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Bleeding Clutch Hydraulics

This is a discussion on Bleeding Clutch Hydraulics within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; How do you bleed the slave cylinder, does it have to be done with the master attached and trans pulled ...

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    Bleeding Clutch Hydraulics

    How do you bleed the slave cylinder, does it have to be done with the master attached and trans pulled back to access the bleeder fitting. Seems very strange.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Go to forums and look for the sticky on this procedure. Also look for the drill mod. I recommend it.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    I went with the tick cylinder so I dont have to drill it. I will look at the sticky

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnfin View Post
    How do you bleed the slave cylinder, does it have to be done with the master attached and trans pulled back to access the bleeder fitting. Seems very strange.
    You'll need another person. One on the pedal and the other moving back and forth between the slave and the master.
    You'll need:
    I want to say it's a 10mm I used a box wrench,
    a small bottle that you can hang near the slave
    Tubing

    Remove the reservoir cap off the master. Next slide on some tubing so the fluid does make a bigger mess. Put some fluid in the bottle not much maybe a 1/4, no more then a 1/3. Place the tub into the bottle where the tube is submerged into the fluid. This is so in case the guy on the pedal lets off before you can close the valve it doesn't suck air back up. This is time consuming process. Open the valve, have the guy press the pedal down, close valve, pedal is release (first few times they will need to lift pedal up themselves), after every other cycle you need to check the fluid level in the reservoir, do not let it empty. Repeat till pressure feels right. It can take a while.

    Now if you have a mitty vac - I'm not sure of the procedures, (I need to add that to my Christmas list)




    Quote Originally Posted by johnfin View Post
    I went with the tick cylinder so I dont have to drill it. I will look at the sticky
    Great choice.

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    bleeding

    My tick came with an external bleeder hose so I guess I can button up the transmission and bleed it last then just tie wrap the bleeder hose to something, right?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Yes, run it along the hydraulic hose from the master to the slave. Hell zip tie together and remember to place them behind the heat shield otherwise it will cook the fluid and you'll not be able to shift.

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    If I remove the brake master cylinder out of the way do you think it would be easier to get at the clutch master cylinder?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    It could but it makes more work then necessary. Getting it out isn't the problem its getting it back in. There is a trick that helped me. Find a drill bit that is one size larger and open the 2 holes out a little bit. This will give you some extra wiggle room. You have to drive from the inside of the car out. Don't press to hard and push through the break master cylinder.

    Also there is a mounting tab that connects one of the break lines to the shock tower, remove it to help move around, don't forget to reinstall it.

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    SMWS6TAm was your exhaust connected when you replaced the master?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Yes, I told you in another thread that I've dropped my tranny 3 times, one of those was with the stock exhaust and the other 2 was with LT's.

    The exhaust really doesn't interfere with the installing of the master cylinder. The break booster does, you almost have to do it blind. I used a second person to push the bolts in the holes while I tried to get a nut on a couple of threads. Once I did all I had to do was tighten them.

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