Picked up a 2001 Trans Am...general questions

**cascade** · 01-19-2006, 08:00 PM

I picked up a 2001 Black WS6 Trans Am M6 last month. It has 48,000 miles on it now. I've replaced the air filter with a K&N so far. Everything runs very nicely, I love everything except for the gas mileage it's getting right now (15mpg). I drive 95% city driving and almost always am under 2,000 rpm. I'm wondering if there are any simple things I should check or replace that could increase this. Also in general, what are some things I should be looking to replace now that the car is coming up on the 50,000 mile mark? Other than that, I only have a few other small complaints. When I brake above 50mph or so, the entire car seems to shake a little bit. Someone said something about "warped rotors," but I'm not quite sure what could be the problem. Also, when I start the car up when it is cold, giving it gas makes the car make a crackly noise that doesn't sound good. If I wait 30 seconds or so, its gone and I'm fine. Other than that, I'm loving the car, and would appreciate any suggestions for the problems I described. This spring I'd also like to consider modifying it a bit. However, I don't yet want to spend too much, as I'm 17 and headed to college next year. Any cheap mods that add a noticeable performance/convenience/comfort/whatever gain would be appreciated.

Oh, and of course...a few pictures

**MdFormula350** · 01-20-2006, 12:14 AM

I would do an oil change and run recommended oil 5w-30 or 10w-30, not sure what u have now

you said u replaced the air filter did the mpg increase at all?

I try to let my car warm up a few minutes so thats why i never drive it when i am lin a hurry because i dont want to rush it, i have a thing of for letting my engines warm up a tad before driving just to get the oil alittle warm, and i go easy on it untill it fully warms up.

I would do a fuel filter maybe also, make sure to run 91+ octane fuel also.

Might be time to check the plugs and wires also, but thats somewhat hard so i would do that last in the tune up.

Nice looking WS6, i think i have seen u on ls1tech also.

**PontiacFan** · 01-20-2006, 05:55 AM

Shakes & wobbles when braking almost always points toward the 'warped rotors' syndrome. Depending on how many times they been turned already, you will be able to get rid of it temporarily by having them turned again.
If I were you, I'd be looking at buying some new rotors. Costs depending on what you decide to go with, will be between $150-400-800+. You could get by, by finding some inexpensive replacement front rotors at your local parts store.
15mpg is terrible. There may be something up, or you've got a heavy foot, ...
Was the car modded before you got it, & then returned to stock?!?
The cold start-up issue I'd be extremely careful with. If by chance it has the dreaded piston slap, (Known problem in the earlier LS1's,...), it could mean expensive repairs. No way would I be revving it up during start-up. Let it idle comfortably for a couple minutes if possible. And of course it could be something simpler also. It will probably require a good mechanic to diagnose something like that.
The K&N isn't all it's talked up to be also. Be careful not to over-oil it. Oil on the MAF willl give poor results. (As in tuning & mileage related.)
Good Luck, ..., great car, ..., but be careful & respect the power, ..., don't be a nother statistic.

**third_shift|studios** · 01-20-2006, 06:06 AM

not bad for a 17 y/o!!! be good to it and it'll be good to you.
A few quick and noticable mods both for you and onlookers [price includes installs]
-Exhaust [$400 +] or a cut out [about $100]; instant "wow" factor and also lets the engine breath better; results in better MPG
-Tuning [$275ish] this should be done after exhaust, but can be done before hand, (it's just a waste of money). Tuning will clear out all the stupid codes and help free up HorsePower and MPG

you said you are light on cash, those are rather economical start offs. Congrads on the car. The rotors are deffinatly the issue of your brakes though...maybe get them re cut. I suggest cross posting this to the "general" help section to get more diagnosis.

you may have some liquid or residue in your current exhuast pipes: when my engine heads came off, a lot of coolant fell down the exhaust. When i start it up and get moving i get a lot of pops and gurgles until the engine is fully warmed up. I think "time" is the only way to fix that...or get a completely new custom exhaust fabricated [$1500 ish]

**Sink** · 01-20-2006, 10:25 AM

Check your tire pressure. If your air balance is off somewhat that may also be a factor.

**4get gto** · 01-20-2006, 03:47 PM

Good looking car.....
what part of pa. you from cascade ?

lee1rbc · 01-20-2006, 04:08 PM

The crackling noise? If the exhaust noise happens during the rev I would be a little worried, but if the noise happens after the rev when the rpms are dropping it just means your running a little rich and when you let off the gas fresh air is sucked into the tail pipes and it ignites the unburnt fuel. When the cats heat up the noise goes away. Go get the car dyno tuned! IMO

Oh yeah, sweeet car.

**cascade** · 01-20-2006, 06:10 PM

Im around Bethlehem, PA. The crackling noise happens after I let off the gas with a little rev and comes from the exhaust pipes. After about a minute of warming up the noise doesn't happen.

BBATCAR · 01-20-2006, 07:54 PM

I own a 2001 WS6. I'm not sure what your weather is like, but I removed the two baffles inside the nostrils of the hood. I got about 20 - 25 more miles per tank full with an A4 transmission. You can see the Mods in my signature. I replaced rotors so many times, I finally spent some money on Baer Eradispeed rotors. Never had anymore problems. I would do subframe connectors and exhaust. Baffles are a free mod.... Good luck...

