Anyone have photo/good diagram of downstream bank 2 O2 sens?

**thomasterrible** · 01-03-2013, 01:01 PM

I need to replace the bank 2 sensor 2 O2 sensor on my 1998 WS6. The manual does not give me a good diagram or photo and I don't have a place to jack he car up as it is icy and not level where I am trying to change this. Does anyone have a photo or diagram to help me find it to figure out how I can best reach it?

Thanks in advance

**Mean Green Z28** · 01-03-2013, 01:52 PM

under the passenger footwell/seat alongside the trans downstream of the cat

**thomasterrible** · 01-05-2013, 01:11 PM

Thanks so much that was a great help. I just have a icy driveway and can't really jack the car up properly. Now I can see the bugger and have a chance at it.
Have a great new year! BTW upon really looking at the stock exhaust I think upgrading it is necessary for a decent flow. I recently installed a cam and some stronger engine parts and dyno tuned it but a new exhaust from the engine back is next on the list.

**2002ssslp** · 01-05-2013, 05:52 PM

Why freeze your ass off and maybe hurt yourself in the process. Pay some garage 40 bucks to change it for you.

**bhunter0830** · 01-06-2013, 01:23 PM

I'm crying inside to hear that it's on and icy driveway!

**thomasterrible** · 01-06-2013, 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by bhunter0830

I'm crying inside to hear that it's on and icy driveway!

It is just cold when the sun is out. No snow or ice during the times the sun is out. It is not flat however so jacking it up off the ground at any time is never a safe proposition. If I can get enough torque on it with the suspension jacked up but the tires still on the ground I will have a shot, if not then I just don't have any choice but to take it somewhere else. Either a shop or a flat safe place to jack it up. I have a 3 car garage but two bays are full of stuff that can't be moved and the third with my motorcycles. If only I had a bay open I would have it a lot easier. It is just going to be a big project to get there.

Money is just incredibly tight this month from some huge expenses accumulated the past several months. Of course if I just can't do this safely it is not worth risking getting smushed under my car to save a buck either. I appreciate the concern and agree, just willing to put forth every effort short of injuring myself.

**bhunter0830** · 01-06-2013, 03:32 PM

I have ramps that I made so I could get my jack underneath. $5 on a 2x8. That's enough space for me to get under and change the oil, and fiddle around. Cut in staggered cuts so you can drive up the steps. You can back up them and have enough space to change the rear o2's The plug's a bitch if you haven't done it before. I had the rear's deleted.

**thomasterrible** · 01-22-2013, 06:08 PM

I am going to try to use a lift at a friends house. What did you find difficult about replacing that sensor? I purchased an offset O2 sensor socket so that is easy enough to get on without having issues with clearance for the socket, it is about the same as putting a box wrench on it. I just don't have the car high enough to get under it (safely) and get enough muscle on the wrench. I have used penetrating oil and plan to do the change when the car is warmed up.
One thing that I noticed differently about the new sensor vs the one that is on there now is that the stock one has braided metal around the wires and I am wondering if that is removable to put over the new sensor?
Strangely enough this code for this sensor, specifically stating the heater circuit of it, came up as a pending code a year ago and went away. Then more recently it came up as a red code that it needed to be changed. I just changed out the TPS, IAC and IATS since it was not idling properly ever since a couple days after the motor work and dyno tune was done. The TPS actually gave a code and the other two were just obvious due to the way it was idling and now idles vastly better. After having changed those sensors and at least getting a wrench on the sensor and wires enough to realize I had to jack it up higher to have room for the wrench to move and get torque on the sensor the trouble code has mysteriously went away. I am going to replace the sensor but don't know that I will notice any difference at all once it is replaced. When I get a chance I am going to take it to a mechanic I use that has a big computer and can see how everything is working and if there are any other issues I am not noticing. While right now the idle surging and dying when put in to gear is cured I don't know if I should be feeling the car shake when idling by just having added a small cam. It seems to run really well although right now in winter I can't push the car very hard on frozen roads to see how acceleration compares to before. I think I will be best able to ensure it is tuned up as well as possible when the weather gets warmer and I can both drive it and work on it fully.

**bhunter0830** · 01-22-2013, 06:20 PM

You would be amazed what a bad O2 can do for idle and everything else. The cheapest and easiest it so unplug and move the O2 from one side to the other. It will tell you bank 1 or bank 2 if you have a it read at any auto parts store for free. If you have a few pieces of scrap wood laying around, you can drive up on them and have enough room to get to the O2's. I have some 2x6's stacked and screwed together since I can't get a floor jack under the car with out the extra lift. I can simply change the oil, replace the O2's and most anything that is under the motor A simple box wrench is all you'll need along with some elbow grease. If the code moved from one bank to the other, you know that's your issue. You can pick up an O2 for $40 - $50. That's less than a garage will charge you to diagnose and remove and replace.

