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Thread: How hard is it?
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08-17-2007, 04:54 PM #1
How hard is it?
How hard is it to change our belt? I have over 100,000 miles on my car and whenever i get in about 5-6,000 rpm's my battery gauge dips all the way in the yellow. Never did this before and I think my belt is slipping off the alternator and then the car is just running on battery. How do I change the belt? Any websites with an explanation or any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks, Chris
2000 Arctic White trans am, ws6 hood, ws6 air box, slp lid, slp smooth bellows, slp loudmouth exhaust,shift kit, rebuilt trans, LS6 intake, 3.73 gears, Shaner S3 p/p throttle body, and a tune . SFC. C6 ZO6 rims 18" in back 17" in front. Drilled and slotted rotors.
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08-20-2007, 11:01 PM #2
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08-20-2007, 11:59 PM #3
changing the belt is really easy. All you have to do is loosen the belt tensioner and remove the belt. you might want to replace the ac belt also while you are at it.
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08-21-2007, 12:12 AM #4
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08-21-2007, 12:15 AM #5
trust me you'll know. hopefully i'll be able to get my camera tomorrow and I could take some pics for you. If you do decide to do the ac belt also there is another tensioner for that and you have to get underneath the car. The reason i say to do both at the same time is if your serpentine belt is bad most likely the ac belt is bad too. Its a two belt system so if you want to replace the ac belt you have to take off the serpentine belt to get to it. I'll show you if I could get some pics up. Honestly though I don't know if thats your problem. someone else might know though.
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08-21-2007, 05:32 PM #6
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08-21-2007, 05:49 PM #7
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08-21-2007, 06:32 PM #8
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08-21-2007, 06:41 PM #9
There should be a diagram on the driver side of the car under the hood that shows the sequence in which the belt should lay. I think its a 10mm socket you need for the tensioner. It's on the passenger side of the pulleys at the top and just looks like a metal peice with a pulley on it. just applie pressure with the socket and ratchet in the clockwise rotation and it should loosen enough to remove the belt. Reroute the new belt and leave the tensioner for last. Re apply pressure to the tensioner and slip the belt back over it. Job done. It's not hard at all. Just make sure the belt is fully on all the pulleys.
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08-21-2007, 06:48 PM #10
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Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
In the picture above, the tensioner is the candy apple red piece that bolts to the water pump. Its directly below the head plate in the picture. You need a 15mm socket and ratchet. You are going to use the 15mm socket to pull up on the bolt on the tensioner, up as in towards the throttle body. Once you pull it up, the belt slips right off.
Remove the old belt and route the new one. You should have a diagram on the left fenderwell that shows you how to route the belt. Once you have it routed, you use the 15mm socket/ratchet to pull upward on the tensioner bolt again and slip the belt onto the tensioner. Your are done now
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08-21-2007, 06:53 PM #11
Of course Y2K, you have to show off that UNGODLY clean engine bay. You make me feel like crap. lol
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08-21-2007, 06:55 PM #12
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08-21-2007, 06:59 PM #13
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Onyx Black- 2001 WS6
Hope this helps.
Belt:
A/C Accessory:
I don't know if it will solve your Problem though.
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08-21-2007, 08:58 PM #14
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08-21-2007, 09:03 PM #15
15mm socket and a long handle ratchet helps
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08-21-2007, 09:59 PM #16
- Join Date
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Onyx Black- 2001 WS6
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08-21-2007, 10:40 PM #17
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09 EclipseGT 75 Chevy 4x4- 2001 Trans-Am 13 F-XT
Get goodyear gator back belts. They really work good. My AC belt was slipping and my serp belt was cracked with about 40K on them. I cleaned the pulley's with snowmobile clutch cleaner while I was messing with them.
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08-21-2007, 10:48 PM #18
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Black- 2002 Formula Firehawk
it is the hardest thing to do next to a cam swap!
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