaholik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9T8W66 View Post
    JMO but Rockers are a waste unless you never plan to do a cam upgrade. And you must do springs for the rocker upgrade anyway so why not just do a cam instead is my philosphy.
    Anyway I do all my own work so I don't have a clue what the job would cost, but I do know it won't be cheap.
    Either way I wish you luck
    Thx man i appreciate it. thats kind of what i was thinking. Did you have to pull the engine to put the cam in?

  8. #28
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    No the engine does not have to be pulled.
    You really need to address the other issue before you start thinking about cam swaps or any other internal work. Concentrate on getting it back to normal then worry about adding power.

  9. #29
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
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    How many miles on the car?
    What would be a good set of pushrods? I wanna do mine too before I bust one

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9T8W66 View Post
    No the engine does not have to be pulled.
    You really need to address the other issue before you start thinking about cam swaps or any other internal work. Concentrate on getting it back to normal then worry about adding power.
    Very true! thx funds are limited anyway, was jus thinking will i had her all open jus going ahead and doing what i was going to do to her anyway jus earlier than expected. so better rockers are pretty much a waste of money unless i get new cam basically right?

  11. #31
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    Chromoly Pushrods will do 7.4" is the length.

    And any Rockers over 1.7 ratio will add lift and there for require a valve spring change. I and many others would prefer to do a Cam swap over rockers, esp. if your looking for a substantial power gain.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplebat66 View Post
    i know for a fact you should not drive it. You could end up messing up your pistons and its not worth it also when you fix it you have to go over the whole valvetrain, make sure you change everything or it could happen again.
    Thx everyone!!! ya im absolutely not going to drive here jus going to get a car trailor n open here up. So i should just replace everything over the whole valvetrain or jus whats broken? Also prob suspect i spun a bearing to bc of my oil pressure. but she idles at 40 ps1

  13. #33
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    Negative to replacing everything, if it's just bent or broken push rods then just replace them. But, when you change the oil look for needle bearing on the drainplug magnet, if you find any you may need new Rockers.

    Also if the noise persists after the pushrod swap you may have a bent valve.
    When you get the valve covers off you'll know more look for broken valve springs aswell.

  14. #34
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
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    How many miles on the car? IF you have like 100+ that may be why you have the oil pressure a bit low.. but nothing to worry about.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9T8W66 View Post
    I had blown a shift and afterwards when cold you could hear a ticking that would lessen to the point of being almost gone. I attribute the tick to the extra play in the Lifter before the oil flow pumped them up. like I said I actually drove the car a couple years this way but snapped a pushrod while powershifting onto the freeway.



    Idle pressure at 20psi isn't a problem (mine sits around 25 when hot) the question is what is the pressure at around 2-2500 rpm.
    I actually drove my car for 2 months with the broken pushrod. Used it for work only and kept the rpm below 2500 as much as possible. If you do have a broken pushrod like I suspect you'll need a pen magnet with a 5/16 size head to get down in lifter area to get the broken part out.

    I would not drive it, your better off getting everything apart and going from there. Even if you replace the pushrods that doesn't mean it's fixed. Also make sure you change the oil minimum pressure is 6psi @ 1000 18psi @ 2000 and 24psi @ 4000.

    Be smart, like I said just because I drove mine successfully doesn't mean you will.

    Also for anyone concerned with the fact I drove on bent and a broken pushrods. The engine (and car for that matter) have been trouble free
    The pushrods were done with approx 93K on the clock, at 109K she dynoed 300 HP 322 TQ at the wheels with a lid and 3" Flowmaster SOTL catback.
    Car currently sits at 133k and still runs through the Original clutch.
    K so i drove her bout 10 miles to my dads shop kept her under 2500 rpms n she drove just fine jus ticked the whole way there. had some real good mechanics listen to her n they truly believe i jus messed up a rocker bc its not a knock but a tick tick. some im somewhat happy for now thx everyone for advice. has anyone here jus messed up a rocker or is it usually a rocker n pr that gets jacked when overreved?

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