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Just trying to figure out a list for 450HP

This is a discussion on Just trying to figure out a list for 450HP within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; you both are correct, I just mean all season for central TX which would be using some Nitto 555's, which ...

  1. #41
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    you both are correct, I just mean all season for central TX which would be using some Nitto 555's,
    which you both didn't know I was meaning for central TX that was my fault.
    When I was station up at Fort Lewis, WA I ran DR's all the time and it would rain there a lot,
    but now for me its only wanting to run DR's on spare tires for the track

    ASh

  2. #42
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    So I got around to pulling off the air intake and maf, all the way to the TB, took the screen out of the MAF and who ever had it before me did the free ram air mod. so I'm happy about that. Now to get a SLP lid down the road
    I'm not going to P&P TB, but if I do get a TB I will just get one down the road.
    for performance need to do LT's, mid-pipe, SLP lid,

    ASh

  3. #43
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ASh302 View Post
    So I got around to pulling off the air intake and maf, all the way to the TB, took the screen out of the MAF
    I really hope you didn't remove the screen on your MAF. That was a very bad idea if you did.
    It's on jackstands.

  4. #44
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I was going to say that as well. Looking at my setup I now need to figure out how to do a screen for it. I will have no MAF, going SD.

    I think I need to ask FBJ how he did his.

  5. #45
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I really hope you didn't remove the screen on your MAF. That was a very bad idea if you did.
    I second this. Sometime after I installed my SLP lid, the little foam piece that goes around the edge to seal it got sucked up into the MAF. The screen stopped it.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  6. #46
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Not only that, but the screen is there so the airflow is smoother (less turbulence) - this allows the air entering the motor to be metered properly. The air filter should filter the system, unless you have a rare instance where something enters past the air filter such as in Naamans case.

    From Frost:

    Porting the MAF RUINS it, so do the ported MAF ends. They make them inconsistent, non-repeatable in measurement and jack your fueling WAY out until you retune for them. A 40% change in fueling is insane, and that's what you can expect. Don't take my word for it though, look at this guy: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-di...ar-dies-2.html Unhooks his 'ported' MAF and his trims go from +35 to +45% down to 4% in SD with the MAF unhooked. I junk about 1-2 MAFs a month for customers who have 'ported' them and now they won't run the same AFR twice in a row on the dyno to save their lives.

    There is just not some big gain to be had by jacking the MAF around. I don't understand the high volume of threads that concern this. The MAF is a [once] calibrated sensor that is directly responsible for fuel delivery to the car. How can you 'port' a MAF and have any idea of it's impact without the software to log before and after and fix the AFR change that you cause when you mod them?

  7. #47
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    ok well I guess I messed this up, it was part of the "free mods" list
    now from what I read on what you copy was about porting the MAF, not taking the screen out, I would feel there was a diff from this of the two.
    now are most of you saying the screen remove, because of stuff coming into the motor?

    ASh

  8. #48
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    ok so took off the MAF and added the screen back in.
    I understand that the cons out weight the pros from it,
    I'm planning on SLP lid and the SLP bellow and that we safer than no screen

    ASh

  9. #49
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Yes, the off chance of something making it through the MAF could be disastrous. Other that that, Jon is saying that the more immediate concern is that the screen helps to regulate the airflow through the MAF and aids in accurate air metering. If the air metering is messed up, then your fuel trims will be messed up, causing the PCM to dump tons more fuel into the engine because it thinks there is more air than what really is coming in.

    The smooth bellow is an okay mod. Don't expect to notice a difference on the butt dyno, though.

  10. #50
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    ok thanks

    ASh

  11. #51
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    order my SLP air lid,

    ASh
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  12. #52
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Do not touch your MAF. Leave it stock.
    I tried to warn you

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I tried to warn you
    I just wanted to be able to have you tell me "I told you so" lol
    its all good it is back in there, on suspension right now, slowly but surly will get that done.

    ASh
    2002 auto T/A custom blue, Moser 9in rear end with 31 spline axle and 3.73 gears, Diablo Sport InTune, SLP LM1 catback, SLP lid & bellow, ram air free mod, eibach pro kit springs, bilstein hd shocks, bmr rear sway bar, bmr 2pt SFC bolt on, silver checker stripes 17x9.5 C5 Vette rims.