**SeVeReDiStOrTiOn** · 01-21-2006, 06:56 PM

Do all the free mods at http://installuniversity.com/install...sity/index.htm ...but i'd not do the TB bypass since it's cold enough where you live to snow. Get a lid to replace your stock upper air assembly...any brand is good. Get a good catback...or just a good flowing muffler if money's really tight.

And don't rev when the motor is cold

**stangereater** · 01-21-2006, 07:54 PM

Dude i have a 2000 TA M6 with 4.10s and get 23mpg!

**1 of 122** · 01-21-2006, 07:58 PM

Congrats.....looks good!

Hey, I'm not trying to be a hater, just looking out. But I'm pretty sure those wheels aren't correct for a 2001 WS6. Where did you buy the car from? Are you sure the car a real WS6? Check the RPO code sticker, you should see a "WS9 and WS6" code.

**Ric** · 01-21-2006, 09:31 PM

Y'all, he's getting 15 mpg in the city. To my understanding, that ain't all that bad. Piston slap isn't as bad as it sounds, dude. Ours has it around 2500ish rpm with moderate throttle, and has always had it. The pistons are a thousandth of an inch or so loose, making them rattle a bit when cold. Definitely let your engine get up to operating temp before playing, and congrats on picking muscle over rice!

**cascade** · 01-21-2006, 10:46 PM

It's a real WS6. It says so on the door sticker. I bought it from a local dealership: Fred Beans.

**FireHawk#75** · 01-21-2006, 11:55 PM

Um 15mpg in the city with a LS1 M6 is terrible (I have over 450hp in mine with 4.11 gears and i get over 18mpg in the city!) - clean the mass air flow sensor with electronics cleaner while unplugged and off the car - also go easy on the k&n filter oil! - also (after you have cleaned the mass air flow sensor and plugged it back in!)turn the car switch to the on position and pull the ECM fuse out in the under hood fuse box - then cut the switch to the off position and wait a coulple minutes before putting the fuse back in - then start the car back up (it will run funny for a while but it will re-learn the fuel and spark and give you a bit more power back!)

**FireHawk#75** · 01-21-2006, 11:56 PM

Um 15mpg in the city with a LS1 M6 is terrible (I have over 450hp in mine with 4.11 gears and i get over 18mpg in the city!) - clean the mass air flow sensor with electronics cleaner while unplugged and off the car - also go easy on the k&n filter oil! - also (after you have cleaned the mass air flow sensor and plugged it back in!)turn the car switch to the on position and pull the ECM fuse out in the under hood fuse box - then cut the switch to the off position and wait a coulple minutes before putting the fuse back in - then start the car back up (it will run funny for a while but it will re-learn the fuel and spark and give you a bit more power back!)

**PontiacFan** · 01-22-2006, 08:59 AM

And the thin spoke WS6 17" wheels were available on the 2001's. They starting supplying the newer wide spoke wheels sometime mid-late year release on the '01's & then the '02's.

**1 of 122** · 01-22-2006, 09:17 AM

Originally Posted by cascade

It's a real WS6. It says so on the door sticker. I bought it from a local dealership: Fred Beans.

Dude...sorry. I must have been on crack last night. It was in 2002 when the wheels changed. You have the correct wheels for a 2001. Can't believe I messed up something so simple like that.

**4get gto** · 01-22-2006, 03:52 PM

Originally Posted by cascade

Im around Bethlehem, PA.

I'm up 33 -- north of you alittle.

I travel through the Valley (22) everyday....

And the last I checked I was getting around 19 mpg around town........

**Fastcar** · 01-22-2006, 07:33 PM

Brake & shake (or is it Shake & break, I sometimes get confused), the car shudders when you apply the brakes is a symptom of warped rotors which anyone who has an F-body has or will experience at one time or another. As others have noted, if you're low on cash a temporary fix would be to cut the rotors. However, the thinner the rotors get, the more prone they are to rewarping. Put in a good rotor - I got Brembos from the Tire Rack and change your pads to ceramic pads when you get your brakes done. Ceramics run cooler and are vey low dusting - I have Akebono but EBC also makes good street ceramic pads. If you have the money change your brake lines to stainless steel lines. They'll give you better brake (pedal) feel and better brake modulation, a more progressive feel. Drilled / slotted rotors are nice & they look cool, but every brake manufacturer will tell you that for street use, they really don't add much to brake performance. Cross drilled rotors are prone to developing stress cracks at the holes, they do cause increased pad wear and are noisier when stopping. Regular street driving almost never requires the increased cooling that you get from cross-drilling. Racing and autocrossing are different animals, though. Slotted rotors also cause increased pad wear & noise. Rotors were originally slotted & drilled to improve braking performance when older type organic pads were in use. These pads would outgas when stopping, building up a layer of gas between the pad and rotor. The gas layer prevented good contact between the pad & rotor - slots and holes provided an escape channel for these gases. Any honest rotor manufacturer will tell you that with modern pads (especially ceramic) slotting or drilling is really unnecessary. Enjoy your car & good luck! MUSCLECARS RULE!