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Help Trans am wont stay on

This is a discussion on Help Trans am wont stay on within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; So today i was going to work and turned the trans am up. It started up the same as any ...

  1. #1
    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Help Trans am wont stay on

    So today i was going to work and turned the trans am up. It started up the same as any other day so as i was leave my house i get out to get something i forgot and while im inside the house i hear the car idle bad and shuts off. I go back out and turn it back on i back up and just shuts off. i turn it back on and after 10 seconds it will turn off again. this happen for about 4 more times until i just quit and left it on my drive way. so i come back from work and try to start it back up and the same. i looked under the car and just see a little puddle of coolant. every time i try to hit the throttle even a little it will or almost shut off. at idle its at 3 to 500 rpms. the days temp was normal battery is good. Does anyone know what the problem can be? Im thinking its the motor it has 150000 miles on it.
    And also its not throwing any codes

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    Maybe the MAF needs cleaned, check the fuel pressure at the rail, if they seem good, maybe do a compression test on the cylinders.

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    Could be two entirely unrelated issues. Like Bill said, maybe check those items and also clean the throttle body. I would scan the PCM for codes as well -- you will sometimes have a pending code on an issue that has not yet set the SES light on the dash.

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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Ok so i began to work on the car today and once i turned it on the p0102 code went on which is the maf sensor so i inspected it cleaned it and put it back on and cleared the code but it still runs the same. Im hear some sort of leak next to one of the injectors i took the sensor off and turned it back on and works the same is this the problem i am having? could it be the sensor has gone bad or the injector?

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    Easiest check for the MAF is to unplug it and run the car. This forces the PCM into speed density mode where it runs off the MAP sensor. Not a fix though, so don't drive the car like this. Has the MAF been ported, de-screened or de-bladed?

    If the MAF is in fact the issue, you want to run a stock replacement GM MAF, not an aftermarket unit as they will screw up your air-fuel. The stock MAF will support an engine up to about the 500 horsepower level, so do not be tempted to mess with aftermarket junk.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    You say you hear some sort of leak next to one of the injectors? I'm wondering if you don't have a vacuum leak. You could inspect the hoses around the area for cracks/splits. I would also check the other suggestions as well too.

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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    I disconected the maf and still ran the same. the maf has only been painted (on the outside of course) nothing else. And i've only heard bad things about aftermarket MAF's so im def not considering them if its my problem.

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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    You say you hear some sort of leak next to one of the injectors? I'm wondering if you don't have a vacuum leak. You could inspect the hoses around the area for cracks/splits. I would also check the other suggestions as well too.
    I checked around and everything seems to be in place but i try pushing in the injector and the leak seems to stop for a bit.
    99 Pontiac Trans Am Silver: Custom K&N Intake, 85mm BBK SSI Intake, 85 PP Throttle Body, Pacesetter long tube headers, TSP off road y-pipe, TSP Rumbler catback, Torque Thrust II sitting on Nitto 555 all around, 20% tint, and the free mods

    1997 Cadillac Deville~32v northstar v8

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Sounds as though the o-ring on the injector isn't sealing properly. I'd remove the injector and inspect the o-ring. Make sure to lube the o-ring before reinstalling too.

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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Yeah im going to just dont think that this is the reason the car wont stay on. Every time i hit the gas it tries to turn off or does. it sounds like a misfire.

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    You might have a vacuum leak, but that would cause a high idle... Can you find a buddy to swap maf's to confirm it ?

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    Oh Ya, did you check the fuel pressure ???

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Just what I was going to ask At 150k, has the fuel filter ever been changed?

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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    No haven't checked fuel pressure yet i changed the fuel filter about a year ago I only drive it about 5k miles a year for my daily driver. Yeah a vacuum leak would cause high idle im getting low idle 400 rpm's. I haven't checked fuel pressure because i don't have a fuel pressure tester

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    You should see around 58 - 60 psi at the rail, when you do check it. As Jeff stated, you may have a couple of issues here. We'll get you squared away though.
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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    I'll try to get a tester today.Thanks for the help guys hopefully i can get it running right again

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    Know anyone with freon manifold gauges ? Blue hose ( low side ) will screw right on to the rail .

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Did you check the bolts holding the fuel rail in place? Weird things happen with engines's rotational torques. Maybe one has loosened up? Easy check.

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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Im not sure im doing this right but i bought the fuel pressure tester kit. i unscrewed the green cap from the fuel lines and screw the test to it. I turned the car on and the needle didnt move i put the clear hose in a container for the fuel and nothing went throught. Am i even doing this right?

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Does the back of the fuel guage have a nipple to push in the valve stem? If not, you may need to remove the valve stem to allow the guage to read properly. Put a small cup under the valve stem, and depress it with a small screwdriver, to relieve any pressure first. Then use a valve stem tool to remove the stem.

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