Does anyone have pictures of a red unlowered Trans Am?

**jrbonds** · 05-11-2011, 06:22 AM

I am having issues with my car "bottoming out" in the rear on bad roads and certain bumps and such. Its to a point where I cannot handle it anymore. I replaced the shocks last week, and the bump stops look brand new. My car has the Eibach Pro Kit on it.

Maybe if I put the stock springs on the rear that would change it up, has anyone ever done that? My car tends to sag in the back anyway. Maybe putting the stock springs on the rear would give it a cool stance.

But first I'd also like to see some unlowered Red Trans Am's. Anyone help me out with this?

**Knight** · 05-11-2011, 06:31 AM

Don't know if this'll help you or not -

**jrbonds** · 05-11-2011, 06:40 AM

It sits way higher than I thought. Don't know if I can pull that off. Just trying to find inexpensive fixes for the moment. Maybe at the end of the summer I can buy the high dollar shocks that fix the problem.

**Knight** · 05-11-2011, 06:42 AM

The one in the pic is my buddy's 96 WS.6. I don't know if the height changed year to year or not. It is stock though.

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-11-2011, 06:42 AM

Check your bushings for your LCA's and PH bar. If they are worn they can give you the same feeling. I know this because mine are doing the same thing.

I've changed my springs (Hotchkins now) and shocks, even replaced my bump stops (they were gone) and still have it when I hit a bump. Only thing left is those items I mention above.

Also check the area that the spring seats in to.

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-11-2011, 06:46 AM

Originally Posted by jrbonds

It sits way higher than I thought. Don't know if I can pull that off. Just trying to find inexpensive fixes for the moment. Maybe at the end of the summer I can buy the high dollar shocks that fix the problem.

That is not the purpose of the shocks.

Springs control the decent of the car when it compresses.

Shocks control the rebound when the car returns to its natural ride height.

Meaning the shocks keep you from bouncing all over the place as the springs unload.

Watch a video of a a car that has wheel hop, that is your springs and shocks at work.

**jrbonds** · 05-11-2011, 06:48 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Check your bushings for your LCA's and PH bar. If they are worn they can give you the same feeling. I know this because mine are doing the same thing.

I've changed my springs (Hotchkins now) and shocks, even replaced my bump stops (they were gone) and still have it when I hit a bump. Only thing left is those items I mention above.

Also check the area that the spring seats in to.

Ok, cool. See I searched the suspension forum and the LCA's and PH bar bushings never came up.

It wouldn't be such a big deal on all the roads, except the the country paved road that is ten miles long and its the only way to get to the main highway from my house. I travel that road sometimes 6 times a day. I would be better off fixing the trans am before Grady County Road Maintenance ever ever ever did anything to that road, been that way as long as I've had my license (15 years now).

What does the area where the spring seats into suppose to look like or is it suppose to have a rubber cap on both ends of the spring like my mustang does?

**justinmc978** · 05-11-2011, 10:30 AM

hope this helps...

**justinmc978** · 05-11-2011, 10:35 AM

Originally Posted by jrbonds

What does the area where the spring seats into suppose to look like or is it suppose to have a rubber cap on both ends of the spring like my mustang does?

front has rubber caps on both ends

back springs are seated on metal

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-11-2011, 12:09 PM

Originally Posted by justinmc978

front has rubber caps on both ends

back springs are seated on metal

^^
Correct.

OP, look to make sure there is no metal fatigue like cracks.

Also in regards to the springs make sure they are seated properly. I went back about a month after I swapped springs and checked them. The rear passenger side has always been the source of my issue. While my car was on jack stands and the rear axle was without a load I was able to move that spring very easily and it had lots of flex. I used a floor jack and lifted the axle to give the springs a load. Tried it again and the same side was more loose then the drivers side.

So, I loosen the shock, dropped the jack and pulled the spring. Made sure I had it in properly, looked at the top where it meets the body for any damage = nothing. So I resit the spring, installed the shock, and checked all again one more time. This time without load, it didn't move as much or flex as bad as before. Under load, even less.

