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First Mods?

This is a discussion on First Mods? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by Hurley711 Come on guys recommending DRs & 4.11's on a M6 without telling him to kiss that ...

  1. #21
    Junior Member BLACK02WS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711
    Come on guys recommending DRs & 4.11's on a M6 without telling him to kiss that 10 bolt goodbye? Got $2500 to pay for a 12 bolt or 9 inch yet? For a M6 I would do the following, first get the SFC($150) before you start twisting the underside of the car. I would also get some LCA($150) while you're at it, what good is power if it isn't hitting the pavement...especially in an M6 where launching can be tricky. Also since it is a DD $$$ invested in Bilstien HD shocks($335) is $$$ WELL spent, stock shocks SUCK ASSHOLE and since you DD the car you will see a HUGE improvement in driving with the HD. Also get yourself a short stick to replace the tall ass Hurst shifter, $25 or less on Ebay or get a LSS for $50. For power I would do the FRA mod, a nice set of LT headers, PAcesetters are good for the price, an ORY to go along with your CB...which CB do you have? (Please don't say Flowmaster, please don't say Flowmaster ) Ported TB can be had from New Era PErfomance in NY for $80 shipped. Also a nice size cam and a tune to top things off. Above will net you 380-400 at the wheels, depending on the size of the cam, and will be totally driveable on the street as a DD. Good luck, how much you spending?

    I know the possibilities of that rear going, you either get a good one or a bad one. You are recomending the Bilstien HD shocks, and I was thinking about the QA1's, what do you think about those? Since I will be taking it to the track sometimes, I would like to be able to adjust them for a track setup and street setup. I am definitely looking into the LCA's, and a short stick for this thing. What is the FRA mod? And LT's will be coming soon, I need to save up first, but I have a SLP Loudmouth 1 catback, Blowmaster I hate!!! I have had bad experiences with Pacesetters before, and I dont know if I will go with them again ( Had to bend the Y-Pipe in a hydraulic press to make it fit!!). I am looking in the Hooker LT's or the SLP LT's... Ported throttle body and possibly an intake manifold somewhere down the line. I am in college and working so I have a limited budget due to trying to pay for the car. But I am looking o spend about $200 a month on this thing, so in a year or two it will be SICK!!!

  2. #22
    Member Capster78's Avatar
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    It depends on how far you want to go. If your setting up to run low 11's or faster I would start with suspension. Get you an adjustable torque arm, a rear sway bar, sub frame connectors, QA1 drag shocks and springs, Tubular K-member, Tubular A-Arms (upper and lower) some drag radials (this should get you 1.6 or better 60fts with practice) Remember drag racing is all about the first 60ft. You can cut alot of time off the end by improving your short time (60ft).

    Remove the front sway bar, relocate the battery to the back with a battery cutoff switch.. (get some of the weight off the front of the car, this will allow the rear to preload alot better and put all the weight on the back of the car when you launch which will give you better traction)

    Get yourself some longtube headers and a full 3" exhaust. 4.10's.. then work on a cam, rockers, lifters, pushrods.. Thats what I would do atleast.

  3. #23
    Junior Member BLACK02WS6's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the info, I am just looking for low 12's for now, but I know when I go that fast, I am going to want to go faster.

  4. #24
    www.lsall.com
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    red
    ta

    lip

  5. #25
    www.lsall.com
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    red
    ta

    err lid

  6. #26
    www.lsall.com
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    red
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    then borla

  7. #27
    www.lsall.com
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    red
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    then !CAGS

  8. #28
    Junior Member BLACK02WS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broken
    then !CAGS
    I already have a lid, smooth bellows, !CAGS, and an SLP Loudmouth 1 catback

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