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Lowered?

This is a discussion on Lowered? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; ^^ Agree. I run our car in the second hole right now. With recent upgrades though, traction will be more ...

  1. #21
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    ^^ Agree. I run our car in the second hole right now. With recent upgrades though, traction will be more of an issue on launches so I'll be bringing the arm down to the lowest hole.

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    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    ^^ Agree. I run our car in the second hole right now. With recent upgrades though, traction will be more of an issue on launches so I'll be bringing the arm down to the lowest hole.
    Well alright guys, thank you. So my list will be SFC, PHR, and then LTs and an ORY. For a dd, that should put me semi well with the bolt ons. Oh, and dyno/tuned of course. As far as the tires go, I wanted something that would last me more than 10k miles, as a DD, but have some pretty sick traction to it as well. I tried using that there search button and found GS D3's to be sufficient? Some people ran them on al 4, but most seemed to put something else up front. Nitto 555 extremes or something. I'll look into it once I need new tires but atm, that's not my priority.

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    Last of the Breed j nix's Avatar
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    You should add rear LCA's, front and rear sway bars and Strut tower brace. Make sure PHB is adjustable and 2 point SFC's should be all you need.
    Diablo Sport Predator Performance Tune | TB Bypass | Bilstein HD Shocks | Eibach Pro Kit | UMI SFC | UMI Rear LCA's and brackets | UMI adj PHB, UMI Front/Rear Sway Bars |UMI Strut Tower Brace | SLP Lid | SLP Loud Mouth with quad tips | High output alt

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Got your PM. I've been super busy. I will try to reply tomorrow!!

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    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j nix View Post
    You should add rear LCA's, front and rear sway bars and Strut tower brace. Make sure PHB is adjustable and 2 point SFC's should be all you need.
    Alright, I'll certainly look into it and trust me, a full suspension is in my future. Just, as a DD and not yet a track car, I really want the LT's and ORy for the extra sound and nice hp gain. I just wanted those 2 crucial suspension parts now because under stock power even those help. Eventually I'll definitely be getting rear LCAs, sways, stb, phr, sfc, ta, shocks/springs/struts, and the 12 bolt lol. Or 9". W.e
    Now that you mention all of that though, perhap I'll add the STB in before the LTs. They should be relatively cheap I'd imagine, any certain kind I should look into?

    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Got your PM. I've been super busy. I will try to reply tomorrow!!
    Alright, appreciate it man, thanks. That'd be of a lot of help.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Anthony -

    I'll just reply here so others can chime in if they feel the need to also voice their opinion (more opinions never hurt).

    If you are looking at UMI SFC's, you basically have 6 choices all together: 2 pt tubular, 2 pt box, 3 point and each of those come either in weld-in or bolt-on.

    It looks like from your profile picture you have a vert. I would suggest the 2 pt tubular at a minimum (these offer more clearance I believe on verts or the 3 pt). I have a t-top car and I chose to get 2 pt box style weld-in. The box style are stronger, but I believe on a vert you have to get the tubular style (I could be wrong).

    As far as the PHB, whatever you choose, get one that is adjustable. They offer adjustable off the car, and on the car. I chose the #2022; on the car with polyurethane bushings.

    Since I bought mine they came out with the "roto-joint", which a lot of people like.

    You really can't go wrong with anyone you choose. The only benefit with the "on car" adjustable one is of course, if you set it to the length you think it needs to be and then install it, and your rear end is not centered still, you can adjust it while it is still installed on the car. The others you have to remove to adjust it and then re-install it.

    I would probably get the #2037: roto-joint with polyurethane bushings that is on-car adjustable.

    Hope this helps!

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    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Anthony -

    I'll just reply here so others can chime in if they feel the need to also voice their opinion (more opinions never hurt).

    If you are looking at UMI SFC's, you basically have 6 choices all together: 2 pt tubular, 2 pt box, 3 point and each of those come either in weld-in or bolt-on.

    It looks like from your profile picture you have a vert. I would suggest the 2 pt tubular at a minimum (these offer more clearance I believe on verts or the 3 pt). I have a t-top car and I chose to get 2 pt box style weld-in. The box style are stronger, but I believe on a vert you have to get the tubular style (I could be wrong).

    As far as the PHB, whatever you choose, get one that is adjustable. They offer adjustable off the car, and on the car. I chose the #2022; on the car with polyurethane bushings.

    Since I bought mine they came out with the "roto-joint", which a lot of people like.

    You really can't go wrong with anyone you choose. The only benefit with the "on car" adjustable one is of course, if you set it to the length you think it needs to be and then install it, and your rear end is not centered still, you can adjust it while it is still installed on the car. The others you have to remove to adjust it and then re-install it.

    I would probably get the #2037: roto-joint with polyurethane bushings that is on-car adjustable.

    Hope this helps!
    Alright man thanks a lot, appreciate it. Though for what it's worth, my car is a T-Top. So I'll get the 2pt box that you mentioned. Does it really look like a vert? I don't like convertibles that much haha. I did figure on the car adjustable was one I was going to get, I just didn't know if turb or box would benefit more. Box it is. Again, thank you very much. I'll be getting a UMI STB as well I think. With a STB, PHR and SFCs, I think I'll be alright suspension wise to get my LT's and ORY. Once I have all of those, I may jump back to suspension. Unless there are other bolt ons hp wise I could do that don't involve h/c/i in order to be effective, eg, FAST.

