Results 1 to 18 of 18
-
12-27-2013, 06:32 AM #1
I can't find the short. Draining Battery
HELP PLEASE!!!
Problem that I need to fix first
1.5 Amp draw on the battery
Quick rundown of problems:
1.5 Amp draw on the battery
Security Light is on
Service Engine Soon Light was on before new battery (Code: P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction)
Cruise Control doesn't work (assumed it was due to the code above)
Headlights open and close as I unlock and lock the car. (Using the Clicker)
Leaking Clutch Fluid and Squeaky Clutch Master Cylinder
(I'm sure most of this has nothing to do with the short, but didn't want to leave anything out.)
Mods:
Aftermarket radio unit & system
HID Low Lights
HID FOG Lights (one never worked.)
Dual Filter Intake. (It's the blue one from WS6 Project I think starts with a V)
Tick Performance Clutch Master Cylinder
Monster Clutch
Ohh and just installed a turn one power steering pump
Repairs:
Altenator (less than a year ago)
Power Steering High Pressure Hose (recently)
Thermostat (replaced with JET)
What I've currently attempted:
I've bought the circuit tester from O'Reilley's. I first disconnected the negative cable and connected the tester to the negative cable and negative post. Per
I removed every fuse one at a time and the light never turned off. Then I removed all the fuses and the light still never turned off. After a little research here I proceed to Connect the tester from the postive cable to the positive post and reconnect the negative cable. I watched the light as I put the fuses back in and the light never came on. :/????
Identification of the short:
12/26/13: Check of system at Advanced showed low voltage battery, good altenator, starter??? (couldn't check it). There was a lot of difficulty checking the battery as their tester showed system noise. I check with their tester showed a 1.5 amp draw on the battery.
I had a new battery installed before I left as I could no longer start the car after turning it off for more than ~30 seconds. (Ran fine once started) Even after putting a trickle charge on it for a couple of hours.
During the battery install the head lights open and closed and the horn went off. The technician noted he believed the short was in my head lights.
Detailed back story:
Something is draining my battery. It's been doing it for a couple months, but I've just now had time to work on the car. I've been connecting a trickle charge overnight maybe once a week. Until the last months. It's been becoming necessary to charge it more frequently, until a few days ago it would drain the battery within a few hours to the point yesterday it wouldn't hold a charge.
Security Light is a pretty recent occurrence (I intend to do the VAT bypass once I fix the short)
Service Engine Soon Light has been off and on (mostly on) Since I changed my clutch and clutch master cylinder in '11.
Same for the cruise control.
Head Lights have been acting up for a couple months. Also did that as my altenator was going out and stopped once I replaced it. I was assuming I was having the same problem again until yesterday.
Has been leaking clutch fluid since early summer.Last edited by CORYSTA; 12-27-2013 at 06:35 AM. Reason: Grammar
-
12-27-2013, 08:00 AM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Service Engine Soon Light was on before new battery (Code: P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction)
Cruise Control doesn't work (assumed it was due to the code above)
2 fixes, well 3 really. One replace the sensor outright (with the code this might be your only option); 2-use zip ties to hold the sensor in place (this is what I did, going on 4 yrs now); 3-zip tie or press in and tape the switch button in (this one you need to be aware that it will allow your cruise control to stay on if you press the clutch, however if you press the brake it will disengage.)
Headlights open and close as I unlock and lock the car. (Using the Clicker)
With you having highlights mod, I'm thinking your short is with the setup. It may be that the person that did it made a mistake or the not properly grounded out. I would start there. Disconnect the lights and see if the drawl stops.
-
12-27-2013, 08:28 AM #3
Thanks.
I've got the switch to fix it I just haven't gotten around to fixing it. In order for me to reach it I need to take the driver seat out. I was putting that off until I got ready to fix the clutch cylinder. 2 birds one stone.
Assuming they are wearing out is there a write up for the aluminum gear fix?
-
12-27-2013, 08:36 AM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Why do you need to remove the seat? I'm a big (as in wide) guy and I can get to it. PITA = yes.
None of our sponsors sell this so:
Replacement Headlight Gear For 93-02 Firebird / Trans Am
Instructions:
4th Generation Headlight Fix
-
12-27-2013, 09:16 AM #5
-
12-27-2013, 01:29 PM #6
So I've disconnected the VAT wires and my car still starts. :???
-
12-27-2013, 06:39 PM #7
-
12-27-2013, 08:09 PM #8
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
both have the gear. Might not be able to on a phone.
-
12-28-2013, 08:18 AM #9
Alright got it. It seems the link is to an old page. I found it at Rodney Dickman's Automotive Accessories
Ok so when we're talking security light staying on we're talking the "security" light on the dashboard correct and not the red light on the dash?
