I have $1000.

**MistrCreazil** · 11-13-2009, 09:06 AM

What should I get done to my DD (not during winter)?

Mods so far include:
-Complete Borla Catback
-MTI Airlid

I'm 99% sure everything else is stock WS6.

Also keep in mind labor cost, Im not a whiz with mechanics.

**Zinergy** · 11-13-2009, 09:12 AM

long tube headers, short shifter(if not optioned) and a tune.

**MistrCreazil** · 11-13-2009, 09:18 AM

Forgot to mention it's an auto. I was either thinking an LS6 intake and LTs... OR SFCs and lowering springs and a set of slightly used koni shocks.

Would the LTs and a tune net me a pretty sizeable kick vs the LT / intake?

**Zinergy** · 11-13-2009, 09:26 AM

Originally Posted by MistrCreazil

Forgot to mention it's an auto. I was either thinking an LS6 intake and LTs... OR SFCs and lowering springs and a set of slightly used koni shocks.

Would the LTs and a tune net me a pretty sizeable kick vs the LT / intake?

It would be somewhat close but a tune is my favorite mod, it wakes the car up in more than just power. I never saw doing a ls6 intake upgrade as a great mod, there are many better intakes out there and if you ever wanna make some real power you would want better than a ls6 intake anyway.

**00LS12LS6Z28** · 11-13-2009, 09:26 AM

Do you have aftermarket wheels or stock? If you have stock do you plan on changing them? If you have wheels, I would say do the suspension (springs and sfc's). Otherwise do the longtubes.

**bluehawk2000** · 11-13-2009, 09:27 AM

LT/intake and tune will give you a notice able gain, And even just longtubes since they do restrict the motor so much matter of fact.

**bluehawk2000** · 11-13-2009, 09:29 AM

Originally Posted by Zinergy

It would be somewhat close but a tune is my favorite mod, it wakes the car up in more than just power. I never saw doing a ls6 intake upgrade as a great mod, there are many better intakes out there and if you ever wanna make some real power you would want better than a ls6 intake anyway.

Like he said I would go with a fast intake if it was me, thats on my mod list for when I get home along with about 5 thousand worth of other parts.

**TransAm11973** · 11-13-2009, 09:45 AM

Originally Posted by MistrCreazil

Forgot to mention it's an auto. I was either thinking an LS6 intake and LTs... OR SFCs and lowering springs and a set of slightly used koni shocks.

Would the LTs and a tune net me a pretty sizeable kick vs the LT / intake?

no point at getting a new intake if you dont have LT's yet,....as much as you engine needs to breath in, it also need to exhale as well....with the money you are dealing with now your best bet is to get LT's, an ory, and a tune if you have $$ left

**Zinergy** · 11-13-2009, 09:51 AM

Originally Posted by TransAm11973

no point at getting a new intake if you dont have LT's yet,....as much as you engine needs to breath in, it also need to exhale as well....with the money you are dealing with now your best bet is to get LT's, an ory, and a tune if you have $$ left

+1 I got my first tune after long tubes, intake, full exhaust and comparing the car with those mods before and after the tune i really felt the car wake up after the tune.

**SINISTER-TA** · 11-13-2009, 10:03 AM

Since it's an auto... I would get a converter and a tune. It will make the biggest difference and it will feel like a whole different car hands down.

**Zinergy** · 11-13-2009, 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by SINISTER-TA

Since it's an auto... I would get a converter and a tune. It will make the biggest difference and it will feel like a whole different car hands down.

depends on what the OP is looking for. A stall is a good way to kill a stock tranny/rear end. Nto to mention a stall with labor usually come out to be a little more than 1k.

**justinmc978** · 11-13-2009, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by Zinergy

depends on what the OP is looking for. A stall is a good way to kill a stock tranny/rear end. Nto to mention a stall with labor usually come out to be a little more than 1k.

with 275 or less tires, shouldnt be huge problem with the stock rear, as for the tranny those things just seem to drop out randomly, i've seen 500hp cars using the orignal stock one just fine

**SINISTER-TA** · 11-13-2009, 10:15 AM

Originally Posted by Zinergy

depends on what the OP is looking for. A stall is a good way to kill a stock tranny/rear end. Nto to mention a stall with labor usually come out to be a little more than 1k.

Saying that a stall will kill a stock tranny and rearend is not true at all. It all depends on how the car will be used. Swapping the converter is not hard at all. I did mine in a day in my garage myself.

