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Bone Stock '00 WS6 having problems

This is a discussion on Bone Stock '00 WS6 having problems within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; 2000 WS6 Trans Am with an Automatic (bone stock) 62000 miles At Thunder Valley Raceway Park in Noble, Oklahoma Took ...

  1. #1
    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    2000 WS6 Trans Am

    Bone Stock '00 WS6 having problems

    2000 WS6 Trans Am with an Automatic (bone stock) 62000 miles

    At Thunder Valley Raceway Park in Noble, Oklahoma

    Took it to the drag strip last weekend and the FASTEST 1/4 time I could get was a 15.85.

    My 60' was 2.428.

    MPH was 90.09

    Here is some problems... I have noticed that my car feels like it is "holding back" on the low end, so I believe a tune may fix that?

    ALSO, my shift points must be horrible or something because when I shifted from 1st to 2nd at 5500 rpm, it shifted at 6000, which is probably about normal. But when I shifted from 2nd to 3rd, again at 5500, it didn't shift into 3rd until like 6500 rpm (which was killing my time), and I was DONE with the 1/4 before it actually shifted to 3rd.

    So basically I was only able to run the 1/4 with two gears...

    So I am stumped because I expected a bit more from my car.... obviously...

    I guess I just need a tune to fix shift points and whatever else may be affecting low end power. But I am wondering if I should wait to do any tuning until I get some mods done later this summer when I have the money (lid and ls6 intake, possible 100 hp shot nitrous, and LT headers/ORY/Catback)

    Any comments or recommendations are welcome because I need them.

    EDIT: I posted a thread in the General Help section regarding problems I am experiencing, you should check that out being I need help there too.

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...23#post2610923

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    I would begin with not manually shifting your a4, but let it shift itself. As for a tune, if you do plan on doing mods this summer, I would wait - no sense in paying for it twice in that short amount of time. You could also begin with simple maintenance if it hasn't been done yet - check/change fuel filter, clean the maf, check/change spark plugs and wires, ect. I am guessing that you don't have any codes coming up? Your 60' time will effect your time quite a bit, so I recommend more practice to drop it down. If you do plan on adding some power, I'd also look into sfc's and maybe a stall. Also, the rear differentials don't take to added power very well, so that should be a concern as well. I have learned it's better to build a solid car first, then add the power. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches.

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    I would begin with not manually shifting your a4, but let it shift itself. As for a tune, if you do plan on doing mods this summer, I would wait - no sense in paying for it twice in that short amount of time. You could also begin with simple maintenance if it hasn't been done yet - check/change fuel filter, clean the maf, check/change spark plugs and wires, ect. I am guessing that you don't have any codes coming up? Your 60' time will effect your time quite a bit, so I recommend more practice to drop it down. If you do plan on adding some power, I'd also look into sfc's and maybe a stall. Also, the rear differentials don't take to added power very well, so that should be a concern as well. I have learned it's better to build a solid car first, then add the power. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches.

    I only manually shift at the track, I let it shift itself daily driving and it still shifts like hell.

    And ya, my 60' time, I believe, is a result of the car not performing... I had it WOT, not spinning my tires at all at the track and only got a 2.43 with an A4... Thats why I think my car is holding back low end because it wasn't like I lost time because I was spinning, but rather because that is all it had.

    I do have the Service Engine Soon light on, which I read is a result of too lean/rich the car is running, which would be fixed up with a tune, right? To make it not too lean or rich, but right ratio?

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    You'd be better off at the track letting your car shift itself. Not to say changing the shift points won't help.

    But on to the problems - get the codes read so you can determine what is going on with it. A dirty maf, faulty o2 sensors, a clogged fuel filter, clogged cats, ect. can all cause your car to perform poorly.

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    I will let it shift itself next time I go, but still I think 0'-60' all takes place in 1st gear... meaning even if it shifted itself, it wouldn't have shifted during that time, which still doesn't explain the bad 60' time.

    Also, if I was shifting myself at 5500 rpm, even the car itself wouldn't have shifted before that, because if it did, it would go into 2nd without being in the power band, resulting in an even slower time.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    In the end, it really doesn't matter if you shift manually unless you shift it at a higher rpm than it is programmed for. With you shifting it at 5500 rpm, and the car not actually shifting until 6000, you really haven't done anything. But you are correct about the 60' time, which is why I would begin with getting the codes read, so we can determine what is causing the car to run poorly.

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Gotcha, I will get on that asap. My dad knows someone with a code-reader so we will go over and check it out sometime soon.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6Dream View Post
    Gotcha, I will get on that asap. My dad knows someone with a code-reader so we will go over and check it out sometime soon.
    You can post up the codes if you're not sure what they cover, and we'll get your car running like it should be.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    You'd be better off at the track letting your car shift itself. Not to say changing the shift points won't help.

    But on to the problems - get the codes read so you can determine what is going on with it. A dirty maf, faulty o2 sensors, a clogged fuel filter, clogged cats, ect. can all cause your car to perform poorly.
    +1 on everything here, run through this list

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    2000 WS6 Trans Am

    Just cleaned filter and took off the maf, but decided not to clean the maf until I get maf cleaner because I don't want to screw it up.

