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Engine knock???

This is a discussion on Engine knock??? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hello all. Newbie here. I'm looking at a 2001 WS6 T/A. The engine has a knock on the right side ...

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    Question Engine knock???

    Hello all. Newbie here. I'm looking at a 2001 WS6 T/A. The engine has a knock on the right side of the motor. The owner thought it was a clutch problem but their garage said it was a lifter. The noise is loud when you first start the engine but it quiets down somewhat after it has idled for a short time. Aren't lifter noises more of a ticking? This is a knock. I am upgrading from an 89 Firebird with a 2.8. I am not familiar with the LS-1. Are these engines prone to engine problems? i.e rods, lifters......
    Looking for recommendations as what to check when I go back to look it over. The check engine light is also on but I'm going to take a code reader back with me.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    99 WS.6 - Modified

    G'day and welcome to the site, Aaron. LS engines are just like any other engine, and when properly maintained can run strong and long. Without actually hearing the noise, I would recommend pulling the valve cover if possible to inspect the rockers. Check the valve springs as well. If the engine was revved high, it's common to bend pushrods. I would also check the fluids, and see if there is any cross-contamination of fluids - ie. coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant, ect.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    99 WS.6 - Modified

    You can also use a dowel or screwdriver pressed against the valve cover, and other areas, and your ear to try to locate the exact location of the noise. Hopefully it's not in the bottom end of the motor. That could indicate a bad bearing or rod knock.

    As always, use caution if you do use that method.

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    Thanks, I'm taking my brother in law back with me. He has access to a stethoscope with a wand so we can listen to where the knock is coming from. If it is a lifter, ballpark on parts? I know a rod or bearing is big$$$. Trying to get an idea of what to offer taking repairs into consideration. It's in decent shape but needs a thorough cleaning and the hood needs paint because the clearcoat is trashed. They are asking 6000.00 but that seems a bit high for what it is.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    99 WS.6 - Modified

    Pricing depends on what you want to do, as in upgrading to better parts, or leave it stock, and how much you can do yourself. Overall, it's usually relatively one of the cheaper things to do. I would give the car a good inpection, as it sounds like it may have been used and abused.

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    Welcome to the site! How is the oil pressure at idle and around 2,500 rpm?

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    Going back tomorrow to look it over again. Oil pressure was normal at idle. I didn't rev it up because of the knock. I have a stethoscope and a code reader b/c the check engine light is also on. Any ideas on what else to look at?

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    Welcome Aaron. Glad to see yet another new member. You'll learn a lot here and don't be surprised if we learn a few things from you as well.
    If it were me, before you start to tear things apart, I would change the oil/filter with a quality brand of synthetic oil. Put in 5 quarts and then 1/2 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. So you should now have the fill requirements of 5.5 quarts. Give it some good runs maybe over a two week period and then do the same change again for the second time. Don,t be afraid to run it hard. Not beating on it but get it working up the tach scale.
    About a year ago I bought a 2002 WS6 with 8,000 miles and it had, IMO, a lot of what I would call lifter clatter. I knew the engine wasn't beat on so I discounted the idea of a bent pushrod. I also figured the previous owner may have changed the oil once in 8K. After three oil changes, as described above, and 4,000 miles the difference is remarkable. It might be worth a try. I would also be careful about taking advice from people who don't know these motors. Stay with this Forum and you'll be ok.
    I don't know if this pertains to you or not, but I would also change the trans fluid & filter as well as rear differential oil. If you change the rear diff fluid I would recommend putting two (2) of the little slip additive in instead of just the one that is called for. The clutches in my rear diff would slightly stick after cornering and I would hear a knocking sound from the rear of the car that drove me nuts to find.
    Maybe before starting any of this advice a qualified tech with knowledge of this motor could hear it in person. The You Tube videos I have listened to are tough to pinpoint phantom noises.
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    I would walk away from that deal unless you are prepared to go all the way if you have to. Good luck.
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