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Picked up a 2001 Trans Am...general questions

This is a discussion on Picked up a 2001 Trans Am...general questions within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by cascade Im around Bethlehem, PA. The crackling noise happens after I let off the gas with a ...

  1. #21
    Orig Regist: 9/98
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    Quote Originally Posted by cascade
    Im around Bethlehem, PA. The crackling noise happens after I let off the gas with a little rev and comes from the exhaust pipes. After about a minute of warming up the noise doesn't happen.
    That is perfectly normal.

    Johnny B - '98 "Triple Black" WS6 Convert, M6, All Options, ASC #3030 (1 of 50)
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  2. #22
    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastcar
    Brake & shake (or is it Shake & break, I sometimes get confused), the car shudders when you apply the brakes is a symptom of warped rotors which anyone who has an F-body has or will experience at one time or another. As others have noted, if you're low on cash a temporary fix would be to cut the rotors. However, the thinner the rotors get, the more prone they are to rewarping. Put in a good rotor - I got Brembos from the Tire Rack and change your pads to ceramic pads when you get your brakes done. Ceramics run cooler and are vey low dusting - I have Akebono but EBC also makes good street ceramic pads. If you have the money change your brake lines to stainless steel lines. They'll give you better brake (pedal) feel and better brake modulation, a more progressive feel. Drilled / slotted rotors are nice & they look cool, but every brake manufacturer will tell you that for street use, they really don't add much to brake performance. Cross drilled rotors are prone to developing stress cracks at the holes, they do cause increased pad wear and are noisier when stopping. Regular street driving almost never requires the increased cooling that you get from cross-drilling. Racing and autocrossing are different animals, though. Slotted rotors also cause increased pad wear & noise. Rotors were originally slotted & drilled to improve braking performance when older type organic pads were in use. These pads would outgas when stopping, building up a layer of gas between the pad and rotor. The gas layer prevented good contact between the pad & rotor - slots and holes provided an escape channel for these gases. Any honest rotor manufacturer will tell you that with modern pads (especially ceramic) slotting or drilling is really unnecessary. Enjoy your car & good luck! MUSCLECARS RULE!
    damn good write-up, bud!

  3. #23
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    Hows it going?My name is Daniel,i bought a 2001 Trans am.The car has 6200. thousand miles on it.When i crank the car it will will tap a little until it warms up.The car will tap a little between 2 thousand and 25 hundred if you are running at an idle.If you give a little gas or let up the rattle will stop.I am running 92 octane so is this something to worry about?By the way this is my first ls1.I have been into the mustangs for the last 7 or so years until now.

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel harris View Post
    Hows it going?My name is Daniel,i bought a 2001 Trans am.The car has 6200. thousand miles on it.When i crank the car it will will tap a little until it warms up.The car will tap a little between 2 thousand and 25 hundred if you are running at an idle.If you give a little gas or let up the rattle will stop.I am running 92 octane so is this something to worry about?By the way this is my first ls1.I have been into the mustangs for the last 7 or so years until now.
    Man you dug up a 2 year old post, to introduce yourself, and describe a problem......????....That is strange.

    Welcome aboard, now let's let this thread vanish and start some new ones


  5. #25
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    i used to have the same popping noise under a cold start, now i got LT headers and no cat or AIR and no popping at any time what so ever

  6. #26
    Member sfletch2000's Avatar
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    I get like 15 MPG with all city driving with my mods, stock it was around 18 mpg. You'll only get that it if you drive it like an old lady though. I still get like 25 MPG if there all highway miles though.
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  7. #27
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    2001 trans am ws6

    do anyone know the lift on the 01 ws6 stock cam

  8. #28
    Member sfletch2000's Avatar
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    86 Buick Grand National
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    Not enough

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfletch2000 View Post
    Not enough
    i really wanted to know the exact lift before i buy a cam or buy new rockers and springs to get more lift off my stock cam

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel harris View Post
    Hows it going?My name is Daniel,i bought a 2001 Trans am.The car has 6200. thousand miles on it.When i crank the car it will will tap a little until it warms up.The car will tap a little between 2 thousand and 25 hundred if you are running at an idle.If you give a little gas or let up the rattle will stop.I am running 92 octane so is this something to worry about?By the way this is my first ls1.I have been into the mustangs for the last 7 or so years until now.
    my 01 does the same thing and my homeboy's 98 vette does it too we think that it just takes a while 4 the oil to get 2 all the rockers we could be wrong though and we run 93 octane in our cars

  11. #31
    Member sfletch2000's Avatar
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    86 Buick Grand National
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    Yeah mine does it too but not until i had my 228 cam and longtubes installed.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBATCAR View Post
    I own a 2001 WS6. I'm not sure what your weather is like, but I removed the two baffles inside the nostrils of the hood. I got about 20 - 25 more miles per tank full with an A4 transmission. You can see the Mods in my signature. I replaced rotors so many times, I finally spent some money on Baer Eradispeed rotors. Never had anymore problems. I would do subframe connectors and exhaust. Baffles are a free mod.... Good luck...
    i was considering removing my baffles too ,this wont allow too much air induction and change the performance of the car will it, i have a 01 A4 ws6 also and another ques my car doesnt have a manuual traction control switch and when i try too burn out in low 1 the tires will make a half turn then the car just bogs but if i leave it in drive i can burn the tires up ,can i have this deleted out of my computer or what will i have to do to eliminate this problem i had ordered the slp tcm module but couldn't use it because i didn't have a manual traction control switch in my car so does all true ws6's suppose to come with the switch i check my codes in the door and it has ws6 codes i even called the dealership too varify that i was a true ws6 before i bought it

  13. #33
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    Man you dug up a 2 year old post, to introduce yourself, and describe a problem......????....That is strange.

    Welcome aboard, now let's let this thread vanish and start some new ones

    +1.

  14. #34
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    Dont know how well the car was kept but a plugs, wires, fuel filter and o2 sensor change should pep up that MPG.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel harris View Post
    Hows it going?My name is Daniel,i bought a 2001 Trans am.The car has 6200. thousand miles on it.When i crank the car it will will tap a little until it warms up.The car will tap a little between 2 thousand and 25 hundred if you are running at an idle.If you give a little gas or let up the rattle will stop.I am running 92 octane so is this something to worry about?By the way this is my first ls1.I have been into the mustangs for the last 7 or so years until now.
    lol not sure why you posted here, but welcome to the site. the noise is most likely jsut the piston slap on a cold start, im pretty sure every vortech/LSX motor does it(i know for a fact LS1 motors do it) just put some injector cleaner in it every few full fill ups i would say lucus injector cleaner, its like 10$ and can be found at walmart its about the size of a 20 ounce coke bottle. stuff works good

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