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Thread: 98 Trans Am
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07-29-2014, 07:15 PM #1
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- Jul 2014
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- Fullerton,Ca
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98 Trans Am Fair Price
Looking for a Trans Am 98 and over. I'm wondering what the average price is for under 100k miles? Thanks
Last edited by Louie2397; 07-29-2014 at 11:10 PM. Reason: Not enough description
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07-31-2014, 10:10 AM #2
There's going to be a ton of variation, but I think $8-15k is reasonable for a clean bird with no or very few mods. The problems you're going to run into are finding one with that few miles (not common anymore for a vehicle that stopped production 12 years ago) that's been properly maintained and hasn't been modded to oblivion.
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07-31-2014, 11:41 AM #3
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
also location, location, location.
I got mine 5 yrs ago for $6500 w/107k miles. It was in excellent condition. The 17yr old girl that owned it for 18months took awesome care and the original owner did so as well.
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08-15-2014, 09:11 AM #4
dont get 98-00 go with 01-02 with a zo6 block usually people ask crazy prices but just stick with a price, leave your number.. they will come back. bc a guy was asking 13k for 2000 ws6 with 85k and needless to say i spent 10 grand and i was behind the wheel an hour later very clean car too the reasoning is if you are planning on modding its just plain easier for the future with all the egr cap pcv system yuck and valley cover swaps intake swaps blah blah nah to mention the air pump the fuck..
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08-15-2014, 09:24 AM #5
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
No f body ever came from the factory with a Z06 block. Absolutely nothing wrong with pre-00' yrs. Some think the 98's are the better. No crack door panels, only yr to have functional water & battery gauges. There are pros and cons to each yr.
Now if you're thinking about the LS6 block, then yes some 01's and all 02's did come with the LS6 block.
Read this over.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/differe...y-years-27512/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/guide-buying-fbody-118628/
Also OP don't get too hung up on a WS6 package. I saved about $2k getting a "slick beak" (non ws6) because I knew I was going to upgrade to aftermarket everything that came on a WS6.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-15-2014 at 09:27 AM.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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08-15-2014, 12:12 PM #6
No matter what year F-body you go for condition is everything. Look for the cleanest and lowest mileage example you can afford. The "Guide to Buying an F-body" posted by Scott is a great starting point to educate yourself on what to look for. Our cars all have certain quirks, from leaky pinion seals, lousy DRL's and cracked door panels to bubbling sail tops.
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