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first race worse than expected...

This is a discussion on first race worse than expected... within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by fraz1le You may want to check your fuel pump, mine got week and I went from a ...

  1. #21
    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fraz1le View Post
    You may want to check your fuel pump, mine got week and I went from a 12.9 to a 14.0 and it took me a while to figure it out because it drove fine untill you got on it and it just felt week didn't miss or stuble or anything.
    Hmmm, might be a possibility, I didn't think about that since I have good pressure at the rails at idol, guess I don't watch my gauge while going wot. I'll watch it tomarow.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Your 2.16 60' time is killing you. I got a 1.9X on street tires in my M6 when I was stock.

    I know typically stock cars will range anywhere from 1.9X to 2.2 on their 60'.

    For every .1 you cut off that 60' time, you're looking at cutting about .2 off the other end.
    A new stall would help me there right?

  3. #23
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    A higher stall (3200-3600) would probably cut about .5 seconds off your 1/4 mile time.

  4. #24
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    gears and a stall will really wake up the car. that is what you should focus your next round of mods should be, IMO.

    the stock gears and stall are holding you back.

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    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    gears and a stall will really wake up the car. that is what you should focus your next round of mods should be, IMO.

    the stock gears and stall are holding you back.
    All of these suggestions are true. Gears, esp 2.73's are not helping, nor is the stock stall or slower 60'. *But*, keep in mind that 14 with mods, albeit bolt ons, isn't normal, stock gears or not. I would definitely do a tune up and check the fuel pump, maybe check the MAF and any other little thing you can think of that would be hurting you. Make sure the fuel system is clean, eg injectors as well and just troubleshoot. If you get all that fixed, stall it and gear it, you'd probably be looking at high 12's. Maybe even mid on some DRs.
    2002 Black/Ebony M6 WS6: Lid, Filter, Smooth Bellow, P&P TB (!Bump Stop), Magnaflow Cat-Back (dumped after the axle), 4.10s, Hypertech ME Tune, eibach springs 4/4, LCA relocating brackets, PHB, free mods, 17" TTMs.

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    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    I was doing the same, but I have an M6. I just thought it was because I was a bad driver til a friend pointed out my reaction time was great. So I'm also going to give these suggestions a try. After I get a new tranny.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    M6 is really a different ball game. Most people think they can shift well, when in reality, most can't and lose a lot of time just shifting. This is why all serious drag racers are auto's.

  8. #28
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    M6 is really a different ball game. Most people think they can shift well, when in reality, most can't and lose a lot of time just shifting. This is why all serious drag racers are auto's.
    I agree. My 65 will stay an auto because of this reason. But its still fun to go to the track with the Trans Am. It is also my DD so I can't do extreme stuff to it anyway.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    current list of things to check...

    plugs/gap
    wires
    fuel pressure at WOT

    what else could have gone wrong. and how can i verify my MSD wires are still good, and how to check pressure at WOT?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    As far as I know, fuel pressure should remain steady at 58-60psi...regardless of what RPM.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    well i read good at idol and around town, but ive never kept my eye on the guage during wide open throttle.

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    You would need a scanner to log it or a fuel pressure gauge inside the car. Or, hook up a fuel pressure gauge at the rail and just use the throttle cable to rev the engine up while reading the gauge.

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    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    ive got a digital fuel pressure guage on my pillar pods.

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    Senior Member Whamhammer's Avatar
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    Sutie, what gear package do you have (2.73 or 3.23)? Also, did you load the converter at all before launch or did you mash it when the light when green? I was looking at the .7 reaction time and that was the first thing that came to mind to me. If youre not loading the converter, that will hurt your launch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Whamhammer View Post
    Sutie, what gear package do you have (2.73 or 3.23)? Also, did you load the converter at all before launch or did you mash it when the light when green? I was looking at the .7 reaction time and that was the first thing that came to mind to me. If youre not loading the converter, that will hurt your launch.
    2.73 gears. And I loaded as much as I could without breaking the tires loose. And the reaction time was .07, almost perfect.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Reaction time has ZERO bearing on your time. All that tells you is how well you are reacting at the tree.

    You can have a reaction time of 5 minutes if you wanted to...your 1/4 mile would still be the same.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    First thing I would look at is that idle code you are throwing.
    Computer adjusts for these things.....likely by adding fuel.

  18. #38
    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    First thing I would look at is that idle code you are throwing.
    Computer adjusts for these things.....likely by adding fuel.
    i didnt think about that. i figured it was just another stupid code that didnt effect how the car ran. it started after i did the LS6 pcv conversion W/ catch can. i think it runs a ton better then before though... guess ill look into that too

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    Wonder if it has a touch of a vacuum leak....

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    dont know where, all the PCV lines are capped off except for the valley cover to catch can, catch can to intake, and TB to valve cover.

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