A/C affected by trans cooler?

**RUFFTURBO911** · 06-06-2017, 03:49 PM

Hello all, I'm looking for temp results of dope style and conventional cooler mounting.
I'm looking to do a bypass of the stock cooler along with a bypass of the stock p/s cooler to lower my temps overall.
My guess is 170+ temps coming off a cooler mounted in front of my AC condenser will affect my AC when I need it most. I don't want that. I want AC when it's over 90 and humid.
The dope style 24k B&M cooler mounted below the horns seems like it wouldn't get enough air flow to be effective.
My question is has anyone seen their air conditioning drop off with conventional cooler mounting and do the dope styles cool efficiently without direct airflow? Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**RUFFTURBO911** · 07-09-2017, 07:39 PM

Nobody?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**Whamhammer** · 07-10-2017, 07:55 AM

Originally Posted by RUFFTURBO911

Hello all, I'm looking for temp results of dope style and conventional cooler mounting.
I'm looking to do a bypass of the stock cooler along with a bypass of the stock p/s cooler to lower my temps overall.
My guess is 170+ temps coming off a cooler mounted in front of my AC condenser will affect my AC when I need it most. I don't want that. I want AC when it's over 90 and humid.
The dope style 24k B&M cooler mounted below the horns seems like it wouldn't get enough air flow to be effective.
My question is has anyone seen their air conditioning drop off with conventional cooler mounting and do the dope styles cool efficiently without direct airflow? Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know if what "dope style" is but your A/C should be able to keep up, even during the 100 degree, high humidity days.

My thought is that, to the very least, you probably need a refrigerant recharge, and to run the system the a machine that will dehydrate the system. Have them check for leaks, or a bad receiver-dryer unit.

**RUFFTURBO911** · 07-10-2017, 10:48 AM

Dope style is mounted flat against the bottom of the radiator support usually behind the air dam on a 4th gen. I mounted my PS cooler that way and with a Hypertech 180 degree fan "tune" the car runs much cooler.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-10-2017, 01:32 PM

That location isn't going to help much if it's behind the air damn. The purpose of having it in front of the radiator/ac condenser is to put it into the air flow.

Just my 2 cent opinion.

**Whamhammer** · 07-10-2017, 07:35 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

That location isn't going to help much if it's behind the air damn. The purpose of having it in front of the radiator/ac condenser is to put it into the air

Just my 2 cent opinion.

^^ Agreed. I can't tell you how many later third gen Firebird owner that I talked to, when I worked at Pontiac, that thier cars would overheat while driving.

It was because they ripped off the Lower air dam that would push air into the condenser and radiator.

**RUFFTURBO911** · 07-10-2017, 09:00 PM

I'm not too concerned about the "DS" PS cooler even though it's not directly in a path of clean air. From the factory the PS fluid was "cooled" or more likely heated by the WS6 in line radiator hose cooler and since I'm not autocrossing it should be fine. I can't swear my new cooler is more efficient than the original factory one but it's better than nothing. Now, the remote mounted cooler has definitely eliminated an additional strain on the cooling system while still cooling the ps fluid. Soon the trans cooler will probably go above and in front of the air dam unless I remotely mount it behind the air dam and drill a few holes. Small holes just to give some airflow but not to divert too much from the radiator which will defeat the purpose. Keep in mind I have my fan speed it's adjusted by the Hypertech Hyperpac so above 180 degrees,whether or not the car is at any decent speed my high speed fans kick on.
So, if I do the transmission cooler dope style as well I take a further strain off the engine cooling system and bypass the radiator completely. And whether or not a drill holes in the air dam I would assume the Air is swirling behind it and giving it some sort of additional efficiency.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**pajeff02** · 07-12-2017, 05:27 PM

For our trans cooler I opted for a standard tube and fin style versus stacked plate style. Since the radiator is laid back at an angle, the tube and fin cooler would have better airflow through it imo. Unless you are running an excessively large trans cooler, it should have negligible impact on your AC efficiency.

**RUFFTURBO911** · 07-12-2017, 05:58 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

For our trans cooler I opted for a standard tube and fin style versus stacked plate style. Since the radiator is laid back at an angle, the tube and fin cooler would have better airflow through it imo. Unless you are running an excessively large trans cooler, it should have negligible impact on your AC efficiency.

I agree with you that the airflow is better through the tube and fin design but does the increase in efficiency of the stacked plate make up for the "heat soak" or whatever they call it, especially like in radiators with thicker cores when not getting a lot of airflow? Maybe tube and fun is more efficient in that situation. I believe the angle of the radiator is why the 4th gens got the thin 3/4" radiator cores.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk