HELP!!! Having a SURGE problem!

**Anwazi** · 07-17-2008, 06:44 AM

Ok, I had this electrical surge issue. Start the car. Volts would read somewhat higher than normal. Then as the car warmed up it would read about 13.6 (normal). However, evertime i creep up on a stoplight, the voltage would drop into the yellow zone and sometimes even kill the engine. I'd have to restart it. I was having pulsating issues as well.....so I changed the alternator, assuming that the voltage regulator is fk up. Changed that and all the spark plugs (gapped 40). Now it doesn't pulsate, but the surge is still there when i brake to a dead stop. it drops quickly and comes back up.

What else could cause this type of problem???? any suggestions would help!

**Anwazi** · 08-13-2008, 09:13 AM

Ok so no one helped me with this. I found out on my own. For anyone experiencing this problem. It's a big one.

"a torque convertor clutch that is not releasing on deceleration will cause the car to shutter and in some cases stall when coming to a stop."

**JoshieDoom** · 08-14-2008, 04:10 AM

If thats it then I suggest upgrading to a higher stall.I do believe and your battery not accepting a load could possible cause this as well.

BTW When my TPS sensor went out before it threw the SES light it would drop down to around 350-400 rpm and almost stall out the car if you didnt let off the brakes. Dont know this post got overlooked. sowwy....

Try a cheap TPS sensor and see what happens

I would try the little things before you dish out big cash on a converter

**Anwazi** · 08-14-2008, 05:17 AM

Good point...I'll check those out as well. The battery looks new, but then again I had a voltage regulator problem for a while. May have damaged the battery. I'll check it out. How do i check the TPS? Resistance test? I forget.

Also, i do have a shudder when accelerating gradually. Sometimes it goes away. Other times, when accelerating hard, it shudders to the point I have to get off of it. That shudder started after I replaced my transmission mount from factory to a summit polyurethane one. So i'm not sure if it's the torque converter or maybe just a misaligned drive shaft.

**JoshieDoom** · 08-14-2008, 05:29 AM

Probably the driveshaft. I didnt grind down the bumpers after I bought a new mount the first time and it was about undrivable with all the vibrations. The prothane one that ws6 store sells is the best so I have heard, mine should be at my house in about 3 hours.

The TPS is a cheap and easy fix. I would buy one and see if it helps if not take it off and take it back.

How are your u-joints?

**Anwazi** · 08-14-2008, 05:44 AM

I need to find the spec angle for that driveshaft. Or buy a factory trans mount instead. It should last a couple years??

I'll check that TPS. I replaced the rear u-joint last friday. It was making a *ping* sound when i put it in gear. Plus you can hear it ping when accelerating after backing up out of my driveway. Need to replace the front one as well. Hope that's what the *ping* sound is.

**Anwazi** · 08-14-2008, 05:45 AM

BTW, we must both have desk jobs if we're on here this early!

**JoshieDoom** · 08-14-2008, 10:58 AM

Originally Posted by Anwazi

BTW, we must both have desk jobs if we're on here this early!

definately dont have a desk job...lol

**Anwazi** · 08-14-2008, 11:16 AM

...lucky!!! Thanks for your help earlier!

**adam0321** · 08-18-2008, 09:35 PM

ok I have similar problem. when the car is at idle no problem when i push the gas a bit the light dim and brighten. flicker i guess. I am a m6 alternator??

**Anwazi** · 08-19-2008, 07:12 AM

it dims when you accelerate? Does it hesitate? or does it dim then go about normally?

**adam0321** · 08-19-2008, 07:14 AM

kinda pulses, like it wants to drop but doesent

**Anwazi** · 08-19-2008, 07:22 AM

might be an ignition system issue. Do a vacuum test first. Make sure there are no air leaks causing unmetered air to go in your engine. Vacuum test should give you a good idea of any problems. check coils and plugs too. make sure it's all working properly