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name that sound.... new guy

This is a discussion on name that sound.... new guy within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Never looked into the filler neck with the engine running....

  1. #41
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Never looked into the filler neck with the engine running.

  2. #42
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    2001 trans am

    ah, well i figured it would be easier then pulling the covers, guess i will look for some videos of a v8 running without the covers and see if they have a stream of oil

  3. #43
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    blue
    2001 trans am



    interesting.

  4. #44
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    blue
    2001 trans am

    did you happen to watch the video i posted on page 1? not of my car but the later one, that is pretty much identical to mine, im not throwing any codes but i will pull the covers soon

  5. #45
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    Watched all the vids.

  6. #46
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    blue
    2001 trans am

    did that other one help at all?

  7. #47
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    Sounded different than yours... at least to me.

  8. #48
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    i dont think the video does it justice then, to me its identical. But i have found out my tension army pulley is warn, and one on the a/c line... fixes one problem

  9. #49
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    5w30 or 10w30? I guess unless someone else posts then im just going to chalk it up to loud valvetrain, hopefully i will get the covers off but i figured id have a misfire code for bent rods

  10. #50
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    When I first was introduced to these cars and engines, I heard all kinds of noises because I was so used to OHC engines that are usually quite quiet compared to push rod cam in block engines. It seems to me that these LS motors are inherently loud new out of the crate. More parts=more noise. Easy for me to say, but if oil pressure stays steady along with engine operating temp and your noise level doesn't increase, I would accept it and drive it. My 2002 with 12K is a clicker and a clacker in my mind as well. Mine had sat for apprx 10 years without being run and I suspect the lifters bled down or something like that. In 3000 miles I changed the oil & filter three times using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Then a couple of good runs over 100 miles helped. Now I'm going to tell you something here that will probably get me laughed off the forum. I also put a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil in all my cars when I change the oil. Does it help ? I don't know, it's a MYSTERY to me ! I've done it for over 40 years and I'm too superstitious to stop. BUT, a lot of my noisy concerns seem to have cleared up.
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  11. #51
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    well i purchased an actual stereoscopic this weekend ( i highly recommend buying one). The noise is definitive not from the bottom end and is 100% for sure coming from the back valve covers on each side, strongest on the passenger side. I guess its loudest under the car because the sound bounces down from the dash or something. I guess its time for some new push rods and rocker arms. I am using 10w30 right now is 5w30 any better for noise? I also noticed on LS1howto.com on rocker arm installation they only set the valve lash one one cylinder and the rest they just put on there, is that right or are they using the same amount of turns for each one? also what length and brand is recommended for push rods as well as rockers?

  12. #52
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redrokit8 View Post
    When I first was introduced to these cars and engines, I heard all kinds of noises because I was so used to OHC engines that are usually quite quiet compared to push rod cam in block engines. It seems to me that these LS motors are inherently loud new out of the crate. More parts=more noise. Easy for me to say, but if oil pressure stays steady along with engine operating temp and your noise level doesn't increase, I would accept it and drive it. My 2002 with 12K is a clicker and a clacker in my mind as well. Mine had sat for apprx 10 years without being run and I suspect the lifters bled down or something like that. In 3000 miles I changed the oil & filter three times using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Then a couple of good runs over 100 miles helped. Now I'm going to tell you something here that will probably get me laughed off the forum. I also put a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil in all my cars when I change the oil. Does it help ? I don't know, it's a MYSTERY to me ! I've done it for over 40 years and I'm too superstitious to stop. BUT, a lot of my noisy concerns seem to have cleared up.
    No laughing here, that Marvel Mystery oil is a great cleaning agent. It's basically auto transmission fluid with a few additives. I've used it in the past on some of the cars I've had sitting around for 20 years or more that I haven't started. Most recently in a SCJ mustang that has been sitting since 85. After a long hibernation it had some sticky valves from gummed up fuel. Marvel Mystery oil cleared that stuff right up and it runs like a top now.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Better to run Penzoil Platinum in the crankcase and add 1 ounce of TC-W3 rated 2 stroke oil to every 5 gallons of gas. No joke...
    I follow that, seems to work.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by lipsasaurus View Post
    well i purchased an actual stereoscopic this weekend ( i highly recommend buying one). The noise is definitive not from the bottom end and is 100% for sure coming from the back valve covers on each side, strongest on the passenger side. I guess its loudest under the car because the sound bounces down from the dash or something. I guess its time for some new push rods and rocker arms. I am using 10w30 right now is 5w30 any better for noise? I also noticed on LS1howto.com on rocker arm installation they only set the valve lash one one cylinder and the rest they just put on there, is that right or are they using the same amount of turns for each one? also what length and brand is recommended for push rods as well as rockers?
    A stock LS1 valvetrain is non adjustable. You just torque the rocker shaft down and that's it. Lifter preload is set according to pushrod length.
    With that said, alot of people that I've talked too are now running slightly longer pushrods when doing a cam kit for a little extra preload. Seems to quiet these engines down as most of them seem to sound like sewing machines.

