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most regreted mod?

This is a discussion on most regreted mod? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Bigger MAF on a stock T/A, took it off after ten min. Figured was on my old one would work ...

  1. #21
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    2001 Trans Am Ws6

    Bigger MAF on a stock T/A, took it off after ten min. Figured was on my old one would work but some of my stupidity showed there

  2. #22
    Member jetaws6's Avatar
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    1998 Trans Am Ws6

    A monster stage 3 clutch

  3. #23
    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetaws6 View Post
    A monster stage 3 clutch
    Why? I love my Stage 4.

  4. #24
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Innovate LC-1 wideband pisses me off every time I open my cutout or go to the track. Just tried their "recommended fix" this evening so we'll see if it works properly now.
    What's it doing? I open my dual cutouts with the wideband and have no issues....

  5. #25
    Member jetaws6's Avatar
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    1998 Trans Am Ws6

    Its got a good bit of chatter and it broke a spring with 800 miles on it. I should have gone with a stage 4 spec or a mcleod

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    What's it doing? I open my dual cutouts with the wideband and have no issues....

    This: Exhaust Bung Spacer

  7. #27
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Don't know why you would need a spacer for the sensor. Mine never came that way, they just sent a standard bung. As a matter of fact, I have an entire box full of standard bungs I weld onto cars before tuning, and my sensor has worked flawless in multiple applications with a short stubby bung and that 02 sensor hanging way out into the exhaust stream.
    Honestly, I don't see the extended bung as being very affective, since it completely covers the sensor inside, I would be inclined to think it would give you inaccurate AFR readings. The stubby bungs shouldn't affect anything, I feel the issue is something else. Just my thoughts on it.

  8. #28
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    how far is your bung from your cutout? Are you also sure there's no leaks at your header collector or anything like that? What exactly does it do?

  9. #29
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    The bung is approximately 7 feet upstream from the cutout and there is a catalytic converter between them. While cruising, if I open the cutout the A/F guage will sort of freeze and then start blinking "7.4". It does the same thing almost every time I go WOT. The data stream from the narrowband sensors appears unaffected by the cutout being opened. When the A/F gauge does work, my readings are all appropriate throughout the rev range. It fattens up at WOT just like it should, right around 12.8 if I recall correctly.

  10. #30
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    That's strange, never heard that one before.

    I have both of my cutouts right after the header collectors, and the 02 bung is right in the header collector, so I'd say the bung is about 1 foot from the cutouts.

    I see nothing abnormal flicking the cutouts open or closed other than the AFR does what I expect it to,,,,and lean out about .2-.3 tenths with the cutouts open.

  11. #31
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    This is the reply I received from Innovate -- had to go dig it out of 0rion's LC-1 install thread:

    Having the sensor that close to the cut out might be cooling the sensor too much to where the heater can not keep up , therefore giving you an error 08. I suggest that you first pull the sensor further away from the exhaust stream by installing a 1" tall bung. You can also weld two 1/2" bungs together. Lastly, run through a heater calibration:

    1. With the LC-1 off, remove the sensor from the exhaust and disconnect it from the unit.
    2. Turn the unit on. You should get an Error 02 (Heater Circuit Open)
    3. After 30 seconds turn the unit off. Connect the sensor to the LC-1. Turn the unit back on.
    4. The LC-1 will run through the warm up and from there it will go into a 9-0 count down (heater calibration.)
    5. After this is done do a free air calibration.

    Make sure to perform all these steps with the sensor in free air.

  12. #32
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    na.....that's not making any sense. I have mine 6" into the Y from the header and my cutout is right under the passenger rear seat and I don't have that problem. I also don't think adding the extra bung is going to help you. Have you tried opening the cutout before you even start the car and seeing what the wideband does? Is the wideband and cutout drawing power from the same source or are they grounded at the same source? The grounds on your wideband are very imortant. I ran a separate wire to the head for mine. When you first turn the key to run what does your wideband say? In other words as the wideband is warming up what does it show?

  13. #33
    Member 2000dreambird's Avatar
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    00 trans am,SLP,Ws6

    Worst mod i ever did was the marriage mod, caused alot of noise from the passenger seat. after this i went with the Ex-Wife delete, it cost alot about $40k but was WELL worth it................

  14. #34
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Quote Originally Posted by 2000dreambird View Post
    Worst mod i ever did was the marriage mod, caused alot of noise from the passenger seat. after this i went with the Ex-Wife delete, it cost alot about $40k but was WELL worth it................


    I laugh for a good 10 mins....made my week!!!!

  15. #35
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    This is the reply I received from Innovate -- had to go dig it out of 0rion's LC-1 install thread:

    Having the sensor that close to the cut out might be cooling the sensor too much to where the heater can not keep up , therefore giving you an error 08. I suggest that you first pull the sensor further away from the exhaust stream by installing a 1" tall bung. You can also weld two 1/2" bungs together. Lastly, run through a heater calibration:

    1. With the LC-1 off, remove the sensor from the exhaust and disconnect it from the unit.
    2. Turn the unit on. You should get an Error 02 (Heater Circuit Open)
    3. After 30 seconds turn the unit off. Connect the sensor to the LC-1. Turn the unit back on.
    4. The LC-1 will run through the warm up and from there it will go into a 9-0 count down (heater calibration.)
    5. After this is done do a free air calibration.

    Make sure to perform all these steps with the sensor in free air.
    I do a free air calibration before I use mine everytime. Like I said though, I have my sensor mounted within a foot of the cutout, and it has no affect on the sensor.

  16. #36
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    pretty much like all mine

  17. #37
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000dreambird View Post
    Worst mod i ever did was the marriage mod, caused alot of noise from the passenger seat. after this i went with the Ex-Wife delete, it cost alot about $40k but was WELL worth it................
    I think ex husbands count to!

    That was great.


  18. #38
    Member blackcar's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro SS
    '02 Z28 parting-out

    Aftermarket MAF

  19. #39
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000dreambird View Post
    Worst mod i ever did was the marriage mod, caused alot of noise from the passenger seat. after this i went with the Ex-Wife delete, it cost alot about $40k but was WELL worth it................
    Epic!

  20. #40
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    Well, the extended bung didn't do a thing. The wideband still wigged out on most of my runs with the cutout open this weekend. A few runs it stayed working and again everything looked like it should. Starting the car with the cutout open is no different that with it closed -- seems to be the same and then after a while it goes out and flashes 7.4 like it always does.

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