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new '99 T/A,where to start with mods?

This is a discussion on new '99 T/A,where to start with mods? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey guys I am new to the site. I just bought a 1999 trans am, 6 speed,all stock, and was ...

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    new '99 T/A,where to start with mods?

    Hey guys I am new to the site. I just bought a 1999 trans am, 6 speed,all stock, and was hoping for some input as to where I should start with some mods to help up my horsepower and performance. Like what cold air system, exhaust,gears etc. would be best for my car. Thanks in advance

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    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    An aftermarket air lid is a good start. I have the SLP lid and I'm happy with it. There are other types of setups out there, too, that don't use the stock-style lid setup. Exhaust is another good mod that should be one of the first things you do. A good cat-back system from Magnaflow, Hooker, Borla or one of the countless other exhaust system manufacturers will do you right. If you live somewhere where you don't get smog tested, dump your catalytic converters and get you a set of long-tube headers, along with an ORY (off-road Y-pipe). Since you have a manual, throw in a short-throw shifter. Once you've done these things, you can work on upgrading your suspension. Things like lower control arms, bigger sway bars, sub-frame connectors and your panhard rod are but just a few suspension items you can modify and notice a marked improvement in how your car handles. Check out some of the stuff from BMR, UMI & Strano as far as beefing up your suspension goes.
    2001 Chevy Camaro Z28 A4
    SLP cold air intake/lid, SLP smooth bellow, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, Magnaflow exhaust, BMR STB, adjustable Panhard rod, SFC's, LCA's, 1LE sway bars, cross-drilled rotors

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    What part of Alabama are you guys in...? only reason I ask is because im in Huntsville...I personally would do long tubes and exhaust first, mainly because I like the sound when it comes to exhaust I would recommend going to youtube and looking up some sound clips. Lots of guys run SLP loudmouth systems...I personally run flowmasters with long tubes, off road Y pipe, and no cats. Mine sounds really good, or so I've been told....when it comes to intakes, just like everything else you will get a few different recommendations for a few different reasons. The SLP lid is the easiest to find, but some people have fitment issues with it...depends on the car.

    Look up the LS1 free mods on the forum...you can do some free stuff that will get you a few HP here and there.

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    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    Damn, I'm on the mobile app and didn't notice he was from Alabama

    With that being said, I'm in Birmingham.

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FinZ28 View Post
    Damn, I'm on the mobile app and didn't notice he was from Alabama

    With that being said, I'm in Birmingham.
    Im right up 65...I live like 5 mins off the 65/565 interchange.

    Stoke dog, just out of curiosity how many miles are on your car?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    damn we are going have our own little club here soon.

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    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    damn we are going have our own little club here soon.
    Yup

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    damn we are going have our own little club here soon.
    Im down...

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Blue 66 View Post
    Which forum is that in?? I missed it.
    Here's a pretty good write up on them...feel free to ask any questions if you decide to do some of this stuff. I personally would stay away from de-screening the MAF because i've heard of people having issues with it in the long run, others never have any issues. I had to clean mine recently and it was never de-screened... Also, since your car is a WS6 you might want to look into removing the baffles instead of cutting the bottom of the airlid...i've seen a lot of WS6 guys who say dont cut the lid, but remove the baffles instead. Other guys can chime in on that because I have never owned a ram air car...

    LS-1 F-Body Free Modifications - GM High-Tech Performance Magazine <----they dyno'd the car after they were done and saw around 10hp and 10ftlbs from free stuff...nothing earth shattering, but free is free
    Last edited by theorangeguy; 06-05-2013 at 12:17 PM.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Doug, best advice I can give is figure out what you want first. There are so many options Street, Daily Driver, Track, & Show. Each option can be combine. Some go together very well, some not so well.

    For example a DD + Heavy Track use car would be great for stop and go with traffic lights but would suck on everything as a DD.

    A DD + Street = lets you still have fun but not so much heavy mods that you couldn't drive it everyday to work.

    Show cars tend to become trailer queens because let's face it you wouldn't park your car that has a $5000 paint job in a Walmart parking lot.

    My direction is Street and some show. I still want to drive mine around and enjoy it.


    What I'm trying to tell you is research the hell out of it all before you commit to anything and you'll save you some $$ & time.
    You also need to break it down into small projects unless you got the $$$ to go all out. Average build based on your skills, tools you own, & it always comes down to how much money you're willing to throw at it can go from 3-5 yrs depending on what you're doing. Be ready to accept some setbacks.

    Order to build to mods.....is like asking everyone's opinion on brand of headers to get. You'll get a wide varity.

    Best advice I'm following is mild bolt ones can be done anytime. These are LT headers, muffler, Intake (- FAST 102), air lid, wheels & tires, performance tune from Frost. Those mods open up the car and with Frost's tuning help the car run like it should have been from the factory.


    If you choose to have a street pounder then you'll want to go ahead and do those above, from the start save up for a new rear. It's not if but when you cross the 400 hp line that your rear end is going to go out. Even on stock power levels M6 cars can blow them out on a serious hard launch. Most rears go for $2000-2800 depending on what type, options and brand you go with.

    Suspension - 2pt/3pt SFC's - 3pt > 2pt > nothing. You want SFC's 3 points are stronger and give less body flex then 2 pt. LCA's - wheel hop is easy under the stock stamp pieces, Torque Arm - Get this off the tail cone of the transmission. Stamp piece looks cheap when you compare it to the aftermarket. PHB - need an adjustable if you ever lower the car, same for LCA's. Good set of springs. I'm still running on OEM shocks but the next time I'll be get a set of Bilsteins. QA1's are for serious players, cost about 1k

    Next would be the motor which means H/C (Heads and cam) and serious intake. Intakes - for about 90% builds a LS6 intake is a great budget friendly intake that you can upgrade to. You'll hear about FAST 90's & 102's. Each intake has additional things needed to make them work but when installed and tune can add serious HP. 20-30 gains are easy achieve with these intakes but the cost....90's are no longer made so it's ebay/craigslist, etc to find these, they still go for around $700. Now the 102 intake goes for around $1000 by itself, but it also requires a new TB (another $450-500), injectors, fuel pump, & tuning. Most guys will do this mod along with H/C upgrades because you only need to pay once for tuning (goes about $500 for full tune, mail orders for those simple bolt ons, Frost does them for $160).

    H/C - to many options to go over. Best thing to do is research what you like, watch youtube videos and ask around. What works for one may not work for you.


    There is so much more but without knowing your experience level and budget I could flood you with info. I haven't even touched on force induction or N2O...


    I show my signature to let you see what I've done so far to mine. I'm currently building a LQ4 (6liter) to replace my blown motor. At the same time I've custom fab a Ford 8.8 rear to my f-body specs. I hope to finish with both buy August. I've had a couple of setbacks like shoulder surgery and blowing up my LS1 that put a temp stop on the rear project. But as soon as I'm able I'll be finishing the rear real soon. I'm having a shop get me to a short block and I'll do the rest once I get it back home.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  11. #11
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    79 Trans Am

    ^^ best advice you can get right there.

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