-
12-29-2013, 02:38 AM #10
right....the light on the gauge panel. Is it on solid all the time? How did you disconnect it? Was there any spliced resistors there already? It almost sounds like the bypass was done already but not done correctly. As far as your battery problem the first thing I would look at is the stereo system. How's it wired in and does the install look professional as far as the wiring goes? Does it have an aftermarket amp and where is that amp drawing power from? Electrical issues are a pain in the ass and just take time to track down.
-
12-29-2013, 03:21 AM #11
^^ Agree. Could be that the trigger wire that tells the amp(s) to turn on is wired incorrectly.
Best procedure to find the offending circuit is to disconnect your positive battery cable and connect an amp meter between the battery terminal and cable (you can use a test light in lieu of a meter, and watch for it to dim). After connecting the meter, start pulling fuses one at a time until you see a significant drop in amps - that will be the problem circuit. There will always be some draw on the battery, but nothing close to 1.5 amps. If you get through all the fuses under hood, then go to the panel on the side of the dash. After that, disconnect the aftermarket accessory power feeds one at a time as well. That should help you find the cause of the draw.
-
12-29-2013, 09:48 AM #12
Yes it stays on. I disconnected it under the dash where the bypass is suppose to be done. There was no spliced resistors. It started fine being disconnected.
I found an aftermarket security system under the dash during this that was wired into the system. I removed it sodering the wiring back in series.
This leads me to believe that the VAT was programmed out. Is that feasible? If so them what does the security light being on mean?
Yes I put a complete aftermarket system in. The 2 amps were put in professionally and grounded in the trunk. I put the dash unit in. This isn't the first unit I've put in this car and I've never had a problem.
-
12-29-2013, 09:50 AM #13
I've done this and according to that tool I don't have a short.
I've bought the circuit tester from O'Reilley's. I first disconnected the negative cable and connected the tester to the negative cable and negative post. I removed every fuse one at a time and the light never turned off. Then I removed all the fuses and the light still never turned off. After a little research here I proceed to Connect the tester from the postive cable to the positive post and reconnect the negative cable. I watched the light as I put the fuses back in and the light never came on. :/????
-
12-29-2013, 09:54 AM #14
A "short" occurs when you have a direct path from power to ground -- this will blow fuses and can damage electronics. A "draw" is when something is consuming battery power even with the ignition off. Again, there are things like the security system, power door locks, radio memory and such that always pull some power with the key off. However, this normal battery draw should be negligible and with a good battery it would take a couple of months to actually kill it.
-
12-29-2013, 01:07 PM #15
I think I've found it!!! At least I hope I have. The headlights have stopped opening and closing when I use my clicker.
Thank y'all for all the help!!!
I think it was my fog light. Several months ago I installed HID low lights and fog lights.
4703 HID 8K XENON CONVERSION KIT H4703 : Amazon.com : Automotive
Amazon.com: Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Premium Ballasts - 880 - 8000k: Automotive
One of the fog lights blew when me and a mechanic buddy of mine put them in. I was just now finally installing the new one. There's an error in the assembly of the fog lights. The connection with the car's power supply is backwards if you put the connectors together so the clip locks them together. The positive connects to the ground and vice versa.
The fog light that blew was connected this way and the one that's working was connected correctly.
Other than that it's a good set of fog lights.
-
12-29-2013, 06:28 PM #16
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
glad you found it.
-
12-30-2013, 08:08 PM #17
You could always ohm out your key and put some resistors in there to see if that turns the light off. There are a few different levels the vats works on....it's not a fail no fail deal necessarily. I would hate for it to strand you somewhere though so that's why I would try some resistors or at least follow that wiring and see if they put resistors somewhere else. I'm wondering if the security light has been on a while due to the wiring in the ignition switch so they put the aftermarket system in there as a back up and never bothered to fix the light?? Easy and cheap to do though.
sounds like you found your short....congrats on that part
-
01-12-2014, 10:22 AM #18
Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Similar Threads
-
Battery Draining
By kenro23 in forum General HelpReplies: 9Last Post: 08-15-2014, 04:42 AM -
Amp draining batteries
By 79Firebird_99TA in forum Stereo and ElectronicsReplies: 0Last Post: 11-29-2013, 07:51 AM -
Draining pwr steering and rack?
By jb'sWS6 in forum General HelpReplies: 5Last Post: 05-10-2010, 06:14 PM -
battery short
By bowtie1999ss in forum Stereo and ElectronicsReplies: 8Last Post: 09-16-2009, 07:39 AM -
Cigarette lighter draining devices - not charging
By Neil in forum General HelpReplies: 2Last Post: 04-18-2009, 08:19 AM
Bookmarks