  14. #54
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    I forgot to mention that I got on the way the bellow, but also my SLP lid showed up today.

    ASh
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  15. #55
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    The only reason you'd want the SLP lid for an 02 is because it has a hole in it for the AIR hose, You'll need to plug that hole. You're also going to want to trim out the base of the air cleaner for more airflow. This applies more to a Camaro than a TA so maybe not.

    Something nobody has talked about yet is putting that power to the ground. I had really bad wheel hop and had to use an adjustable torque arm so I could adjust the pinion angle to eliminate it. Better to use a body mount type as this takes the stress off of the transmission tail shaft.

    Also, regarding the A4 transmission: If it has more than 50k miles and has seen any track time I'd bet, although it seems fine, it could use a refresh and upgrade to better parts. Mine was working fine and I did a 3400 stall at 40k miles and, since the tranny was out anyway, had the shop open it up to see what it looked like. I had been racing it since it had 29k miles on it and the clutches were going and the sun shell was cracked. I upgraded to a stainless steel sun shell, racing clutches, better sprag, and I had a shift kit installed along with reprogramming the computer to delete torque something or other. This tranny is still in the car and even though most of the car is back to stock it still shifts really hard.

    Another thing to think about are sub frame connectors. You want to be able to close the doors 20k miles from now, yes? Well, these cars have a "Twist-o-flex" frame, which means they have no frame at all (unibody construction). Weld in versions are preferable over bolt in type.

    There is much more to this than just bolt-ons to the engine...
    67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...

    2005 Corvette LS2/M6 Magnetic Red Metallic (What else would it be?) w/ Cashmere interior

    2002 Z28: NBM/Tan, MTI smooth lid, smooth bellows, !AIR, !cats, 1-3/4" QTP SS LT's, 2-1/2" TD's with X-pipe, MagnaFlows dumped at axle, custom welded SFC's, MidWest Chassis body mount adjustable T/A, 3400 stall, 3.23 gears (was 2.73). Tuned: 343rwhp/357rwt (before TD's). Best: 12.559 @ 108+, 1.73 60' @ 3500' DA w/MT ET Street DR's.

    Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!

  16. #56
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Jim we've already discussed most of what you said in a couple of other threads he's posted. He's taken care of most of what you suggested.

    Car is in good hands...

  17. #57
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Jim we've already discussed most of what you said in a couple of other threads he's posted. He's taken care of most of what you suggested.

    Car is in good hands...
    Even still... It's good to know that he cares!

  18. #58
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    Lol thanks guys for covering that the car is 113k miles, bought around 109k miles
    Ok so don't laugh at engine bay area, it needs some tlc soon
    They that had it before me battery got blue on it and hood struts got blue, driver side one is not so good so got new hood struts in the mail. Also when it did just come out of body shop this time it had so much dust i have not clean it really, soon i will but one can see the silver it once was and that is why I'm going with the silver stripes so it's not cracked out looking.
    Ok phone not working out need computer

    ASh
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20150317_173220.jpg  

  19. #59
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    I guess it did upload one
    [IMG][/IMG]

    ASh

  20. #60
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    67CamaroRSSS, thanks for your input, there is much that needs to be built on to my T/A and have gain a lot of information from other members, I also got working on the suspension stuff, but did buy the bolt on SFC, which many of the guys suggested it first, which they will be on there before I hit the track, I do not know how much track time the car has had or how it was treated, which I just picked it up not to long ago and been adding things to it and plus a little TLC at the same time. really the next thing on engine wise needs to be heads and cam combo, but that will be for a later date. I'm looking at what ever HP numbers will get me to mid-low 11s on DR's down the road, that is the goal as of right now and I am holding off on Trans till it breaks and then get a built one with a different stall, same with engine probably, but idk which one will come first on it.

    Thank you very much for your reply as I am open to all suggestion and coming over to the LS1 has been a lot of learning compared to Ford stuff I was use to, but I'm enjoying it and enjoying the people on the forum.

    ASh

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