After a few test drives and several trips down some roads that used to annoy the hell out of me, it seems to drive much better. I can still bottom out but only if it's a crater that I can't avoid.

Also, F-bodies are not know as the smoothest rides out there.

When I swapped my springs I took height measurements.

OEM Springs

Front was 26.5" both sides, rear drv 26.5", rear pass 27.25"

Hotchkins 1" Dropped Springs

Front 26.5", Rear drv 26.5", rear pass 26.75"

Almost no change. Either my OEM springs were worn out or my yr had weak springs. My buddy has a 99 and his sits almost 3" higher at the same measurement locations *. I do know that spring heights and firmness varied from yr to yr.

*- My measurement points are from the ground through the center of the wheel hub to the bottom lip of the finder.

Last thing - Bushings, Yours are 13 yrs old, OEM rubber. If you are not the first owner, who knows how it was treated. Anyways the bushings do go bad and wear out over time. You won't be able to tell just by looking at them unless they completely fall apart on you. Its a good idea to replace them. One thing though, Poly bushings (pros) will give you a stiffer ride and better handling, (neg) you will feel bumps more. you have to pick your poison here.

Suspension FYI,

LCA - keep the axle squared to the the frame/drive train.
PH Bar - keeps the axle parallel to the frame/drive train.
TA - keeps the axle from rotating (changing the pinon angle) while under load from the drive train
Springs - absorb the energy while it compresses from the weight of the car
Shocks - absorb the energy from the rebound while the springs decompress
Sway bars - control body roll by linking the 2 wheels together

**jrbonds** · 05-11-2011, 12:22 PM

Im beginning to believe Im just stuck with this bottoming out thing if I want the lowered car.

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-11-2011, 12:31 PM

Here's mine with a 1" drop and 17" wheels

Come to think of it I haven't had many issues since I got my 17x9's. And new tires. I forgot to say that your tires harness can effect the ride too.

Are you running on stock 16x8's?

**jrbonds** · 05-11-2011, 12:36 PM

No I have the Speedlines...17x9? I think. 275/40/17's all the way around.

I don't know what the Eibach prokit is 1.5 inch lower. But I do remember that the Sportlines that were on it when I bought it made it much lower and I don't remember it having this issue. I only traded those out because I wanted long tube headers and thought I might scrape more with sportlines.

**silverWS6** · 05-11-2011, 09:16 PM

Maybe do the heater hose mod to some stock springs for now?

**95camaroZNC** · 05-11-2011, 11:02 PM

Mine not lowered.

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-12-2011, 06:42 AM

you also have the tennis ball mod to for the springs.

**jrbonds** · 05-12-2011, 06:51 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

you also have the tennis ball mod to for the springs.

Tennis ball?

I get the heater hose, but where does a tennis ball go?

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-12-2011, 09:39 AM

I wouldn't do this and I can't see how it would really work. It's just something I've read that could be done to help.

But, you put the car on jack stands, lower the axle down to take all of the load off the springs. Next insert a tennis ball in between the coils. Slide the ball as far up the spring as it can go. It is suppose to act like a wedge prevent the spring from compressing as much, kinda like a block.

The more I think about it the more screwy it sounds.

then again ppl use an air bladder in the passenger rear spring to level out during launching at the track.

**jrbonds** · 05-12-2011, 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

I wouldn't do this and I can't see how it would really work. It's just something I've read that could be done to help.

But, you put the car on jack stands, lower the axle down to take all of the load off the springs. Next insert a tennis ball in between the coils. Slide the ball as far up the spring as it can go. It is suppose to act like a wedge prevent the spring from compressing as much, kinda like a block.

The more I think about it the more screwy it sounds.

then again ppl use an air bladder in the passenger rear spring to level out during launching at the track.

Yeah I don't see how that would help. But I do know that I'm going to figure something out. All the bushings in the back look great, so I'm thinking its probably the springs themselves. Because it just didn't do this with the Sportlines on the back. Might buy another set of those and just replace the rear.