**thomasterrible** · 01-22-2013, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by bhunter0830

You would be amazed what a bad O2 can do for idle and everything else. The cheapest and easiest it so unplug and move the O2 from one side to the other. It will tell you bank 1 or bank 2 if you have a it read at any auto parts store for free. If you have a few pieces of scrap wood laying around, you can drive up on them and have enough room to get to the O2's. I have some 2x6's stacked and screwed together since I can't get a floor jack under the car with out the extra lift. I can simply change the oil, replace the O2's and most anything that is under the motor A simple box wrench is all you'll need along with some elbow grease. If the code moved from one bank to the other, you know that's your issue. You can pick up an O2 for $40 - $50. That's less than a garage will charge you to diagnose and remove and replace.

I have a scanner and that was the code so I am sure that is the problem. Why it will make the check engine light go on and eventually go off again I don't know. I have already purchased a new O2 sensor for 37 bucks which I just need to install.
Like I said it has thrown out that code before but only as a potential code vs a hard code meaning that it was a yellow possible something wrong light vs a red for sure light according to the scanner manual.

Since the new TPS, IAC and IATS all made such a huge difference it would be great if this last sensor made it perfect. It just seems to idle slightly rough to me, the car shakes slightly sometimes not just hearing the engine have a bit of a lope with the different cam. That could be anything of course but it would be great to have the O2 sensor fix all. I just don't want to strip any threads removing it either or get squished under the car. I do have some low profile jacks so getting it up in the air is not an issue. I have some metal ramps somewhere but not sure if it will both allow me to drive up them or deal with the wide tires yet. I have some jack stands that I could put it up on too. Usually if I don't have a lift and need to get under the car I use two floor jacks and jack stands around it so I have multiple items helping to keep the car from falling. I jacked it up high enough to get the socket over the sensor but just not high enough to turn the wrench without getting under the car and even then not much room. So hopefully installing the new one at a safe place will do me some good. It said the fuel trim was at -3% which certainly would not help a larger cam idle better.

I might not know until I get the old sensor out but there is metal braiding over the wiring on the old sensor and not on the new one and I am hoping I can take that off the old sensor and swap it on to the new one for better protection. As far as the socket I really like it as it gives me a wrench that fits in to tight spaces and with the slot it in for the wires to go through.

**pajeff02** · 01-23-2013, 03:43 AM

I have changed out several sensors over the years... some come right out and others won't budge. A fire wrench will usually get the job done if all else fails.

- - - Updated - - -

I have changed out several sensors over the years... some come right out and others won't budge. A fire wrench will usually get the job done if all else fails.

**thomasterrible** · 01-23-2013, 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I have changed out several sensors over the years... some come right out and others won't budge. A fire wrench will usually get the job done if all else fails.

- - - Updated - - -

I have changed out several sensors over the years... some come right out and others won't budge. A fire wrench will usually get the job done if all else fails.

I live near Seattle and the temps have been cold, freezing at times, so I plan to warm up the car so the area the sensor is in at least is hot from the exhaust. I sprayed some penetrating oil on it when cold and then hot when I jacked it up enough to see I did not have enough height to do it in that spot. I am going to use a new home brew before attempting removal too though.

I was recently forwarded a test of penetrating oils from machinist's workshop magazine.
No Oil used ...................516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds (50/50 mix Automatic trans fluid and Acetone)

I want the best chance to getting the thing out and not damaging threads etc. As you say it might be really easy or might be super stubborn.

I know that the sensors come with a lubricant containing glass beads which is how the new sensor is already coated, though I plan to add some additional anti-seize afterwards. I hope that I don't have to use a torch or strip threads or anything like that. I think my best chance is heat, the penetrating oil and a bit of luck.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 01-23-2013, 05:43 PM

Like Jeff said, if it gives you problems, use heat.

**pajeff02** · 01-24-2013, 03:25 AM

Even a propane torch can be enough. My favorite trick is to touch a candle to it after everything is hot. The wax melts and wicks into the threads. This being said, you should just put your socket on it and see what happens before you worry about cooking up a witches brew.

**thomasterrible** · 01-24-2013, 09:37 AM

I agree with the using the heat if I have to. Though all I have is a propane torch to do that. I was just mentioning that I will at least first attempt to see if it will come out easily. I don't think trying out penetrating oil is not a bad idea, it just may not work and if so then on to the torch. I know these can be tough to remove and applying heat is the way to get them out and sometimes they damage the threads coming out and having to repair that.
I had just not seen this sensor to know exactly where it was and the photo that was posted helped me a lot. I just don't have a space in my garage or flat driveway etc. so that I could just look when I got it up in the air. I have now seen it, had a wrench on it and know what I need to do, it is above freezing today so I will probably try it today...and bring the torch with me.

I am also going to cover the new sensors wires with something like the braided metal on the old one.
Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.

**pajeff02** · 01-24-2013, 03:28 PM

DEI makes an adhesive backed heat reflective tape. I believe you can buy it at most parts stores. I used that on the wiring harness for both my wideband and electric cutout.