    You can convert over to an adjustable valve train (that was done on my wifes car with the cam install) With adjustable rockers I can set the preload to anything I wish. I believe the stock LS1 lifter calls for .100-.120" preload, and I used a dial indicator to reach the maximum amount and used that on each rocker. Her car is extremely quiet with no "sewing machine" noises. I can hear the injectors firing and that's it.

  15. #55
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    Whatever the OP does, just make sure that proper valve train geometry is maintained -- you want the rockers to have the correct contact patch on the end of the valve stem.

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    A stock LS1 valvetrain is non adjustable. You just torque the rocker shaft down and that's it. Lifter preload is set according to pushrod length.
    With that said, alot of people that I've talked too are now running slightly longer pushrods when doing a cam kit for a little extra preload. Seems to quiet these engines down as most of them seem to sound like sewing machines.

    You can convert over to an adjustable valve train (that was done on my wifes car with the cam install) With adjustable rockers I can set the preload to anything I wish. I believe the stock LS1 lifter calls for .100-.120" preload, and I used a dial indicator to reach the maximum amount and used that on each rocker. Her car is extremely quiet with no "sewing machine" noises. I can hear the injectors firing and that's it.

    right but if i were to upgrade to yella terra or comp cam rockers they need to be set correct? I know keeping the rockers on the same location on the stems but i am concerned with the new rockers, Finals Next Week - Damn! LOL as i stated before the guide says you only need to set valve lash on one cylinder and the rest it does not matter?

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by lipsasaurus View Post
    right but if i were to upgrade to yella terra or comp cam rockers they need to be set correct? I know keeping the rockers on the same location on the stems but i am concerned with the new rockers, Finals Next Week - Damn! LOL as i stated before the guide says you only need to set valve lash on one cylinder and the rest it does not matter?
    Lots of versions of roller rockers out there for LS engines. I have Crane's version that doesn't use the shaft anymore, it's old school screw in studs and guide plates.

    Not sure what guide you are reading. If you have the stock setup, you don't set lash on any of them. You simply bolt down the rocker shaft assembly and torque to spec, the length of your pushrods will determine lifter pre load, it's just like an FE ford

  18. #58
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    ah it looks like i put the wrong link in my last post. here is the installation guide link LS1Howto.com

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by lipsasaurus View Post
    ah it looks like i put the wrong link in my last post. here is the installation guide link LS1Howto.com
    Those are Yella Terra rockers, not stockers. That style you have to shim for preload, so they aren't adjustable with the "nut". I'm not a big fan of that, but it's what ever you prefer. I also don't care for some of the instruction, as it says "Approximatly" "X" amount of turns equals "X" amount of preload without being very specific.

    You can't set the preload on these things by counting the amount of times you spin the wrench. The amount of preload will vary from engine to engine due to the "thread per inch" count on the studs.

    If you are going to use these, what you really want to do, is set up a dial indicator on the push rod end of the rocker. Shim what you think might be appropriate, and then zero the dial indicator and start slowly tightening the nut. If you go past the recommended amount of preload before the nut tightens, then you need to add more shims and try again.

    My opinion,,,,,pain in the butt. Get something that doesn't use the shims and is simply adjustable at the nut and be done with it. Then you just install your rockers, set zero lash, install your dial indicator, tighten your poly lock until lash is reached and lock it down. Once you have determined how many turns you have from zero lash to your preload setting on the dial indicator, then the dial indicator isn't needed on the rest of the rockers.
    When I did mine (been a couple years) I believe I measured to .120" preload on the dial indicator and that was more than 1 full turn (maybe 1 1/2) because of the fine thread count on the studs. Hope that helps.

  20. #60
    Member Redrokit8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    No laughing here, that Marvel Mystery oil is a great cleaning agent. It's basically auto transmission fluid with a few additives. I've used it in the past on some of the cars I've had sitting around for 20 years or more that I haven't started. Most recently in a SCJ mustang that has been sitting since 85. After a long hibernation it had some sticky valves from gummed up fuel. Marvel Mystery oil cleared that stuff right up and it runs like a top now.
    Ok Jones, you made me feel better. I was curious if anyone else used the stuff. Glad to hear I'm not the only one !! I'm so damned superstitious I always have a reserve on my shelf.

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