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Thread: Leaky front turn signal lights?
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07-06-2010, 10:09 AM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Virginia Beach, Virginia
- Posts
- 145
Black- 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
Leaky front turn signal lights?
OK, I am on my second 2000 T/A. In 2006, my first one had turn signal problems after driving in a heavy storm. Both lights filled up with water and shorted out. I paid the dealer to fix them since I was making crazy money then and didn't have the time to do the work myself. Fast forward to the present and I notice what looks like water in the turn signals again. Does anyone know of a easy fix other than taking the car somewhere and paying to have it repaired. The driver's side rear light is a bathtube as well but I bought a replacement off of E-Bay, I wish I had the time to fix that but here in sunny VA Beach it has been super hot and old guys like me don't tolerate heat well. Thanks.
Scott
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07-06-2010, 10:20 AM #2
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- culver city, Ca.
- Posts
- 460
Blackened fire chicken- 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
i know they make tinted light covers for the front turn signals and fog lights if that might help keep out water (maybe a little bit)...its easy replacing those lights, you dont even have to jack up the car really, just unscrew the bolts holding the plastic under side covers that are right under the turn signal lights
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07-06-2010, 10:25 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- Northeastern, NC
- Posts
- 21
WS6 Black Convertible- 2001 Trans Am
Hey NavyTATwo - Thanks for serving(?) There has been a lot of discussion about this problem. I have an 01 TA - did the same, cost me @$55 to replace the socket assy that was damaged beyond repair. Problem - the bulb gets hot and may crack the clear plastic lense - which happened to me. Thus the water enters through the cracked lense and eventually causes havoc inside the light assy. I clipped off the old wires and used solderless connectors to splice the wires. I'll get back in there to make the connections waterproof.
There may be an LED replacement kit out there to replacement the filament bulb, but I'm not absolutely sure on that.
Search this site and/or google it on line. Good luck, appreciate your service to our country.
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07-06-2010, 10:27 AM #4
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07-06-2010, 10:29 AM #5
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Location
- Alpharetta, Ga
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 1,060
04 Cobra 'vert - M6 mysti- 02 WS6 coupe - A4 red
yep as he says above the overall source of the issue is the heat of the bulb. Filling the socket with dielectric grease before putting the bulb in can help prevent the water from shorting out the bulb/socket. I have had good experience with that, it's definitely helped but it's not a guaranteed preventative.
I know I've seen a thread or two from people who have done something to the casing to fix/prevent cracks. Not sure if it was here or on ls1tech but you might want to try searching for that if you haven't already...
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07-06-2010, 11:42 AM #6
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Muncie, IN
- Posts
- 2,554
00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM- 80 TA BLK, 80 Formula NBM
the only two real solutions. . . turn off the drl's or convert to leds. . . i like our drl's, myself, so converted to led's. New housings, new sockets (if melted), led's, electronic flasher, and led protectors ends up bein about $150.
No problems since. . .
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07-06-2010, 01:55 PM #7
I went to autozone and paid like 8 bucks for a new socket. You have to know what youre going after though because its not in their computer. I then took some clear silicone and put a real thin coat over the cracks in the lens itself. Entire project took less than a half hour and havent had any problems since.
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07-07-2010, 03:18 AM #8
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Virginia Beach, Virginia
- Posts
- 145
Black- 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
Thanks for all of the help everybody! OBX TA, yeah I am a Navy vet. Did my 20 and retired in 2005 but I still work for the Navy, this time as a contractor.
ScottLast edited by NavyTATwo; 07-13-2010 at 03:17 AM.
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07-08-2010, 11:35 AM #9
I just disconnected the drl's since they looked stupid anyway and that cuts the heat down. Then I got some white LED buls to match the HID's better and get a electronic flasher from any auto store for under $5. Most carry new plugs for between $6 and $8. I have tinted covers forthe front for now but I got a set of aftermarket replacement housings for $50 or $60 sitting in my garage waiting to be installed.
1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
02 Trailblazer -Sold
09 Ram 1500 CC - Sold
09 Cobalt SS/TC - Sold
13 ram 1500 LoneStar CC 4x4 - Magnaflow, K&N,and more to come-DD/Toy
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07-10-2010, 02:23 AM #10
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Age
- 61
- Posts
- 5,188
Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
I found the problem on my car to be a crack on the top of the lens assembly. Took it out, only marginally harder than replacing the bulb itself. The heat warped and cracked the top, not the front, I sealed it with some RTV silicone and no problems since. Thought about buying new ones, but nobody will ever see it unless it comes out.
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07-12-2010, 12:40 PM #11
had the same problem with mine while road tripping across the states to a new duty station. had to pay the dealer 117.00 for the socket!!! glad to here that there are cheaper ways to fix this problem may be a stupid question but will the led conversionheat up and crack its lense too?
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07-12-2010, 01:13 PM #12
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Age
- 61
- Posts
- 5,188
Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
^^^no. LEDs are way cooler.
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07-16-2010, 06:52 PM #13
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- San Diego, CA
- Age
- 44
- Posts
- 9
Artic White- 2000 T/A
LEDs don't generate anywhere near as much heat as incandescent bulbs. So it won't be a problem.
I just replaced both DRL housings ($28 each) and both sockets ($9 each) to stop blowing fuses and bulbs. On top of that I decided to go LED to prevent this from happening again (48 LED SMT switchback towers from Autolumination.com: $28 each) and updated the flashers while I was at it ($10 each). In the end it cost a little bit more, but so far no more problems!
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