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Clutch/Transmission Engagment issues

This is a discussion on Clutch/Transmission Engagment issues within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey everyone, I've done a search on a few forums (including this one) about some problems i'm having with my ...

  1. #1
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    Clutch/Transmission Engagment issues

    Hey everyone, I've done a search on a few forums (including this one) about some problems i'm having with my 99 formula m6 but can't quite seem to find the same situation.

    I just replaced the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and the throw out bearing along with a new pilot bearing this weekend.i'm having the same problem as before though. I'm hearing a whirring sound coming from what sounds like the transmission.as if the clutch is rubbing against the flywheel the whole time im driving. whenever i hit a bump the sound gets louder everytime the car drops. and she is getting hard to put into gear, especially reverse (the whole damn car shakes when i pretty much force her into gear)

    Im almost positive i need to replace the pinion bearing as well due due ANOTHER whirring sound coming from the rear end (i've already replaced the carrier bearings which were pitted and have ruled out the axle shaft bearings)


    I'm wondering if since im having problems changing gears, almost like the pedal isnt engaging properly if it's the slave cylinder going bad/on its last leg.

    she's my dd so i'd really not want to take her to the stealership.
    Thanks for any help in advance.

  2. #2
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    What clutch did you install? Did you change the master cylinder?
    The fact that it's hard to put in gear could be a clutch disengagement issue but your problems sound internal almost as you mentioned. The clutch is supposed to be mated to the flywheel while you're driving, only time it comes off is when your foot is on the clutch pedal. One thing i can suggest is jacking the rear of the car, putting it in first gear, and revving the engine with your foot still on the clutch pedal. If the tires spin it means you don't have full disengagement which would make it hard or impossible to get into gears.

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    I did not replace the master or slave cylinder , which is what a few of my gear head friends are tellin me I should change ( the slave cylinder) and the back tires spin when I shift into first with the rear end up
    I replaced the clutch with the duralast replacement set. Something to tide me over until I fixed everything that was wrong with her... Or so I thought I could.


    When I finally get it in gear everything catches fine

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    Driving from work sucked today, there's no physical way i can down shift while driving on the highway unless i pump on the clutch. That is actually the only way i can shift with the least resisitance.

  5. #5
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Sunset Orange Metalic
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    Sounds like you should replace the master and give that a shot.
    The earlier models like yours came with a less efficient master cylinder, i believe they updated them in 01. You could have air in the hydraulic system as well but if you were having this issue before the problem could lie in the mc.

  6. #6
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    so esentially replace the master and slave cylinder, drain the system like its never been drained before and see if that fixes it?

  7. #7
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Basically, yes. These cars are tricky to bleed sometimes and it could take a while but hopefully that fixes your problem.

  8. #8
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Just make sure you use Dot III brake fluid and not ATF.

    I got my Master and Slave from gmpartsdirect (Sponsor) and both came already with fluid, bleeding took about 5 mins after install.


    Long story, shorten - Had a shop "bleed" my clutch and instead of reading the cap the dumb ass used ATF fluid. After going back and forth with the local and regional manager, it cost them new master and slave. They offer to do the work, I as I was walking out the door.

  9. #9
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    Lol nice
    I really appreciate the reply

    Is this a common thing with the birds when people change the clutch and not the master/slave cylinder?

  10. #10
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    Definitely sounds like a master/slave issue. My car did the exact same thing, right up until the slave exploded, leaving me with zero pedal and a 50 mile drive home. I had just replaced mine 6 months ago, but was uneducated of the fact that LS7 pressure plates are self-adjusting, and I didn't replace the clutch.... which would probably explain the untimely demise of the new setup...



    BTW, I am now educated of the LS7 self-adjusting pressure plate..........

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    Now in Summit LT1 Flavor! Y2KArcticSS's Avatar
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    Reeeeeeeepost

  12. #12
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    Damn. Yeah I don't want another car blowing up on me again lol

    Welp, looks like ill replace both of them this weekend and let you guys know how it all went on Monday !

  13. #13
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TacitCaucasoid View Post
    Lol nice
    I really appreciate the reply

    Is this a common thing with the birds when people change the clutch and not the master/slave cylinder?


    I'm of the school of thought that - I've torn down the tranny to get to the fly wheel and clutch, Changing the slave out for a new one while doing a clutch job, swapping the pilot bearing and making sure the rear main seal is still good while I'm here is just smart. Grant it I can tear a T56 out of my car in an hour I still hate doing it repeatedly. So doing it while I'm already there is reassurance and yes replacing a slave is a little extra $$$, but at least I know it is new and should not be a gremlin that sneaks in screws with things.

  14. #14
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    I have the same philosophy. I'm coming from the Honda world so I'm getting used to having to "pay to play" lol

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Not trying to insult you with this dump question, but are you sure you tighten all the bolts down? A loose tranny mount bolt or torque arm not tighten properly will make all sorts of noise. The tranny not seated properly against the bell housing will cause similar issues too.

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    No offense taken. I'd rather y'all cover everything vs assuming. But yeah I used a torque wrench with the degree add on.

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    Don't think we need to do shit now
    I revved the motor to bout 4.5k when i first started her up for about 2 seconds, shifted to first. And the clutch stayed down
    Not all the way to the floor though. I picked the pedal back up with my foot, pumped it a few times, and she's been shifting fine all the way home

    Granted I still hear the whirring sound coming from my rear end as well as a slightly louder whirring coming from somewhere in the trans

  18. #18
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    My guess is air in the lines, i wouldn't be surprised if it goes back to it's old ways but you never know.
    If it were me i'd still be going back and replacing the hydraulics.
    My .02

  19. #19
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    Well I was going to borrow some money from my best friend to do the job this weekend but I'm going to ride out it out until A she poops on me or B I save up enough to get everything checked out and fix it all at once

  20. #20
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Did you remember to reinstall the heat shield and put the hydraulic clutch hose behind it?


    Heat from the headers can greatly effect the fluid.


    My money is still on either air in the line or the slave has

    How many miles do you have on the tranny?

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