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Exhaust Hitting the Floorboard

This is a discussion on Exhaust Hitting the Floorboard within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I have a 98 T/A and i have MAC mid length headers/ MAC exhaust and I'm doing some changes to ...

  1. #1
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    Exhaust Hitting the Floorboard

    I have a 98 T/A and i have MAC mid length headers/ MAC exhaust and I'm doing some changes to it (plugs, wires, etc.) and I've always had the problem of the Y- pipe hitting my floor board, well now i have the exhaust out i want to know how i can eliminate it when i put it back in. The old piece i had personally hand crushed the top of the Y- pipe but it didn't really work. I was thinking poly motor mounts but i don't know how bad the vibration will be. Any suggestions? Please help!

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    REAPER Z28 reaper ws6's Avatar
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    02 camaro z28/01 wife t/a

    i have the same problem with my x-pipe it hits the floor-board pretty bad, i was thinking to putting some rubber pieces in between the exhaust and the x-pipe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by reaper ws6 View Post
    i have the same problem with my x-pipe it hits the floor-board pretty bad, i was thinking to putting some rubber pieces in between the exhaust and the x-pipe.
    Chances are that the rubber will melt and you'll have a stinky mess on your hands. Better to either modify the system or add some sort of bracket to hold the pipes away from the underbody.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I fab up a bracket myself and weld it to the ORY near where the tunnel brace connects, drilled a hole in the bracket and used the same bolt. No issues since. You can buy one, but I used a piece of 1/8" thick scrape steel and a hammer to make it form the curve shape.

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    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
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    If your motor mounts are all good you might want to try the Mufflex LS1 Hanger. It is made specifically for LS1 F body cars. It is made of stainless steel and rubber and attaches to existing holes on the drivers side floor board and the Y-Pipe. You can adjust the amount of preload to prevent the pipe from hitting the floor board. Worked great on my car. 3 inch hanger is part LS1-HR, 2.5 inch hanger is LS1-HR-2.5. Each costs about $40. Several vendors carry them. Took all of 20 minutes to install including getting the car up in the air and back down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjgreen6 View Post
    If your motor mounts are all good you might want to try the Mufflex LS1 Hanger. It is made specifically for LS1 F body cars. It is made of stainless steel and rubber and attaches to existing holes on the drivers side floor board and the Y-Pipe. You can adjust the amount of preload to prevent the pipe from hitting the floor board. Worked great on my car. 3 inch hanger is part LS1-HR, 2.5 inch hanger is LS1-HR-2.5. Each costs about $40. Several vendors carry them. Took all of 20 minutes to install including getting the car up in the air and back down.
    How does that thing work? Also, if i install it and when i punch it and the engine flexes but the exhaust doesnt, wont it bend/break something?

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    Member damianj03's Avatar
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    slap your mama red
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    i put some thick exhaust wrap around the area that hits the floor board. i put enough in that one area to touch the floor board so it dosnt have any room to bang.

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    Junior Member Raleigh TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by damianj03 View Post
    i put some thick exhaust wrap around the area that hits the floor board. i put enough in that one area to touch the floor board so it dosnt have any room to bang.
    As someone with that same Mac Mid ass slapping ORY problem, I like this cheap and easy fix!

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    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    i've had this problem with both my fbodies, both with a 3in Ypipe and an 3in X-pipe, both with and without longtubes on. Solved the problem on both the same way. I used metal zipties to put steel wool in between the exhaust and the floor board, banging and rubbing gone.
    Last edited by LeadFarmer; 08-29-2011 at 09:44 PM.

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    Just an FYI: Steel wool is actually flammable. Take a piece and touch a match to it out in your driveway. Maybe the coarse stuff isn't too bad, but the fine grade will burn.

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    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    woops, excuse my spelling. yeh I use the coarsest possible. I've had it on the car for awhile and haven't ever had a problem with it, I might invest in that hanger thing if this fails one day.

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    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
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    Works very good for me. The construction is a two part mount with a rubber mount held by a stainless bracket so the exhaust has some room to flex but not as much as it would otherwise. There is some adjustment of the preload of the bracket so you can make it have more or less travel. I'm very happy with mine and it solved the frequent thump under acceleration or on a hard left turn.

  13. #13
    now greybat66
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    navy blue metalic
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    one of the bad things with the y pipe hitting the floorpan is that it sets off the knock sensor retarding the ignition and the car losses plenty of power, i know had it happen to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by purplebat66 View Post
    one of the bad things with the y pipe hitting the floorpan is that it sets off the knock sensor retarding the ignition and the car losses plenty of power, i know had it happen to me.
    how bad does it retard timing? also if i buy this mufflex ls1 hangar won it bend shit?

  15. #15
    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
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    The mufflex hanger won't cause anything to bend. There is flex in the mount and you can adjust it some. The rubber part of the hanger is the weakest point between your exhaust and the hanger so under the most extreme circumstance (like if your motor mount broke) the rubber part of the hanger would be the next thing to go long before you broke the exhaust or manifold.

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