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Exhaust/driveshaft issue during pinion seal install HELP!!!

This is a discussion on Exhaust/driveshaft issue during pinion seal install HELP!!! within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey everyone going to knock out my pinion seal that's been leaking for the past year tomorrow....got all 4 wheels ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Exhaust/driveshaft issue during pinion seal install HELP!!!

    Hey everyone going to knock out my pinion seal that's been leaking for the past year tomorrow....got all 4 wheels up in the air as well as the wheels off and after crawling under there, there's no way in hell i'm going to be able to get to the driveshaft to remove the bolts to get to the pinion nut itself! Look at the picture the driveshaft is flush against my exhaust....I hear no noises at all when driving like their making contact....is this because the weight is off the rear wheels? how do i keep this from happening? picture here:

    2000 Arctic White trans am, ws6 hood, ws6 air box, slp lid, slp smooth bellows, slp loudmouth exhaust,shift kit, rebuilt trans, LS6 intake, 3.73 gears, Shaner S3 p/p throttle body, and a tune . SFC. C6 ZO6 rims 18" in back 17" in front. Drilled and slotted rotors.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Is the rear under load or free hanging?

    Meaning are jack stands under the axle or under the body?

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Is the rear under load or free hanging?

    Meaning are jack stands under the axle or under the body?
    Axle is free hanging...I have all 4 wheels off and 4 jack stands under the body.....should there be weight on wheels so that the exhaust will move away from the driveshaft?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Correction, put the stands under the rear axle, this will raise up the drive shaft and rear away from the exhaust.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 04-07-2016 at 11:46 AM.

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Correction, put the stands under the rear axle, this will raise up the drive shaft and rear away from the exhaust.
    will do...have you ever run into this problem before? it must be because the rear axle probably never sees this amount of droop and that is why it is coming in contact with the exhaust now? is that correct?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Yes, the muffler shop did you no favors by running it this tight. It's one thing to keep it tight to not hit objects but another when it prevents you to work on other components.

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Yes, the muffler shop did you no favors by running it this tight. It's one thing to keep it tight to not hit objects but another when it prevents you to work on other components.
    ok I appreciate the help...will let you know how it goes when I put the stands under the axle.

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    Damn... what the heck were they thinking routing it like that? I take it you do not see any rub marks on the drive shaft from contact? Contact would only be an issue on something like a shallow dip or hump in the road where the body would rise up on the suspension to the full extent of the rear shocks.

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    Any help

    New member anyone want to tell me how to start a new thread?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcmacsten View Post
    New member anyone want to tell me how to start a new thread?
    Please see response posted to this question posted here: Heads and Cam Packages?

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Damn... what the heck were they thinking routing it like that? I take it you do not see any rub marks on the drive shaft from contact? Contact would only be an issue on something like a shallow dip or hump in the road where the body would rise up on the suspension to the full extent of the rear shocks.
    nope no rub marks that I can see....will probably end up using the jack stands up under the axle and doing it that way....yeah not sure why the exhaust shop would do it that way....any way I can reroute the exhaust on my own?

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    Probably not without a pipe bender and some new exhaust tubing...

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