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Thread: Broken Bolt

  1. #1
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    Broken Bolt

    I noticed a broken exhaust bolt. Drivers side close to the fire wall. Exhaust never off the car, whats the deal.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Is there enough to be able to get a grip on it?


    How far into the cylinder head is it?


    You may need to remove the head in order to get it out.


    Surprise you haven't had any leaks yet.

  3. #3
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    Bolt

    its broken off flush with the manifold. I am suprised it does not leak either.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    You may be lucky in that you might have just enough of the bolt to be able to take it off with some vice grips. You'll have to remove the manifold to do this. Also use liberal amounts of PB Blaster to get it out. And use anti-seize on install.

  5. #5
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    I seriously doubt you will get it out any conventional way. I bet if you look on the pass side, you will notice missing and or loose bolts. I think the reason for this is the way the engine rotates. It torques drivers side tight, and pass side loose.

  6. #6
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
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    I had the same damn problem happen to me when I was replacing my header gaskets. Mine broke off the head and it was passenger side next to the firewall, I ended up taking it out with some channel lock pliers after 2 hours and lots of cursing.


    It is now my trophy.

  7. #7
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    Bolts

    I looked, its the only broken one on the engine.

  8. #8
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    That's good news. Prob just leave it till the heads need to come out. Or, if you are feeling adventurous, try for it if/when you do LT's.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    That's good news. Prob just leave it till the heads need to come out. Or, if you are feeling adventurous, try for it if/when you do LT's.
    When you do your LT's get ARP bolts and use plenty of anti seize on them.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Agreed, takke the manifold off, soak the hell out of it with some pb blaster or other penetrating oil for a few hours, put some vise grips on it, and try not to snap the rest off

  11. #11
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    Its the head, not the manifold.

  12. #12
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    I understand that, but it would be a lot easier to remove with the manifold out of the way

  13. #13
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    engine

    Somtimes I think it would be easier to remove the engine to work on it. Has anyone ever removed one from above?

  14. #14
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Yes, but it is a PITA.

    remove hood, wire grounds, intake, heads, exhaust manifolds, transmission. That is to just get the block ready for removal. There's more but just giving the highlights.

  15. #15
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    im pretty sure the manifolds arent threaded, so if you take the other bolts out, and the manifold off, you should have 1/4 inch or so of threads sticking out to get some vise grips on

  16. #16
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spikito View Post
    im pretty sure the manifolds arent threaded, so if you take the other bolts out, and the manifold off, you should have 1/4 inch or so of threads sticking out to get some vise grips on
    If the bolt is broken off flush with the manifold, then you are correct.

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