  8. #28
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I personally would ditch the STB and put that money towards something else. From what I've gathered here over the years, they don't do anything other than look pretty under the hood

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    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I personally would ditch the STB and put that money towards something else. From what I've gathered here over the years, they don't do anything other than look pretty under the hood
    Oh Yeah? I mean STB funds can pay close for my ORY so I'm not complaining. Though I wouldn't mind having it just to say I got it haha. Hrm, well thanks. It seemed to be kind of be like a sway bar/sfc mixed for the shock towers. I wasn't about to doubt it though 'cause there's always something I don't know haha.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    My mods are in my signature. No STB here and my car handles like it's on rails...also goes straight pretty well too
    It's on jackstands.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    My mods are in my signature. No STB here and my car handles like it's on rails...also goes straight pretty well too
    That procharger is going to do wonders for you . Tuned as well I'm assuming? And out of curiosity, why did you put ORY, and then no cats separate? Great car though none the less. Hopefully mine will handle much better with sfcs/phr and some new rubber. I'll probably lower the LCAs down a hole while I'm at it. I'm so curious to see what I dyno after LT's and an ORY. I plan on gettnig pacesetter for the both pending funds, and once I do, should I get jethot to ensure they don't fail or do you think ceramic coating is sufficient?

    Edit:
    what is pst ds?

  12. #32
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    I have no idea why I did that

    Car is currently under construction with the Procharger being installed. Car is being street tuned and DYNO'd 3rd week of June. I have a thread in the FI section here.

    PST = Precision Shaft Technologies. DS = Drive Shaft

    Keep us up to date on your progress. You're going to be happy with those UMI pieces.

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    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I have no idea why I did that

    Car is currently under construction with the Procharger being installed. Car is being street tuned and DYNO'd 3rd week of June. I have a thread in the FI section here.

    PST = Precision Shaft Technologies. DS = Drive Shaft

    Keep us up to date on your progress. You're going to be happy with those UMI pieces.
    Damn man, well keep us/me updated with you as well. I can't wait to hear the numbers. Any idea what you're putting down right now? I'm curious to know what I'll put down after lts but I hear a lot of different things. Guess all engines are a little different.

    And I will, I'll look into buying them asap. I'll post pictures once it's all installed. I have a tendency to plan things wayyy in advance because I love cars but don't have the funds to do whatever whenever I want so... =P. Like I was going to do all this bolt on research and se what I can do to maximize performance once phr/sfc/lts/ory were put on. Idk what to do after that but, I suppose I should wait until I have those

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    DYNO numbers are in my sig of what the car currently has with only LT's, lid, and exhaust. Those numbers are on a Mustang DYNO (which is more real life as opposed to a DynoJet) and through a 9" rear, which is the least efficient rear end.

    I'm shooting for about 550rwhp/tq with the Procharger and low 11's at the track.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    DYNO numbers are in my sig of what the car currently has with only LT's, lid, and exhaust. Those numbers are on a Mustang DYNO (which is more real life as opposed to a DynoJet) and through a 9" rear, which is the least efficient rear end.

    I'm shooting for about 550rwhp/tq with the Procharger and low 11's at the track.
    I saw the numbers too, idk why I asked -.- . Why are Mustang dynos more real life? I don't understand how there could be discrepency. And 9" is the least efficient? You mean in comparison to a 12 bolt? Would that alter your dyno?

    On the other note, I'd assume with DR's and 550+ whp/tq you could do much.. much better than 11's o.O. I wouldn't even see low 10's as out there.

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    2002 Arctic White T/A Ws6islife's Avatar
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    Maybe all they did was chopped up the springs??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ant71130 View Post
    I saw the numbers too, idk why I asked -.- . Why are Mustang dynos more real life? I don't understand how there could be discrepency. And 9" is the least efficient? You mean in comparison to a 12 bolt? Would that alter your dyno?

    On the other note, I'd assume with DR's and 550+ whp/tq you could do much.. much better than 11's o.O. I wouldn't even see low 10's as out there.
    10's will not be possible with that power level, even with slicks. I'm a M6. The fastest time I've ever seen was 11.09 and that was with an experienced drag racer on full slicks.

    9" is the least efficient out of any rear end for our cars. it takes the most HP to turn. It's 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt and 3% less than the 12 bolt.

    Google Mustang Dyno vs. DynoJet and you'll see why a Mustang Dyno is different. It accounts for parasitic loss.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    10's will not be possible with that power level, even with slicks. I'm a M6. The fastest time I've ever seen was 11.09 and that was with an experienced drag racer on full slicks.

    9" is the least efficient out of any rear end for our cars. it takes the most HP to turn. It's 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt and 3% less than the 12 bolt.

    Google Mustang Dyno vs. DynoJet and you'll see why a Mustang Dyno is different. It accounts for parasitic loss.
    I see, I had no idea. Thanks for the info.
    But... I just can't imagine almost 600whp not breaking 11's. Z06's break 11.5 stock at ~420 whp. I mean vettes are different, IRS and what not but.. in a straight line? It's just crazy for me to think. Is it just because of human error?

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    Going from 13.5 to 13 is NOT the same as trying to go from 11.5 to 11.0

    That's the difference.

    Yes, each one is cutting 0.5 off the time, but once you get into the 11's or faster...it takes a lot more than just HP/TQ to get those lower numbers.

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    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Going from 13.5 to 13 is NOT the same as trying to go from 11.5 to 11.0

    That's the difference.

    Yes, each one is cutting 0.5 off the time, but once you get into the 11's or faster...it takes a lot more than just HP/TQ to get those lower numbers.
    Oh I know. I guess I just figured over 100hp more and custom rubber could achieve that. But as understood, a ZR1 and Z06 have similar 1/4's with a huge hp difference so, I understand where you're coming from. Alright, thanks for the clarification

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