Ok,the color by number steps to 400 hp?

**BAndit111** · 05-25-2008, 07:44 AM

Hi,i am new here,and contemplating getting a ws6.

Is there any way i could convince someone to itemize and possibly approx price the mods needed for 400 hp to the wheels?I own a mustang,so this is a bit foriegn to me as to what to do and in what order?Can the average joe do the mods with basic mech skills?How tool friendly are these cars?Like changing plugs and all that?

**Danger731** · 05-25-2008, 07:52 AM

spray a 75 shot

**BAndit111** · 05-25-2008, 08:05 AM

I see.Well,i'd like to have it all engine.I should have said that.And things too like i read the stock shocks are pretty bad?I have a fair assortment of tools and jacks,and just want a good picture of how to proceed.

**02cetransam** · 05-25-2008, 08:15 AM

pro charger

**1flynDO** · 05-25-2008, 08:33 AM

The procharger will net you 500+ HP at the wheels with 8PSI. Try LT, Y,cat back and a lid, filter and a good tune. This would be a good start. You can do it cheap or you can do it right. The procharger will run you in the area of 8500.00 installed with a tune. That will include the SPEC stage 3 clutch. You will still need SFC.

**Kup98ss** · 05-25-2008, 10:20 AM

Basic bolt ons first.
LTheaders
Ypipe
catback
Lid
That should get you around 400hp at the motor.
Not 400rwp but it gets you closer.

**BAndit111** · 05-25-2008, 10:34 AM

Thanks,i think my main goal is that i don't end up "wasting" any earlier mods and do it right from the start.The one i am looking at is an auto,and i am concerned about any tranny/rear end limitations as well.Will they hold up to 400,and i would guess no to the procharger setup?

**Kup98ss** · 05-25-2008, 10:42 AM

don't forget to get a dyno tune after the header install.

**1flynDO** · 05-25-2008, 11:20 AM

As long as you dont run slicks, ET drags........ the rear should be fine with a procharger. The tires will break loose before the rear end ie the weakest link. The intake and exhaust with a tune make a big difference. I will be selling my CAI from SLP with 1 new KN filter in mid July for 150.00. I will be getting the D1SC porcharger instead of an LS7.

**tigersport14** · 05-25-2008, 11:55 AM

ls6 intake manifold, LT headers, throttle body, true duals =) and a tune, then get a cam, and youll be putting down more than 400

**Cali Night Stalker** · 05-25-2008, 03:23 PM

I got a 02 WS6, Voolant intake, full exhaust, pullys, fuel rail and injectors and all the free mods. Spent about $1,200 and got 394hp 391tq with a tune not bad huh

**RandomOmen** · 05-25-2008, 05:40 PM

WHAT! That's rediculous! Those must be dynojet #s

**Cali Night Stalker** · 05-25-2008, 06:10 PM

Originally Posted by RandomOmen

WHAT! That's rediculous! Those must be dynojet #s

Stock dyno at 327hp 339tq dnt know wats wrong wit ur ride but with the mods i got u should have about the same #'s. All 01, 02 WS6 have LS6 stock manifolds and dyno at about 320-330hp and 330-350tq stock!

**RandomOmen** · 05-25-2008, 06:11 PM

Like I said you must be talking dynojet numbers, not mustang dyno numbers

**Bottesini** · 05-25-2008, 06:26 PM

Originally Posted by RandomOmen

Like I said you must be talking dynojet numbers, not mustang dyno numbers

Even dynojet those type of numbers typically need a cam. The dyno is such a loose measuring device it is really only at its most useful as a tuning tool. What really matters is how well the car moves out

**c5z28** · 05-25-2008, 07:20 PM

exhaust and intake are biggies, if you get the cam with it, 400whp no problem, again depends if you want to do things right.

**BAndit111** · 05-25-2008, 07:54 PM

Ya,i wanna do it right,even if that meant the more expensive mods first.I would go so far as to say i would stay stock for F/I if that would end up being cheaper in the long run.Could you actually do that and stay in one controllable piece?lol.Man,i'm dizzy from reading.I have alot to learn.

**c5z28** · 05-25-2008, 09:25 PM

Originally Posted by BAndit111

Ya,i wanna do it right,even if that meant the more expensive mods first.I would go so far as to say i would stay stock for F/I if that would end up being cheaper in the long run.Could you actually do that and stay in one controllable piece?lol.Man,i'm dizzy from reading.I have alot to learn.

How many miles you have? If you got the money go for it, but hardly anyone on this site does. forced induction is usually the last thing you do. If you blow it you need exhaust to breathe, possibly rebuild heads and clean up the bore new forged pistons etc. Then you need to get a new rearend unless you baby it, and no one does, and then you need suspension tires and gears to hook it up right. Its a bad domino effect unless you won the lotto, I sound like a broken record but the best thing to do is intake and exhaust, and if you want that 400+whp you need a cam. However if you want a 12 second car get some 373's, its cheaper than full exhaust and is still street driveable. Go to the track look at what people got, its a fun way to learn and it gets you off your ass wishin and gets you to interact with people who push in the right direction. Totally different enviornment at the track.

**randybird** · 05-25-2008, 09:50 PM

If you have a little more $ start with a Firehawk, 345 Hp vs. the 315 Hp on the WS6. You can convert the LS1 to an LS6 with a head (243 castings) and cam change and just use the LS6 stock yellow springs and add the SLP 1.85 rockers. I hand ported and polished my heads, that was the hardest and most time consuming part. Be careful though the heads have thin water jackets. You can get used parts for around $500 or $600 if you look around. It's possible to change them out with the motor left in the car. Wear long sleeved shirt and gloves though, it'll cut you up. Then just do the normal bolt ons, headers, under-drive pulley balancer, smooth belows, high-flow MAF sensor, air lid, port and polish the throttle body, throttle body bypass, and tune. you can do a lot with a good tune. You can alway add the protection parts to be safe like, a high capacity radiator, 160°F thermostat, fan control switch, double roller timing chain. That will put some power to the back wheels. I'm afraid to add frame stiffeners and torque arms to mine. When the Firestone Firehawks were still good the rear end felt like it was coming unglued. There are lots more good things you can do to the LS1 though, it depends on how far you want to go. Good luck, sorry I'm so long winded

**Bottesini** · 05-25-2008, 10:21 PM

This would be my suggestion for getting to the magic 400 mark with a 2001-2002 Fbody, or at least very close. Of course all the prices I am listing are just ballparks (only listing part cost not labor to install), and you can save alot of money buying used parts.

If your car is older then 2001 you will want an LS6 intake $300-450

Lid $50-100

Long tube headers $200 - 1200 (mostly depends on if you want stainless or not)

Exhaust $500-750 (I prefer getting custom true duals if you can find a good shop)

Cam $400-500 (I prefer a milder cam since mine is a daily driver 226/228 .585/.588 LSA 112, get a LSA of 114 for a smoother idle) Lots of great cam choices to pick from

With the cam you will need:
Springs $255 (Patriot Gold Double Springs, should be more then enough for most cams)

Tune $400-500

While you are doing a cam you might as well get:

LS6 ported and shimmed oil pump $125-150

LS2 timing chain $75-150

This should put you right around 400RWHP with a M6. Granted each car is different and results may vary, but should be close.

To make the car hook up well and stay in one piece you will need to upgrade:

Rear end $2400-3000

For manuals the clutch $400-700

I am not to sure on how well the autos are holding up to this kind of power, but I am sure someone will chime in. I have also left out the little things like spark plugs, gaskets, filters, etc mostly because I am lazy and it will depend on how your vehicle.