Engine removal-n- install

**James2001RAMAIR** · 05-11-2008, 05:33 AM

Wanting to remove engine in my 2001 bird and do some engine inspection on the crank and some add on's, my ? is is this a hard job to do out the top or will I need a car lift to do this on this year model (5.7 V8)????
Engine has an slight tap or knock,sounds if coming from bottom of engine and when revved up it stops and sometimes is not there at all, could this be normal, I'm not familiar with the sounds of this type engine.

**Wesman** · 05-11-2008, 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by James2001RAMAIR

Wanting to remove engine in my 2001 bird and do some engine inspection on the crank and some add on's, my ? is is this a hard job to do out the top or will I need a car lift to do this on this year model (5.7 V8)????
Engine has an slight tap or knock,sounds if coming from bottom of engine and when revved up it stops and sometimes is not there at all, could this be normal, I'm not familiar with the sounds of this type engine.

From what I've seen, the easiest way to get the engine out is from the bottom. Unfortunately, that requires a lift. Basically you just unbolt the entire engine/suspension cradle from the front of the car, unbolt the strut towers from the chassis, and you can lower the entire front subframe out of the car as a complete unit. I've heard of people taking the engine out from the top, but its difficult because the engine sits so far under the cowl.

The knock sound you are hearing is not normal. Sounds like rod knock, probably have a bad rod bearing. By the time you add up the cost of overhauling the entire bottom end it may make more sense to get an entirely new long block. That way there is no assembly required, just bolt on all your components and accessories from the old engine and install it, and you basically have a brand new engine. Crate Engine Depot sells a brand new GM LS6 long block assembly for about $3200, stock 405HP and everthing from the old engine would bolt up. Its a great deal if you can swing the initial cost.

**Y2KPewterSS** · 05-11-2008, 05:17 PM

Its easier coming out the bottom, but not bad to take it out the top either. Remove the intake, radiator and hood and it will come out the top.

**99formulals1** · 05-15-2008, 02:32 PM

I just removed and replaced mine through the top, took about 8 hrs by my self. be shure to remove the harmonic ballencer before you pull it or the flywheel and ballencer will rub front and back. you can pull it with the manifolds on the engine, but if you plan to put long tube headers on put them in and tie them off while the engine is out. take lots of pictures to go back to. its not too bad though.. good luck

**INMY01TA** · 05-15-2008, 03:59 PM

Sure your not just hearing piston slap?

**01ws6er** · 05-16-2008, 09:33 AM

Originally Posted by Wesman

From what I've seen, the easiest way to get the engine out is from the bottom. Unfortunately, that requires a lift. Basically you just unbolt the entire engine/suspension cradle from the front of the car, unbolt the strut towers from the chassis, and you can lower the entire front subframe out of the car as a complete unit. I've heard of people taking the engine out from the top, but its difficult because the engine sits so far under the cowl.

The knock sound you are hearing is not normal. Sounds like rod knock, probably have a bad rod bearing. By the time you add up the cost of overhauling the entire bottom end it may make more sense to get an entirely new long block. That way there is no assembly required, just bolt on all your components and accessories from the old engine and install it, and you basically have a brand new engine. Crate Engine Depot sells a brand new GM LS6 long block assembly for about $3200, stock 405HP and everthing from the old engine would bolt up. Its a great deal if you can swing the initial cost.

I'm seein $4725...?

**Wesman** · 05-16-2008, 07:09 PM

Originally Posted by 01ws6er

I'm seein $4725...?

You must be looking at the service engine.

Here is just the long block itself, no accessories:

Crate Engine Depot LS6 Long Block

**01ws6er** · 05-17-2008, 09:35 AM

Originally Posted by Wesman

You must be looking at the service engine.

Here is just the long block itself, no accessories:

Crate Engine Depot LS6 Long Block

Yes I was. I was wondering why the price was so different lol. That's actually pretty damn good for a longblock! Especially a longblock with 405 at the crank!

**Wesman** · 05-17-2008, 07:21 PM

Originally Posted by 01ws6er

Yes I was. I was wondering why the price was so different lol. That's actually pretty damn good for a longblock! Especially a longblock with 405 at the crank!

Thats why it cought my eye. Pretty damn good deal IMO. If you have a tired out LS1, all you would need to do it get that and bolt on your accessories. And you have an instant brand new motor with 370WHP for $3200.

**99formulals1** · 05-24-2008, 10:52 AM

That really pisses me off, i just paid 5,300 for a LS1 wish i would have learned about this two months ago. O-well, I know what ill get if this one dont last.

**James2001RAMAIR** · 05-26-2008, 06:25 AM

Originally Posted by Wesman

From what I've seen, the easiest way to get the engine out is from the bottom. Unfortunately, that requires a lift. Basically you just unbolt the entire engine/suspension cradle from the front of the car, unbolt the strut towers from the chassis, and you can lower the entire front subframe out of the car as a complete unit. I've heard of people taking the engine out from the top, but its difficult because the engine sits so far under the cowl.

The knock sound you are hearing is not normal. Sounds like rod knock, probably have a bad rod bearing. By the time you add up the cost of overhauling the entire bottom end it may make more sense to get an entirely new long block. That way there is no assembly required, just bolt on all your components and accessories from the old engine and install it, and you basically have a brand new engine. Crate Engine Depot sells a brand new GM LS6 long block assembly for about $3200, stock 405HP and everthing from the old engine would bolt up. Its a great deal if you can swing the initial cost.

Thanks for the advice, and sorry its been so long to get back to you but I've been busy with work,
But we did find the noise and well it's kinda imbarrasing but a big releif,it was the belt tentioner baring on the belt and replaced it.
but the advice on the new install was helpful I had already planned to put about 3,000.00-4,000.00 into modifing,and now the LS6 option is what we are planning to do in the future.
I plan on getting the new motor and making a wild weekend beast out of her.
Thanks again and if you have any ideas on beefing up the LS6 I would appretiate the advice.

**egod** · 05-26-2008, 07:02 AM

^if you're ready to throw that down in modding wouldn't you but it to more cost effective use and just keep the ls1. I mean coun't you use that 3-4g's and get way more than the 400hp. I know it means a like new engine but that trickflow head and cam package can give you up to 515hp with an ls6 intake. I'm not judging, but maybe i misunderstood, it just seems like that money can make a bigger difference keeping the ls1 and still have great strength and reliability.