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Thread: FAKE RAM AIR HOOD!? W/Pics!!!!
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03-03-2008, 01:22 PM #1
FAKE RAM AIR HOOD!? W/Pics!!!!
I have a 02 trans am with ram air , or so i thought when i bought the car!!! I took off the front nostril grills and realized that there is a plastic piece blocking the air and beyond that in the back IN FRONT OF THE F@*$ING AIR INTAKE is another plastic piece! Its a wonder that my car gets any air into the intake at all. Isnt RAM AIR supposed to be forced air induction? Is it just me or is everyones WS6 like this? PLEASE ANYONE let me know how your car is and how to remedy this.
Thanks, Tony
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03-03-2008, 01:42 PM #2
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
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- St. Clair Shores. Michigan
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Navy Blue Metallic- `98 Formula M6 HdTp
Yes All Factory WS6 Hoods have those so don't be Alarmed.
The parts you are refering to are the Baffles they direct the air down then up and then back down again. They are designed to keep Water out of the Air Filter.
Yes they can be removed, Mine have been out for 9 yrs driven through all kinds of weather and I never had a problem with Water on my filter.Craig
Semi Retired Street Racer
2012 Lava Red Mustang GT Coupe Brembo/3.73's
Build Date 3/17/11, Last Lava Red GT
Gone but not forgoten
NBM `98 Formula M6 HdTp
1 of 1 Build Date 3/12/98
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03-03-2008, 02:07 PM #3
I pulled the baffles out then made a smooth steel duct to guide the air straight in !!! Picked up like 2/10's in the 1/4 !!!
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03-05-2008, 09:41 AM #4
I don't have a ws6, but i bought an aftermarket hood for my T/A. It had those plastic pieces blocking it just like yours. I think my dad cut them out with a sawzall. I'm not sure what he used. We just put some grills in each nostril and then a "finer" grill behind the nostrils to prevent shit from going in.
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03-05-2008, 10:28 AM #5
To answer the question about Ram Air being "forced air induction", nope, closer to a cold air induction, much like the cowl induction from the early 70s. Also the "Ram Air" monicer has been a marketing ploy used by Pontiac for many years dateing back to the 60s to denote the high output motors that were available then like the Ram Air IV block that you hear about.
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03-05-2008, 07:10 PM #6
remove that piece and let some cool air in, The factory setup is not what I would consider a very effective ram air system, I made the change to the volant system with a smooth bellow coupler.
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03-06-2008, 06:29 AM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
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- 1966 Corvette Coupe
sigh.. im miss the brian green ram air kit
-me
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03-06-2008, 10:42 AM #8
Thank you all for your responses i now know what i must do! Where is my sawzaw!! LOL
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03-06-2008, 02:56 PM #9
Before you break out the sawz all and make a huge red neck mess. See the rivits, take a drill bit to them and get a much cleaner and smoother look.
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03-06-2008, 04:45 PM #10
I WANT REDNECK MESS! LOL You read my mind my next question was how to get the rivits off. Thanks again for the info brotha!
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03-06-2008, 11:12 PM #11
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- Sep 2005
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- TEXAS... U mad?
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- 6,158
Black / Stryker Blue- 2K WS.6/ 2K9 G8GT
1/8th " drillbit
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03-07-2008, 09:14 AM #121999 BLACK WS6 RAM AIR TRANS AM A4 (1 of 274 WS6 coupe Canada only models)
ASC conversion date: 6/10/99
ASC build# : 4310 of 5007
Hood Sequence #74992V
w/over (50) performance & appearance mods!!!
My Albums: http://community.webshots.com/user/kenawink
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03-07-2008, 09:30 AM #13
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- Dec 2006
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Black- 1999 Camaro Z28
Where did you get your car? I noticed your in Orlando you might have mine.
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03-07-2008, 09:34 AM #14
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Black- 1999 Camaro Z28
Wait I take that back...you had to remove the nostril pieces? Mine were already removed. I miss my car
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03-22-2008, 07:31 PM #15
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03-22-2008, 07:36 PM #16
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03-22-2008, 07:43 PM #17
Take some pics after you remove the rivets. I'm intrigued...
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03-22-2008, 08:01 PM #18
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03-22-2008, 08:09 PM #19
TSS, you naughty nurse...
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03-23-2008, 01:03 PM #20
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My life is a- Ben Stiller movie.
it's super simple to do. It took maybe 20 minutes? I just drilled out the rivits-they are clearly visable when you open your hood and look behind where the air comes in. Once you do that, the plate falls loose and you just twist it until you can pull it out.
The baffles for each nostril are glued and rivited in place-those won't budge, so don't try.
This pic shows some handy window trim insulation [1/2" thick] stacked about 3-layers deep wrapped around the back of the ram-air port to seal the hood to the airbox. Notice how i left the bottom only 2 layers thick-otherwise the bottom bends up a bit after the close.
and the heart :rollout:
Last edited by third_shift|studios; 03-23-2008 at 01:09 PM.
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