**MistrCreazil** · 11-13-2009, 10:48 AM

I do have wheels. TTMs, 17". I'm stuck on LTs and a tune.. Or lowering and SFC.

**Zinergy** · 11-13-2009, 11:03 AM

Originally Posted by MistrCreazil

I do have wheels. TTMs, 17". I'm stuck on LTs and a tune.. Or lowering and SFC.

Both are good options. Thats a tough one. Me personally i like the power and sound of the long tubes with a the tune. Borla and long tubes is great.

**Zinergy** · 11-13-2009, 11:04 AM

Originally Posted by justinmc978

with 275 or less tires, shouldnt be huge problem with the stock rear, as for the tranny those things just seem to drop out randomly, i've seen 500hp cars using the orignal stock one just fine

True with slimmer street tires wouldn't be as damaging, but then that defeats half the purpose of the stall. Being able to launch hard is where time is shaved off with a stall upgrade.

Im just naming off weak points and since the OP seems to be more a street oriented guy I dont see a stall fitting into his plans for a summer DD that needs to be reliable. Hell my rear end in my T/A held a couple 4500rpm launchs on drag radials and 430whp. It never broke while i owned it atleast.

**SINISTER-TA** · 11-13-2009, 12:20 PM

Originally Posted by Zinergy

True with slimmer street tires wouldn't be as damaging, but then that defeats half the purpose of the stall. Being able to launch hard is where time is shaved off with a stall upgrade.

Im just naming off weak points and since the OP seems to be more a street oriented guy I dont see a stall fitting into his plans for a summer DD that needs to be reliable. Hell my rear end in my T/A held a couple 4500rpm launchs on drag radials and 430whp. It never broke while i owned it atleast.

I know many guy's who DD a stalled A4. As long as you install a tranny cooler and use good fluid, it will be fine. A stall is worth up to .5 tenths at the track, and will produce a much better "seat of the pants feel" then just installing some long tube headers. A good stall would run $6-$700, and depending on where he goes for a tune, he would be right at his 1k budget. This is of course if he chose to install the converter himself. I'm sure there are plenty of people around where he lives that would lend a hand if he needed it. It's not hard at all.

My car puts down over 500 to the wheels. I currently run a stalled A4 (Yank 3600) on a near stock tranny and rearend. The only mods to the tranny is a trans go valve body kit and B&M cooler. The rearend has a TA girdle. I have run a few passed down the track with DR's with no issues. My car is not a DD but I would feel confortable driving it just about anywhere.

I'm not trying to dog ya, but sometimes people put out alot of bogus info.

**Zinergy** · 11-13-2009, 12:32 PM

Originally Posted by SINISTER-TA

I know many guy's who DD a stalled A4. As long as you install a tranny cooler and use good fluid, it will be fine. A stall is worth up to .5 tenths at the track, and will produce a much better "seat of the pants feel" then just installing some long tube headers. A good stall would run $6-$700, and depending on where he goes for a tune, he would be right at his 1k budget. This is of course if he chose to install the converter himself. I'm sure there are plenty of people around where he lives that would lend a hand if he needed it. It's not hard at all.

My car puts down over 500 to the wheels. I currently run a stalled A4 (Yank 3600) on a near stock tranny and rearend. The only mods to the tranny is a trans go valve body kit and B&M cooler. The rearend has a TA girdle. I have run a few passed down the track with DR's with no issues. My car is not a DD but I would feel confortable driving it just about anywhere.

I'm not trying to dog ya, but sometimes people put out alot of bogus info.

I know guys who DD'd stalled cars aswell, they arent bad. The OP doesnt seem like hes interested in doing his own installs or using a stall.

**MistrCreazil** · 11-13-2009, 01:25 PM

Originally Posted by Zinergy

I know guys who DD'd stalled cars aswell, they arent bad. The OP doesnt seem like hes interested in doing his own installs or using a stall.

I'd like a stall, eventually. I'm just nervous because Im on a tight budget and I don't like a lot of risk unless I can replace what (may) breaks on me due to high(er) hp and hard launches.

Maybe someday

**nhraformula** · 11-13-2009, 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by Zinergy

depends on what the OP is looking for. A stall is a good way to kill a stock tranny/rear end.

That is not true at all. Ive had my stall for over 4 years and i have a stock rear and tranny.

The best mod for an automatic is a stall. My lowly TCI 3000 rpm stall knocked off almost .6 tenths off of e.t.
The other great thing about a stall is that it kills the dead spots in the automatic like when punching it at around 30 mph for example.