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longtube headers which size

This is a discussion on longtube headers which size within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Looking to get long tube headers...should i get 1 7/8 or 1 3/4? Im slowing adding to car so far ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member Twixter08's Avatar
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    longtube headers which size

    Looking to get long tube headers...should i get 1 7/8 or 1 3/4? Im slowing adding to car so far its stock and have a slp lid on its way. Future just gonna be ported 243 heads 92 intake and cam. Looking for 430rwhp area daily driver. Explain what to pros or cons are for sizes and why i should get what for better understanding. 2002 ws6 trans am 6 speed ls1
    Last edited by Twixter08; 11-08-2015 at 05:39 AM. Reason: car info

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    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    1 7/8 will flow better. No real reason not to use them unless you are just doing bolt ons. But once you start doing heads and cams the 1 7/8 produce better hp then the 3/4. Many will say the 7/8 hurts you if you have no mods beyond bolt ons but I've seen plenty of dyno sheets showing that they don't hurt you. Big debates on these over the years that you can look up. Not at home doing this on my phone so can't get you the links myself. Will say the difference between the two are not that big till you get into high hp or forced induction. Unless your going for every hp you can get and racing the car I wouldn't worry too much over it. But my personal philosophy is do it right the first time and pick something that won't hinder you as your mod list grows.
    Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Size wise Chase said it.

    Stainless Steel > Ceramic > Painted. In fact I would only recommend painted if you were going to wrap the headers and use it on a race car.


    You also need to match the Y pipe to the heads. Kooks are the best and the most $$. I've had no complaints about my Pacesetter headers & ORY. TS&P has a good ORY too.

    Your biggest problem will be TX emissions. Can't remember if they do a visual or just read off the the ecm. You can get the rear O2's tuned out with a mail order tune. A good CAT Back Muffler will help too.
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    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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    Senior Member Whamhammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Size wise Chase said it.

    Stainless Steel > Ceramic > Painted. In fact I would only recommend painted if you were going to wrap the headers and use it on a race car.


    You also need to match the Y pipe to the heads. Kooks are the best and the most $$. I've had no complaints about my Pacesetter headers & ORY. TS&P has a good ORY too.

    Your biggest problem will be TX emissions. Can't remember if they do a visual or just read off the the ecm. You can get the rear O2's tuned out with a mail order tune. A good CAT Back Muffler will help too.
    Is there any reason why he cant get a set of headers, keep cats and 02's on the car, and stay legal? I'd doubt a visual inspection that uses a mirror could even notice a header, especially since theyd probably be looking more for the cats to be there or not.

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    Junior Member Twixter08's Avatar
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    My guy who does my inspection just checks lights and blinkers and im done lol.

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    I haven't touched the intake, heads or internals on our car and I opted for the 1-7/8" Kooks. Like you, there are more upgrades planned for down the road.

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    Member RichWS6's Avatar
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    Important note on Long tubes on a 4th Gen, if you are changing out the Y-pipe as well make sure to get one that is fabbed up so that it will not bang on the floorboard on the drivers side, it happens and it will drive you insane, some of the good ones I have seen were both Texas speed ORY and I believe either hooker or pacesetter makes good ones as well. You will see on the picture of the y pipe it is squished or ovalled out in two places on the drivers side of the Y-pipe.

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    Junior Member Twixter08's Avatar
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    Im wanting to do away with the y pipe and run an x pipe to true duals out the back.

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    Junior Member Twixter08's Avatar
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    So i was looking at American racing headers, kooks headers, texas speed performance headers. Im not skimping on price of building on this car. Ill have it for a very long time. Also say my ls1 blows and i buy a ls7/ls3motor. Will ls1 header fit a ls7/ls3 block?

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    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    Yeah they will fit. You can do duals the cheap way or the expensive way. Cheapest way out the back is having a shop fabb up a set for you. But let me tell you after talking to several shops around here most will say it's not possible even after I showed them pictures. So take your time and choose the right place. Some shops will do it under the axel a good or great shop will do it over. You can make more room for them by getting a pan hard bar relocation kit for a couple hundred from various vendors. Easiest and most expensive way to get true duals out the back is buy the kit from kooks. Other option that comes as a complete kit is Texas speed true duals that are dumped at the axel.

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    If I had to go with duals I would probably invest in Kooks. Honestly though, the electric cutout in the mid-pipe gives me complete control of the exhaust, plus it weighs a whole lot less than true duals and does not take up a whole bunch of real estate under the car.

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    Member speedyWS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    If I had to go with duals I would probably invest in Kooks. Honestly though, the electric cutout in the mid-pipe gives me complete control of the exhaust, plus it weighs a whole lot less than true duals and does not take up a whole bunch of real estate under the car.
    Tis a whole bunch of fun too!!

    Nutball likes this.

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    Yes, it is.

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    Junior Member Twixter08's Avatar
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    Kooks true duals ill definitely look into that! Not very knowledgeable on electric cut outs ill have to read up on those and how they are installed. Would kooks true duals mount to any lt header if i found a smoking deal on a different maker? I've been watching around to find a killer deal on lt's lol

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    Personally, I would go all Kooks if you do in fact install true duals. Granted you may have to see your loan officer to buy the system but their stuff is top notch.

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    Member 1998 T/A's Avatar
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    the difference is so miniscule...Personally I did 1 3/4 pacesetters, couldn't tell ya how their coated because they are wrapped. Everyone has brand loyalty but I'd do a 230 dollar set of pacesetters any day
    98' Trans AM RIP

    00' WS6/Black/Pacesetter LT's/Magnaflow Exhaust/SLP lid/Nick Williams 92mm TB/FAST 92 Intake/BMR Strut Tower Brace/BMR Rear LCA's/BMR Panhard Bar

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    Member cowstandmoto's Avatar
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    Hey Dillon. Welcome to the site. I use 1 7/8" dia. in my long tubes. No complaints

  18. #18
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Money no object = Kooks
    Money is - then Pacesetter's with the ceramic coating you can't go wrong. I've had them since 09' and still got my money's worth

    A few guys recommend the ebay stainless steel headers but I can't, I've seen a couple of local guys near me that HAD them. Had issues with the welds. Not saying they are Chinese knock-offs just what I saw.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    So...

    I've been turning this over in my head for a while now. With machined heads (799, stage 1) and a mild cam, will 1-7/8 yield more power than 1-3/4? Or am I still at a point where the extra flow is inconsequential? If I do anything else to the engine, it will be headers/mid-pipe and that will probably complete the build. In case it matters, it's making 360 at the wheels now (through the stock manifolds).
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  20. #20
    Junior Member Twixter08's Avatar
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    So I'm thinking of trying something out. Arh lt 1-7/8ths to a catted x pipe from tsp to dual slp lm1 resonators out the back with corsa 3.5 tips. Have my muffler guy fab up the pipe for the back half.

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