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Thread: droppin the TA

  1. #1
    Sleeper Brad(WS/Z0.6)'s Avatar
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    2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

    droppin the TA

    i want to drop my car an inch or two...i have been told that i can simply cut half a coil out of each of my springs and just put them back in...is there anyone who can verify this or has any suggestions??? Thanks

  2. #2
    Pony_eater Pony_Eater's Avatar
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    2000 trans am ws6

    dont cut the springs ...springs are made the length they are for a reason...ride comfort and drivability will suffer if you cut them. appearance wise it will look good but functionality will suffer.

  3. #3
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    '18 CTS-V
    '13 ZL1

    invest in the Eibach LT1 prokit. it's what i have on my car. perfect height after being dropped. the front springs have a higher spring rate so that the front is not slammed down and you have issues going over speed bumps...




  4. #4
    Sleeper Brad(WS/Z0.6)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    invest in the Eibach LT1 prokit. it's what i have on my car. perfect height after being dropped. the front springs have a higher spring rate so that the front is not slammed down and you have issues going over speed bumps...

    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    i was actually just lookin at those...not a bad price either...your ride looks good also...drop looks like it sits very nice afterwards..i think i just made my decision....lol

  5. #5
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    '18 CTS-V
    '13 ZL1

    the SS has a nice slight forward rake, that's what i like about it...

    now, on my '95 TA project car, im going LS1 prokit on it to really slam the car down low...

  6. #6
    Sleeper Brad(WS/Z0.6)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    the SS has a nice slight forward rake, that's what i like about it...

    now, on my '95 TA project car, im going LS1 prokit on it to really slam the car down low...
    sweet man..i hope that it works out for you like the SS did...i can't wait to drop mine down...good luck with the 95!!

  7. #7
    Member BirdCountry02's Avatar
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    2002 Trans Am M6

    heres a question related but not on topic, is puttin in your own lowering springs a good idea? i've heard if you haven't done it there can be complications like losin a spring shootin through the fender, but is this something that would be easier paying someone to do?

  8. #8
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    '18 CTS-V
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    thanks, best of luck with lowering your TA as well...

  9. #9
    Member transamdude99's Avatar
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    red
    1999 Tran-Am WS7

    i have the eibach pro kit on my TA and i love it how it looks and rides. i also threw in sway bars to get rid of the roll. but yeah, its a nice little kit
    1999 Trans-Am
    Lid, Flowmaster cat-back, Eibach 1.25 Pro Kit, front and rear Eibach Sway bars, LS7 clutch C:\Users\Troy Boy\Pictures\Leonidas1.jpg

  10. #10
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BirdCountry02 View Post
    heres a question related but not on topic, is puttin in your own lowering springs a good idea? i've heard if you haven't done it there can be complications like losin a spring shootin through the fender, but is this something that would be easier paying someone to do?
    i did the rears because they are easy and straight forward to do. the fronts are harder because it takes a #50 torx head to loosen and remove the bolts holding them in the strut mounts. you will need a spring compressor to compress the springs for the front (not needed in the rear), and that's where if you don't do it right, the likely hood of a spring flying off in some direction is a possibility...

    i took mine to a local performance shop for the fronts and glad i did. the rubber isolator on the passenger side was rotted away, which they replaced. you might run into that, or you could strip the nut to the spring. basically a whole host of issues could arise with doing the fronts (or no problems at all). they had both sides installed in about an hour. far quicker than i know i could have done so by myself and charged my only 1hr of labor to do so...

  11. #11
    Member BirdCountry02's Avatar
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    Maple Red Metallic
    2002 Trans Am M6

    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    i did the rears because they are easy and straight forward to do. the fronts are harder because it takes a #50 torx head to loosen and remove the bolts holding them in the strut mounts. you will need a spring compressor to compress the springs for the front (not needed in the rear), and that's where if you don't do it right, the likely hood of a spring flying off in some direction is a possibility...

    i took mine to a local performance shop for the fronts and glad i did. the rubber isolator on the passenger side was rotted away, which they replaced. you might run into that, or you could strip the nut to the spring. basically a whole host of issues could arise with doing the fronts (or no problems at all). they had both sides installed in about an hour. far quicker than i know i could have done so by myself and charged my only 1hr of labor to do so...
    thats what i was kinda worried about, but thats a great idea. i'll probably do what you did and do the rear and take it to the shop in town for the fronts. thanks man, thats exactly what i needed. my car looks like an suv, i need to drop it bad too. oh and brad good idea, drop it. it'll look amazing

  12. #12
    Member BirdCountry02's Avatar
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    Maple Red Metallic
    2002 Trans Am M6

    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    invest in the Eibach LT1 prokit. it's what i have on my car. perfect height after being dropped. the front springs have a higher spring rate so that the front is not slammed down and you have issues going over speed bumps...

    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    oh and also, your SS looks great. good job

  13. #13
    Member transamdude99's Avatar
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    1999 Tran-Am WS7

    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    i did the rears because they are easy and straight forward to do. the fronts are harder because it takes a #50 torx head to loosen and remove the bolts holding them in the strut mounts. you will need a spring compressor to compress the springs for the front (not needed in the rear), and that's where if you don't do it right, the likely hood of a spring flying off in some direction is a possibility...

    i took mine to a local performance shop for the fronts and glad i did. the rubber isolator on the passenger side was rotted away, which they replaced. you might run into that, or you could strip the nut to the spring. basically a whole host of issues could arise with doing the fronts (or no problems at all). they had both sides installed in about an hour. far quicker than i know i could have done so by myself and charged my only 1hr of labor to do so...
    i got my setup through my old job that i was with at the time and then me and a buddy i worked with lowered it ourselves at work on a day that we were closed. the rears took maybe 10 minutes to do while the fronts took a couple hours. save the money and do the rears yourself. its not too hard

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