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do i need a torque converter?

This is a discussion on do i need a torque converter? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; ^^^Thanks for the link about the cam. Looks like it will sound aggressive at idle with that 112* lobe separation. ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    ^^^Thanks for the link about the cam. Looks like it will sound aggressive at idle with that 112* lobe separation. Let those limeys hear the sound of a proper American V8......but it will suck down the $6.50 gas.

  2. #22
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    luckily on base, the gas is american prices, so i'm catching a break there, but i still need to figure out something... what torque converter do i need? like, there's diff diameters, like, plates... i have NO idea about a transmission, so if some one can help me with a link to a 3200 stall that WILL work on my car, PLEASE SHARE!

  3. #23
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    so today i bought a new torque convert, BBK underdrive pulley, volant cold air intake, and the 160 degree SLP thermostat... should i notice the gains?? with the added mods, what do you think my HP increase is going to be?


    Just curious, how do people put pics up and the mods of their cars under everything they write? just curious!

  4. #24
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    i think i figured it out!

  5. #25
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talon_II View Post
    so today i bought a new torque convert, BBK underdrive pulley, volant cold air intake, and the 160 degree SLP thermostat... should i notice the gains?? with the added mods, what do you think my HP increase is going to be?
    you wont really gain any noticeable power. the underdrive pully's primary function is to protect your belt drive components from being wornout under high revs, and the CAI is just a CAI...

    but the higher stall will be fun to play around with, it will make the car feel more powerful with the 'neckbreaking' feeling from revved up launches

  6. #26
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    well that's a big plus! so i dropped 1260 bucks on all the parts this afternoon. they get to the mechanics tomorrow and i go to pick up the car on Friday. after i get it, i have some body work to do... the right headlight cover is not flush with the car, is there bolts on there or do i need to bend metal?

    i don't know how to show pictures on here, anyone have some tips?

  7. #27
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talon_II View Post
    well that's a big plus! so i dropped 1260 bucks on all the parts this afternoon. they get to the mechanics tomorrow and i go to pick up the car on Friday. after i get it, i have some body work to do... the right headlight cover is not flush with the car, is there bolts on there or do i need to bend metal?

    i don't know how to show pictures on here, anyone have some tips?
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138199

  8. #28
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    cool, thanks bro!

  9. #29
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    anyone notice the front right headlight cover?? how do i fix that?!

  10. #30
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talon_II View Post
    anyone notice the front right headlight cover?? how do i fix that?!
    there are several little adjuster screws all around the inside of it, these screws dictate where they headlight 'rests' when it is closed by bumping against bump-stops, (they make the 'ting' sound everytime you close your headlights) they have white heads on them, take the black cover/bezel off and you should be able to locate them.

    edit: come to think of it, these screws may be on the body instead of on the headlight assembly, it's been so long I can't hardly remember
    Last edited by justinmc978; 03-08-2011 at 10:54 PM.

  11. #31
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    okay, yeah, i'll give it a try when i get the car. another thing i'm curious about, i have 315/50/15 rear tires.. is that too big for the power i put out? i have:

    Volant Cold Air Intake
    LS6 intake manifold
    LS6 Camshaft
    Long Tube Headers
    4L60E with shift kit
    3000 RPM Torque Converter
    4:10 Gears
    BBK Underdrive Pulley Kit
    SLP 160 degree Thermostat
    DiabloSport Chip (hand tune)
    ALWAYS running Royal Purple

  12. #32
    Army Dude robcas47's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talon_II View Post
    okay, yeah, i'll give it a try when i get the car. another thing i'm curious about, i have 315/50/15 rear tires.. is that too big for the power i put out? i have:

    Volant Cold Air Intake
    LS6 intake manifold
    LS6 Camshaft
    Long Tube Headers
    4L60E with shift kit
    3000 RPM Torque Converter
    4:10 Gears
    BBK Underdrive Pulley Kit
    SLP 160 degree Thermostat
    DiabloSport Chip (hand tune)
    ALWAYS running Royal Purple
    You're off to a good start but keep in mind that if you ever decide to get a larger cam you may want to get a higher stall converter. I'm wondering how well this 3K stall will do with those gears. You might save some cash by installing the thermostat and CAI yourself, check out www.installuniversity.com for good how to info. I'm not gonna knock Royal Purple *cough* Sarge *cough* but there are a couple good oil threads on this forum I learned a lot from and no longer mess with certain products.

    ASA Cam, Built A4, 3500 Stall, LT's, ORY, Hooker CB, E Cut-out, Lid, Modified SSRA, , SFC's,UMI Tq Arm w/relo, Spohn LCA's, 3.73's, Free Mods, Dyno tuned by James @ SpeedShift Performance. Need more suspension mods!!!

  13. #33
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    oh nice!! thanks man, i'll check out those forums and see what i can find. the guy that has been putting my car together is actually about to put them in today and start it up.

    the reason for the smaller cam is just for the move to England, i'm looking at upgrading Cam/Heads/K member/rear end, when i get back. gives me time to save and do research so i can buy the best cam/head package to get the best bang for the buck.

  14. #34
    Junior Member Talon_II's Avatar
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    still not too sure why RP is bad... i see most people use Mobile 1... but RP seems to be better for the engine... i'm confused...

  15. #35
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    It comes down to UOA's. Taking a sample of used oil (during an oil change) and having it tested for various contaminants.

    Some oils show better UOA's than others over an extended period of time. It also tells you alot about the inside of your engine and how it is wearing. As well as whether your air filter is doing it's job.

  16. #36
    Army Dude robcas47's Avatar
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    If you got some time on your hands this might be helpful.

    I'm a Oil Junkie

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