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Misfire Engine light 00 RA TA

This is a discussion on Misfire Engine light 00 RA TA within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; After spending about $400 to have some wires and plugs and an 02 sensor replaced at local garage i still ...

  1. #1
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    Misfire Engine light 00 RA TA

    After spending about $400 to have some wires and plugs and an 02 sensor replaced at local garage i still have this SERIOUS problem of the engine misfiring. I dont think the computer is giving the right codes out and it seems to be cyl #6 that is getting fouled out. Car only has 13K its a 2000 RamAir TA.. and idea or help on where to start looking for the culpret and or problem(s) are appreciated. TIA

    Tom (412) 559-2721

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    Only replaced 1 of the O2's?

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    I beleive he did only replace whatever one was throwing the code. Its the 2nd one i have replaced in under 15K.. seems a little crazy that they are going bad so fast . I do have SLP Headers & cats and a borla exhaust.. the car wont barely run its that bad.. shakes like crazy and the CEL flashes like mad

    Tom

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    hmmmm......have you checked fuel pressure? There's a shrader valve on the end of the drivers side fuel rail (has a cap on it you unscrew) then you can buy a fuel pressure tester at almost any parts store for ~$20 (make sure it has the GM fitting). A shrader valve is just like the valve stem on a tire. Easy to do. Screw that onto the end of the fuel rail and turn the key to run but don't start and see what your fuel pressure is and let it sit for a few seconds to make sure it holds pressure then start the car and see what your pressure is then....should be ~58psi.
    That's probably where I would start. Also, check and make sure all of the plug wires are on tight (they should click when you push them down) as it's pretty common for people to not get those on all the way. I would then look at injector connectors to make sure they didn't unplug one of those or something along those lines.

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    Like 0rion stated, check the wires and plugs. It is possible that they accidentally cracked a plug or do not have a wire on all the way. Some guys have even had plugs that were not tight after being replaced by a shop. The wires should "click" once on the plugs and twice on the coils when properly installed. If you can not find anything wrong, wait until dark and then start the engine with the hood up. You can sometimes spot the problem as the spark will arc wherever the issue is.

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    Member 2000dreambird's Avatar
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    i just commented on this in another thread,, i had a grand Prix setting off a cyl# 6 code and it ended up being a boot to a spark plug wire that had traveled up the wire a little ways, this caused the spark plug to arc on the motor before having a chance to fire the cylinder, causing the misfire and the cyl 6 code.. a separate incident but very much like the this one was when the cat started to clog also set off a misfire code

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    Member godless-phoenix's Avatar
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    cylinder 6 and 8 are a bitch to get too...i get 8 from under the car cause its just too far in there...you'll need to take off your A.I.R. hose that connects to the exhaust manifold to check if the plugs are loose and the wire connections are tight...

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    Have you switched your coil packs around to see if that is the problem?

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Sure sounds like the classic spark plug/wire issue. Follow Pajeff's advice. Is it always #6 cylinder for the misfire code? Can you check the codes again?

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    My 2000 ta ws6 has cyl 2 misfire and the wire was connected to the plug all the way

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    OP, You can do a combo of what Jeff and Orion have posted.

    If it's always # 6 take Coil and wire from #2 and switch. If problem moves to # 2 cylinder it is either coil or wire, if it doesn't move it could even be a cracked plug.

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    Thanks for all the replys guys. I will replace all the plugs and wires in a few weeks. The car is just a toy and at the moment i dont have the time to go thru everything mentioned. I also think i am going to have the 02 sensors deleted from the computer as this seems to be another possible cause.

    Tom

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    Member Numba1TA's Avatar
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    +1 sounds like a coil pack to me

    1999 A4 WS6 Pewter, Hooker Long Tube Headers ,GMMG Catback Exhaust, QTP Off-road catted y-pipe, K&N FIPK Intake, GM 3.73's, Spohn Torque Arm,BMR LCA's Dyno Tune by PBJ.

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    if you replace the plugs and wires, swap around the coil packs and still have the same problem, might wanna check your valve springs, make sure you haven't colapsed one, then maybe a compression test.

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    Junior Member JKbride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Like 0rion stated, check the wires and plugs. It is possible that they accidentally cracked a plug or do not have a wire on all the way. Some guys have even had plugs that were not tight after being replaced by a shop. The wires should "click" once on the plugs and twice on the coils when properly installed. If you can not find anything wrong, wait until dark and then start the engine with the hood up. You can sometimes spot the problem as the spark will arc wherever the issue is.
    Just spent $80 to have a plug replaced...after looking and looking trying to figure out why we had a misfire code, it turned out to be a hair line fracture on a plug that was grounding out and not firing....ugh, should have looked under the hood at night and I would have seen it!

    Car now runs like a champ! In the end, I was looking for a big problem and did not consider something simple like a cracked insolator on a plug.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKbride View Post
    Just spent $80 to have a plug replaced...after looking and looking trying to figure out why we had a misfire code, it turned out to be a hair line fracture on a plug that was grounding out and not firing....ugh, should have looked under the hood at night and I would have seen it!

    Car now runs like a champ! In the end, I was looking for a big problem and did not consider something simple like a cracked insolator on a plug.
    That crack is from over tightening. Back off with the gorilla grip. Sucks you had to pay $80 to find out what it was but glad you fixed it.

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    another way to isolate a cylender fault is to run the motor and unplug each injector one at a time and watch for the change in sound of the motor. if it changes, that cylender is good, if it doesn't change, that's where the problem is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKbride View Post
    Just spent $80 to have a plug replaced...after looking and looking trying to figure out why we had a misfire code, it turned out to be a hair line fracture on a plug that was grounding out and not firing....ugh, should have looked under the hood at night and I would have seen it!

    Car now runs like a champ! In the end, I was looking for a big problem and did not consider something simple like a cracked insolator on a plug.

    Always better to eliminate the simple things before assuming the worst. Glad to hear you got it fixed.

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