    My dad's getting a code reader tomorrow so we will know what the codes are tomorrow night.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6Dream View Post
    Just cleaned filter and took off the maf, but decided not to clean the maf until I get maf cleaner because I don't want to screw it up.
    good call

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    Senior Member Lunatikgixxer's Avatar
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    If youre not spinning in first gear running a 60' time like that on an a4 then there is something wrong for sure.

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    Yea, i had a old plugs, fuel filter, and a bad 02 sensor, it ran a whole 1.5 sec slower than any other stock SS at the time, did all that, and ran seafoam though it, and came back running like it should. Just basic stuff like said above will make a world of difference. Also, let it shift.
    2002 Camaro SS A4 - SLP# 2951 l MS4 l LT's w/ORY l F.A.S.T 78 & TB l Borla l Cutout l CME l TCI 3500 l 3.23's l !emissions l !sway

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    I've always shifted my AT cars manually, and I have always gotten quicker times that way. Only if your PCM is programmed to shift at the right RPM will manually shifting your AT car not help anything. Letting an AT car shift at ~5500 and saying that will result in a faster time is like telling an M6 car to shift there also, when if you get the shift to occur at ~6200 your ET/MPH will be faster, for a mostly stock LS1. However, if you try to manually shift it, and the shift happens so far off what you tell it to, like you saying it didn't shift until 6500 (which I doubt, since the OE tuning on these cars shut the engine down at 6200, BTW), then your transmission is having problems.

    That being said, your car has some other major issues, you should easily be going into 3rd gear at the top end of the dragstrip, and your car should be trapping over 104 MPH. What are the codes? I suspect your fuel pressure is low, that would account for the bogging off the line and low overall performance.

    So, what are the codes? That would be helpful. Also, what is the elevation of the track? Is it a real WS6? Maybe your car has 2.73 rear gears, a WS6 AT car should have 3.23.

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    i agree with too fast....i always had faster times when manual shifting....the delay between 2nd and 3rd will kill your times....practice your manual shifting so that you can perfect the transistion between 2nd and 3rd......and even with manual shifting there will still be a delay so you gotta time it right...shift it a little early goin into 3rd and it will compensate for the delay....i have had 3 birds and all of them did the same thing.

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Does your car have traction control?

    Did you have it on?
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    12.265 at 110.52mph

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    Now in Summit LT1 Flavor! Y2KArcticSS's Avatar
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    I drive a stick, so the AT problems I know nothing about. Elevation is not an issue in OK, we're between 600-800 feet, so OP should be running low to mid 13's, if the car was running right. My SS had fuel pump issues and bad cats that made it feel like total crap on the low end. My guess is O2 sensor or cats with that low of mileage.

    And don't ever use traction control. It is useless...maybe in the rain...maybe. Just makes a 6-speed stall if you're not careful. I just don't use it. /rant

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    I've always shifted my AT cars manually, and I have always gotten quicker times that way. Only if your PCM is programmed to shift at the right RPM will manually shifting your AT car not help anything. Letting an AT car shift at ~5500 and saying that will result in a faster time is like telling an M6 car to shift there also, when if you get the shift to occur at ~6200 your ET/MPH will be faster, for a mostly stock LS1. However, if you try to manually shift it, and the shift happens so far off what you tell it to, like you saying it didn't shift until 6500 (which I doubt, since the OE tuning on these cars shut the engine down at 6200, BTW), then your transmission is having problems.

    That being said, your car has some other major issues, you should easily be going into 3rd gear at the top end of the dragstrip, and your car should be trapping over 104 MPH. What are the codes? I suspect your fuel pressure is low, that would account for the bogging off the line and low overall performance.

    So, what are the codes? That would be helpful. Also, what is the elevation of the track? Is it a real WS6? Maybe your car has 2.73 rear gears, a WS6 AT car should have 3.23.
    It is a real WS6.

    You said the car shuts the engine down at 6200 rpm, which may have been what it was and that may be exactly what I mean by it. Almost like the car stopped producing power because such high rpms in 2nd gear. Then eventually (again, already done with the 1/4), it would go the 3rd and obviously "pull" (gaining mph) like our cars do so well.

    Altitude of track was 1165 ft. (source was dragtimes.com) I will check for myself when I go back with my Garmin.

    Still awaiting the code reader. My dad will have it tonight.

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    Member WS6Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by transamtom View Post
    Does your car have traction control?

    Did you have it on?
    I do not believe I have traction control. The traction control light would have come on (if its like in my mom's impala) if I had it and it was on, but it never did.

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6Dream View Post
    I do not believe I have traction control. The traction control light would have come on (if its like in my mom's impala) if I had it and it was on, but it never did.
    The traction control defaults to "on" the switch is above the ashtray to turn it off.

    If you were manually shifting and hitting the rev limiter that would slow you down to.

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