Panhard Bar Movement

**Nowhereman** · 09-11-2011, 07:09 AM

Got my adjustable in this week. (BMR unit)
I'm measuring that the passenger side wheel center to fender is 1/3 of an inch closer than the driver side.
(means more tire sticking out of the passenger side)
If I do my logic correctly, this means that I lengthen the BMR bar by more than the stock center to center measurment.
Am I correct ?

**Knight** · 09-11-2011, 08:00 AM

You are correct.

**Nowhereman** · 10-06-2011, 07:38 PM

Did a under body check this week to see how the PH bar is getting along.
The grease is greasing the urethane bushing just fine, the adjustment threads are nice n tight, and I sprayed liquid lithium grease all around the Heim joint end to possibly gain some life rate on the plastic bearing material.
I really like the driving sensitivity change as the car has gone from a slight oversteer to a neutral steering car.
Bumps cycle smoother without shaking the car near as much.
All in all a good purchase.

**pajeff02** · 10-07-2011, 04:43 PM

Stock panhard bar is definitely a weak unit. I could twist mine in my hands when I removed it from the car. Have you swapped out the LCA's yet?

**Redrokit8** · 10-07-2011, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Stock panhard bar is definitely a weak unit. I could twist mine in my hands when I removed it from the car. Have you swapped out the LCA's yet?

I also would be interested to know of your impressions if you changed the LCA's. I'm currently working up an order for Panhard Bar, LCA's and F&R Sway Bars. I also found your question about the adjustability educational to me. I wasn't sure why the Panhard Bar should be adjustable.

**Nowhereman** · 10-07-2011, 09:04 PM

No plan for LCAs in the near future right now.
The tracking of the car is right on and the only time it will move in the road is if the road has some cant to it.
Maybe a shock tower brace in the future to see what gains in turning performance can be had.
What is nice about these F bodies is that they respond to every little thing you do to them.
This car tells you right through the seat into your pants how it's dealing with the road.

**pajeff02** · 10-08-2011, 03:53 AM

The general consensus is that STB's are generally just additional weight and underhood bling unless you are running your car in Auto-X events. Subframe connectors, however, are very much needed and go a long way towards tightening up the car's feel.

**Redrokit8** · 10-09-2011, 05:42 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

The general consensus is that STB's are generally just additional weight and underhood bling unless you are running your car in Auto-X events. Subframe connectors, however, are very much needed and go a long way towards tightening up the car's feel.

That's solid advice. I am currently waiting for my UMI Single Adjustable Panhard Rod and F&R Sway Bar Kit. My next plan is to install the single bolt in SFC's. They should suffice for my street driving. I'm mostly interested in firming up body flex. No real heavy launches etc.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 10-09-2011, 07:38 PM

After the install of my torque arm, sub-frame connectors, and lower control arms my car felt 10X more solid and the rear end stayed completely straight under hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

**Spikito** · 10-09-2011, 07:57 PM

i have a STB and LCAs...car feels much better, no wheel hop and only gets a little sideways in 1st and 2nd....slight enough that i don't have to back off the throttle....PHB next

**0verkill** · 10-10-2011, 05:31 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

After the install of my torque arm, sub-frame connectors, and lower control arms my car felt 10X more solid and the rear end stayed completely straight under hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

+1 to this it was a night and day kind of thing you just cant tell some one how good it is but you will thank all of us if you get them on the car and feel just how good it can get. i have the 3 point umi and the umi full adjustable phb, lca's, koni shock and strano springs and its like turning on rails. and thats with the factory tires still on the car

**Nowhereman** · 11-02-2011, 05:31 AM

Did a grease job on the underside this past weekend.
The PHB looked fine so I just sprayed the roto joint with Lithium spray grease.
I had a knock on hard bumps coming from the passenger side rear.
Couldn't find anything so I pulled that wimpy spare and jack out.
Voila... no more noise and the sound system sounds better do to the increase in rear speaker inclosure volume from removal of the spare.
Lubing up all the bushing locations really quieted down the car a lot.

**Spikito** · 11-02-2011, 07:56 AM

ive had the same sound....i think ill go pull my spare too and see what happens, lol

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-02-2011, 08:45 AM

I would hate for you to get a flat tire and be stranded somewhere. I'd try tightening down the jack prior to removing it and the spare tire. I'd also check for contact between the lower panhard bar support and exhaust where it goes over the axle for contact. Lastly, I'd try adjusting your rear hatch stops. Sometimes lengthening them will cause the hatch to fit tighter and reduce any vibration noise in that area.

**Nowhereman** · 11-02-2011, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I would hate for you to get a flat tire and be stranded somewhere. I'd try tightening down the jack prior to removing it and the spare tire. I'd also check for contact between the lower panhard bar support and exhaust where it goes over the axle for contact. Lastly, I'd try adjusting your rear hatch stops. Sometimes lengthening them will cause the hatch to fit tighter and reduce any vibration noise in that area.

That mini spare is a joke.
My rig would hit the ground with that on.
I have 24 /7 road service that I have been paying for years now.
Something happens, just pick up the cell and say "pick me up boys".
Seriously though, this noise came from the wheel well.
I have been under this car a dozen times looking for telltale anything with no luck.
The spare does work it's way loose after time.
The noise is gone and I got rid of 20 pounds or so of dead weight. LOL

**Spikito** · 11-02-2011, 11:09 AM

im pretty sure the size of the spare would jack with my TCS

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-02-2011, 11:51 AM

A spare is not intended to be left on a car so if having it on triggers an ABS/TCS light, I wouldn't be concerned with that. It is intended to get you home. I rather not be sitting on the side of the road hoping road-side assistance will come help me. Especially if I am in the middle of nowhere or it's 3AM. Or hoping I get cell service or even have a cell on me.

I have had to use mine before and I'm glad I had it. Better to be safe than sorry IMO.

My spare is in my hatch and I have zero noise.

**Nowhereman** · 11-02-2011, 12:16 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

A spare is not intended to be left on a car so if having it on triggers an ABS/TCS light, I wouldn't be concerned with that. It is intended to get you home. I rather not be sitting on the side of the road hoping road-side assistance will come help me. Especially if I am in the middle of nowhere or it's 3AM. Or hoping I get cell service or even have a cell on me.

I have had to use mine before and I'm glad I had it. Better to be safe than sorry IMO.

My spare is in my hatch and I have zero noise.

Thats cool, one man's meat is another man's poison I always say.
For me, that spare set up will go back into the car when the car goes away..
Da spare is shitinski and will take up space in the garage.

**Spikito** · 11-02-2011, 02:10 PM

i meant set it off, as in, a low trac light, killing the throttle.

Edit: forgot we have a switch to turn that off.

**Nowhereman** · 11-11-2011, 09:02 AM

Interesting, I decided to check the wheel to fender clearance last night.
Somehow my passenger side rear wheel was 1/2 out more than the driver side.
Nothing was loose or bent underneath when I checked today.
I adjusted it again so that both axle centers were exactly 2.25 inches from fender.
Wonder what's going on..
Hope the Heim joint end isn't giving up.