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Clutch job

This is a discussion on Clutch job within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Now I know why I got a good deal on my car: The clutch job is big$$ and no one ...

  1. #1
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    Clutch job

    Now I know why I got a good deal on my car: The clutch job is big$$ and no one wants to do it. Parts and labor are over $2k. I am thinking it would be foolish to pull the tranny just for the slave and not replace parts. Clutch kits from GM and NAPA contain the flywheel hence $400-$600.
    Dealer says 2 day job, other say 1 day job. Any of you guys been down this road.

  2. #2
    Member red00bird's Avatar
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    2000 trans am

    Last year I paid around 8 hundred for my stage two clutch kit from diamond when I receive my package my friend did it for me for a 150 bucks left the car wih him on Friday afternoon and got it back saturday morning not a big job with the correct tools

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    Kit

    Was the $800 for just the clutch kit or did that include the hydraulics? I priced the parts at the dealer and it was around $1100.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    My LS7 clutch kit (New Flywheel, disk and pressure plate) cost me $500. Slave $120 (gmpartsdirect)

    I did all my work with my teen son. I can with a lift, have it dropped and reinstalled in under 4 hrs. (I've dropped mine 3 times in the last 3.5 yrs)


    Doing it on jack stands in a home garage would make it a little tougher but it can be done.

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    Member red00bird's Avatar
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    It was for the whole kit clutch slave flywheel bearing pressure plate etc and make sure you buy a clutch for your goals if you mod the car enough you'll need a strong clutch a lot of ppl like monster clutches as well . I'll be pushing almost 500 rwhp by October and my clutch I rated for 600hp plans change as it was only going to be a cam only well now I brought heads and a fast so do it right the first time lol also a tick master cylinder and speed bleeder is highly recommended as well

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    Drop&Drag matt evans's Avatar
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    Monster clutchs have a sale right now on there clutchs 100 bucks off with free shipping. If you are going to go with a stronger clutch you may as well replace you cluthc master cylinder to. Mine went out a few weeks ago and could have just replaced it with a stock unit which was around 70 from autozone but I opted to upgrade everything and throw a torque arm and torque arm relocation bracket. After all said and done it cost me 1500 for everything, and I went with the Monster 3 and Tick master cylinder. Again pricy but well worth it.

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    clutch

    Did you buy direct? I dont see a huge sale on their site.

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    p.s. are the stock 6-speed clutches in the ws6 cars 11" or 12"

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    A clutch job with flywheel and slave should cost about 1,300 dollars tops including labor. If you have a lift you can use then you will save a few hundred dollars.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    cost

    AAMCO wants $1700 and that does not include the little extras like pilot bushing, rear main seal, etc. There are only a couple of big chains, rest are greasy hole in the wall places I would not trust them touching my car. Most people around where I live are not interested in doing it.

  11. #11
    Drop&Drag matt evans's Avatar
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    you can call steve @ monster he may cut you deal. And yes i ordered from them directly. Dropping the t56 out of your car really isnt all that hard to do. Pull your center console out and remove your shifter. remove your exhaust if you need to. Unplug your rear o2s and sensors in the trans, drop the crossmember, pop the hydralic line out and then its 8 bolts for the trans and it your basically done aside from pulling the bellhousing off which is a bitch then your pressure plate clutch and flywheel. Can be done in about 4 hours just have alot of extensions.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt evans View Post
    you can call steve @ monster he may cut you deal. And yes i ordered from them directly. Dropping the t56 out of your car really isnt all that hard to do. Pull your center console out and remove your shifter. remove your exhaust if you need to. Unplug your rear o2s and sensors in the trans, drop the crossmember, pop the hydralic line out and then its 8 bolts for the trans and it your basically done aside from pulling the bellhousing off which is a bitch then your pressure plate clutch and flywheel. Can be done in about 4 hours just have alot of extensions.
    Also need to drop the drive shaft and torque arm. I always drop the tranny off the bell housing. Reason why - trying to get the bell housing bolts on the top side is just hard as hell to do without very long extensions. My first time I was giving instructions that said I needed to remove the bell housing and tranny together. After 4 hours of trying to get the top 2 bolts off I said screw it threw the directions away and remove the tranny. Took all of about 5 mins to remove those bolts and another 3 to take it off the bell housing. Found out later that the directions I was given were for auto's

    Now reinstalling - I didn't replace my rear man seal or pilot bearing because I had no leaks and the bearing look good. If you need to fix it add another hr of work.

    You will need an aliment tool in order to line up the clutch while tightening it to the fly wheel.

    Don't forget you have 2 torque specs to tighten the fly wheel and clutch.




    If you lived up near P-cola I'd just come over and help.

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    clutch

    What are the 2 torque specs on the flywheel? How high up (bottom of door sill to ground) was the car?

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    Drop&Drag matt evans's Avatar
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    youll have to replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts as they are torque to yield. Most clutch kits will come with a line up shaft.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnfin View Post
    What are the 2 torque specs on the flywheel? How high up (bottom of door sill to ground) was the car?
    Torque specs give me a min to find.



    How high? - I have access to a lift but if you need to do it at home it would be like doing headers. Get 4 jack stands and raise it to about 18"-20" should be enough. Also use a floor jack to assist in lifting/lowering that heavy transmission.

  16. #16
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Bell Housing to motor - 37ft lbs
    Flywheel - 1st pass 25ft lbs, 2nd pass 52 ft lbs. each pass in star pattern.
    Clutch to flywheel - 35 ft lbs



    Matt is correct about torque to yield, for some reason gm likes 'em. The flywheel and clutch plate are, the bell housing to engine and tranny to bell housing can be reused.


    I swapped to ARP bolts for my Bell housing, fly wheel and clutch plate.

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    So its manditory to replace the crank to flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts? Do you guys also replace the rear mail seal when apart? What is the life of a rear main seal?
    I found the 98' repair manuals online but they talk about seeing a manual like MM6 or MM47 for removal of the tranny. Is that a suppliment? I would like a copy of that.

  18. #18
    Drop&Drag matt evans's Avatar
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    this should sum it all up for you.




    takes about 30 min to watch but this is should answer all your questions

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Not too bad. A couple hours and you're doneski.

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    I was under the car today, dont see how you can tilt the engine and trans without the oilpan crashing into the k-member. Its about a 1/2" clearance. Also doesnt look like I wil have to drop the factory exhaust, Tailshaft should clear the Y connection. Now at the lowest point ofthe trans (tailshaft connection) I have 9" to the floor on low rider ramps. Is that going to be enough. On 4 ramps I may get another couple of inches.
    Doubt a few hour job, I have a feeling the rear main seal will need to be replaced too. Torque to yeild bolts, specs, all the parts and pieces, Its a huge job to do it right.

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