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Thread: Do i need a tune?
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08-21-2010, 12:02 AM #1
Do i need a tune?
When my car is idleing my battery meter drops and jumps around, but ive put a jet stage 2 chip, 80 series flowmaster, all royal purple fluids, as far as performance upgrades go, but some one mentioned a may need a tune to bring my idle up a little cause when im driving and the rpm is above idle the battery needle is in normal range. So what do i need to do? and how do i post pics in threads cause im havin problems doin it i wanna post some pics of my car but cant. thanks
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08-21-2010, 12:55 AM #2
Is an ses light on in the guage cluster?
There is a code sticky that will tell you what needs to be fixed if this is the case.
There are a couple things that could be done differently, but if you are going to be dropping that kind of coin on oil you may look through this
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1299
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08-21-2010, 12:58 AM #3
you can go to photobucket.com and sign up for free. Upload your pictures to there and then just copy/paste the link with the img tags thats below the picture to the thread.
As far as your battery issue.....what rpm are you idling at? Your issue sounds mechanical to me and with your mods the car should run and act just like stock. It sounds like either something is causing the car to idle low or you have an alternator issue perhaps.
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08-21-2010, 02:17 AM #4
bout 600 is the idle, and no ses light and i tried the photobucket thing but once i put it all on the thread an try to post it dont load the page
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08-21-2010, 02:27 AM #5
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
probably a bad alternator
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08-22-2010, 11:21 AM #6
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Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
^^^this.
Possibly a loose battery connection, but most likely the alternator.
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08-23-2010, 03:53 PM #7
im goin to check the alternator, how do you know what amp it is and which one to get when replaceing my friend said mine isnt stock but i dont know
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08-23-2010, 07:09 PM #8
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Custom Swirly Black- 2001 WS6 M6
Is it stamped? Unless you can get a model number, there's no way of knowing what it should be at. You still should be able to take it off and take it to the autoparts store and have them test it.
Are you running alot of audio equipment? If not, you can just buy a stock alt.
Photobucket would def. help us tell you wether it's stock or not.
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08-28-2010, 03:23 PM #9
ya im runnin alot of audio but i have a power cap to help, and i cant get the photobucket to work ive tried for like a year to post pics on here and every time i finish the thread and go to post it it has an error and dont load the page
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08-29-2010, 03:03 PM #10
if you are running alot of audio then i must ask you how old is your battery? The reason i ask this is even though you are using a cap for the stereo all it does is stores electricity until it is needed for a big bass thump or something and then it takes the spike out of your cars electrical system. The reason i am thinking maybe battery is cause if your cars alternator is stock it is made for a certain amperage and if you are exceding the amperage which is probably 60 amps on stock then it is pulling the rest of the needed said amps from the battery to supply the power and if the batt is old and low then this will cause a problem. Also if you use the stereo and headlights and ac all at once sitting at idle then its just a matter of time before it is dead. IDK if you knew this already but figured i would help out with my 2 cents.
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08-30-2010, 12:54 PM #11
battery is 11 years old its the stock one i assume it was in there when i bought the car few years ago
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08-30-2010, 05:51 PM #12
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
dang, thats a long time for a car battery. Most crap out around 6 or 7 years. some even sooner than that.
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08-30-2010, 07:24 PM #13
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
I am more curious how a 'chip' works on these PCM's.....
Since the only way to tune is via handheld (worthless) or HPTuners (or similar) software.
And get that royal purple shit out of there ASAP. Unless you like your engine wearing faster than it needs too.
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08-30-2010, 07:27 PM #14
Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.
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09-01-2010, 01:45 PM #15
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Pewter- 2000 Trans Am WS.6
I agree with the royal purple statement. stop. stop now. stop forever. its all about the amsoil... or anything else for that matter.
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09-04-2010, 03:21 PM #16
im tired of spendin the money for rp anyway so whats best thing for our cars as far as oil an tranny fluid go
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09-05-2010, 04:47 AM #17
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Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
For a mostly stock engine, used oil analyis's (UOA) show that Penzoil Platinum (PP) works best in our cars.
For transmissions, most recomend what the owners manual says.
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09-06-2010, 10:11 AM #18
dont have an owners manual...
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09-06-2010, 01:31 PM #19
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
both the auto and manual transmission use regular Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Don't use synthetic ATF in the manual trans. Synthetic ATF is ok for the auto trans.
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09-06-2010, 05:21 PM #20
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2002 Trans Am WS6 NBM
Battery bouncing issues
I am having the same problem with my battery needle bouncing up and down. It happens when I am in park, but not when i am in drive. I can here the car idleing up and down also while the battery needle bounces. I have an Alpine Touch screen stereo with Boston Accustic highs and mids with a 300 watt JL Audio amp and 3 JL Audio W3's with a 1000Watt amp.
Does it sound like an alternator issue?Last edited by j nix; 09-07-2010 at 05:52 AM.
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