This is a discussion on Lowered? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; ^^ Agree. I run our car in the second hole right now. With recent upgrades though, traction will be more ...
05-30-2011, 06:16 PM #21
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Mansfield, PA
Black & Blue
- '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban
^^ Agree. I run our car in the second hole right now. With recent upgrades though, traction will be more of an issue on launches so I'll be bringing the arm down to the lowest hole.
05-31-2011, 04:07 AM #22
05-31-2011, 02:13 PM #23
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Farmington Hills, MI
Navy Blue Metallic
- 2002 Trans Am WS6 NBM
You should add rear LCA's, front and rear sway bars and Strut tower brace. Make sure PHB is adjustable and 2 point SFC's should be all you need.Diablo Sport Predator Performance Tune | TB Bypass | Bilstein HD Shocks | Eibach Pro Kit | UMI SFC | UMI Rear LCA's and brackets | UMI adj PHB, UMI Front/Rear Sway Bars |UMI Strut Tower Brace | SLP Lid | SLP Loud Mouth with quad tips | High output alt
05-31-2011, 03:32 PM #24
Got your PM. I've been super busy. I will try to reply tomorrow!!
06-01-2011, 04:12 AM #25
Now that you mention all of that though, perhap I'll add the STB in before the LTs. They should be relatively cheap I'd imagine, any certain kind I should look into?
06-01-2011, 06:03 AM #26
I'll just reply here so others can chime in if they feel the need to also voice their opinion (more opinions never hurt).
If you are looking at UMI SFC's, you basically have 6 choices all together: 2 pt tubular, 2 pt box, 3 point and each of those come either in weld-in or bolt-on.
It looks like from your profile picture you have a vert. I would suggest the 2 pt tubular at a minimum (these offer more clearance I believe on verts or the 3 pt). I have a t-top car and I chose to get 2 pt box style weld-in. The box style are stronger, but I believe on a vert you have to get the tubular style (I could be wrong).
As far as the PHB, whatever you choose, get one that is adjustable. They offer adjustable off the car, and on the car. I chose the #2022; on the car with polyurethane bushings.
Since I bought mine they came out with the "roto-joint", which a lot of people like.
You really can't go wrong with anyone you choose. The only benefit with the "on car" adjustable one is of course, if you set it to the length you think it needs to be and then install it, and your rear end is not centered still, you can adjust it while it is still installed on the car. The others you have to remove to adjust it and then re-install it.
I would probably get the #2037: roto-joint with polyurethane bushings that is on-car adjustable.
Hope this helps!
06-01-2011, 06:46 AM #27
06-01-2011, 06:51 AM #28
I personally would ditch the STB and put that money towards something else. From what I've gathered here over the years, they don't do anything other than look pretty under the hood
06-01-2011, 06:56 AM #29
06-01-2011, 06:58 AM #30
My mods are in my signature. No STB here and my car handles like it's on rails...also goes straight pretty well tooIt's stock.
06-01-2011, 07:05 AM #31
what is pst ds?
06-01-2011, 07:29 AM #32
I have no idea why I did that
Car is currently under construction with the Procharger being installed. Car is being street tuned and DYNO'd 3rd week of June. I have a thread in the FI section here.
PST = Precision Shaft Technologies. DS = Drive Shaft
Keep us up to date on your progress. You're going to be happy with those UMI pieces.
06-01-2011, 07:39 AM #33
And I will, I'll look into buying them asap. I'll post pictures once it's all installed. I have a tendency to plan things wayyy in advance because I love cars but don't have the funds to do whatever whenever I want so... =P. Like I was going to do all this bolt on research and se what I can do to maximize performance once phr/sfc/lts/ory were put on. Idk what to do after that but, I suppose I should wait until I have those
06-01-2011, 07:59 AM #34
DYNO numbers are in my sig of what the car currently has with only LT's, lid, and exhaust. Those numbers are on a Mustang DYNO (which is more real life as opposed to a DynoJet) and through a 9" rear, which is the least efficient rear end.
I'm shooting for about 550rwhp/tq with the Procharger and low 11's at the track.
06-01-2011, 08:39 AM #35
On the other note, I'd assume with DR's and 550+ whp/tq you could do much.. much better than 11's o.O. I wouldn't even see low 10's as out there.
06-01-2011, 09:43 AM #36
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Houston , Texas
- 2002 SLP Firehawk
Maybe all they did was chopped up the springs??
06-01-2011, 10:23 AM #37
9" is the least efficient out of any rear end for our cars. it takes the most HP to turn. It's 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt and 3% less than the 12 bolt.
Google Mustang Dyno vs. DynoJet and you'll see why a Mustang Dyno is different. It accounts for parasitic loss.
06-01-2011, 11:10 AM #38
But... I just can't imagine almost 600whp not breaking 11's. Z06's break 11.5 stock at ~420 whp. I mean vettes are different, IRS and what not but.. in a straight line? It's just crazy for me to think. Is it just because of human error?
06-01-2011, 11:17 AM #39
Going from 13.5 to 13 is NOT the same as trying to go from 11.5 to 11.0
That's the difference.
Yes, each one is cutting 0.5 off the time, but once you get into the 11's or faster...it takes a lot more than just HP/TQ to get those lower numbers.
06-01-2011, 11:26 AM #40
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By MrMasterCraft in forum Suspension and HandlingReplies: 4Last Post: 02-12-2010, 09:19 AM
By outtacontrolz28 in forum Suspension and HandlingReplies: 19Last Post: 07-03-2008, 09:08 PM
By GottaHaveLS1 in forum Wheels and TiresReplies: 3Last Post: 03-30-2008, 11:00 AM
By Wikid NaSSty in forum Wheels and TiresReplies: 15Last Post: 09-02-2006, 03:42 PM
By rbrack in forum Suspension and HandlingReplies: 7Last Post: 08-29-2005, 08:00 PM