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8 year/over 110k owner idiotic opinions

This is a discussion on 8 year/over 110k owner idiotic opinions within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by 9T8W66 I am not pointing a finger at any one in particular it's just that there are ...

  1. #61
    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    The 717

    2001 Trash Can

    Quote Originally Posted by 9T8W66 View Post
    I am not pointing a finger at any one in particular it's just that there are several people who clone WS6's and then claim it to be an Original one.
    These fools usualy try to sell the car off to an unsuspecting person (Newbie) who doesn't know to look for proper documentation (RPO Sticker) Some Used Car Dealers have even done this.
    I saw this 3 time when looking or my T/A. Luckily I did some research on the old ls1lt1 forum that had the rpo codes and the first 3 I looked at did not have the ws6 code; and others that go with it (I don't remember them since it's been a while), but were selling them as Ws6's...Probably chargiing more for them as well. They were all badged Ws.6 by the way, but no codes on the door sticker.

  2. #62
    Member 2-bowties&abird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008

    cam/lt headers
    blue 2000 ws6 m6

    Quote Originally Posted by 01ws6er View Post
    I saw this 3 time when looking or my T/A. Luckily I did some research on the old ls1lt1 forum that had the rpo codes and the first 3 I looked at did not have the ws6 code; and others that go with it (I don't remember them since it's been a while), but were selling them as Ws6's...Probably chargiing more for them as well. They were all badged Ws.6 by the way, but no codes on the door sticker.
    yeah alot of that was going on with people cloning iroc-z's

  3. #63
    down with the lot lizards blackhawk01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006

    2001 Camaro SS A4

    and firehawks

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2007

    88 CRX

    honda's do that to.
    slappin type s or spec R on anything they get ahold of.

  5. #65
    LS1 chosen son lemons12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007

    TA-White, Camaro-Black
    Track-TA98A4 DD-98z28M6

    thats just what i had seen somebody say?? maybe i misunderstood?? hell IDK??

  6. #66
    Member red99ws6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    tazewell, tennessee

    1999 Trans Am WS-6

    i bought my ws6 without knowing the rpo codes but got lucky that i got a real one

  7. #67
    Fuzzbuster Jr. fluke's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Cave Run Lake area, Kentucky

    2002 T/A WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by red99ws6 View Post
    i bought my ws6 without knowing the rpo codes but got lucky that i got a real one
    Me too. When I first heard about fakes I got really scared and went out and took a picture of my door sticker and came back in and deciphered the whole thing with the help of the forum. I was sooooo relieved to find out everything was a-okay and it was real.

    My 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6... ASC# 1244 ... Born on June 23, 2001

  8. #68
    Junior Member ws66sw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    gulf coast, texas

    00 formula ws6

    a rose by any other name.....

    i had several porsche 914s a long time ago. actually, there were not porsches...they were volkswagons, manufactured by the old karman gia factory (as evidenced by the metal build plate on the door panel) and they were powered by the 411 volkswagon squareback wagon 1.7 motor. they were marketed correctly as volkswagons in europe, but when they were imported to america, they were badged (by the factory) and marketed at porsche dealerships as porsches.

    well, there was another 914 known as the porsche 914-6. while it had the 914 body, this car had a porsche 911 6 cylinder (a real porsche) motor, 911 brakes, anything that was on a 911 that could be bolted onto the 914 was used. the 914-6 was built by the porsche factory and was the real deal. it was badged as a porsche 914-6 and was very fast, rare and expensive.

    that being said, me having a lowly 914 1.7 (vw 4 banger motor), i went to a dealership and bought a 914-6 badge and slapped that baby on. it was a magical transformation. i now had a very exclusive car and i was no longer some commoner. yes, i was now one of the beautiful and rich people and transformed my common volkswagon into a porsche supercar for only about $20!

    perception is reality folks!

  9. #69
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006

    2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT

    Quote Originally Posted by ws66sw View Post
    ok, bought my 2000 formula ws6 new. i logged on to shortly thereafter and ran up hundreds of posts, lost them all when the system crashed or whatever happened later. here are a few observations, right or wrong. feel free to correct me, but i got to get this out...

    1. the factory literature is a lie. it claims that the "air is force-fed" into the engine. forget the baffles in the hood for a second. there is an air filter between the hood air intake and the maf. any air flow at any speed coming in thru the hood nostril is running into a brick wall (air filter) before it goes into the motor. yah yah, i don't care if it is a low-restrictive filter. unless you got a blower between the hood intake and the filter so that the blower is sucking air in, nothing is getting force-fed. i had a bike once with a gear-driven supercharger between the air filter and intake manifold. now that was force-fed...air filter or not, air is going to get sucked in hard thru an air filter that is low-restrictive. the ram air hood is simply a fresh air intake, thats it.

    2. that being said, unless you regularly run your car for times at the track and need every hp and tenth second, modifying your stock ws6 hood's intake (baffles) is a waste of time and effort. you may gain a tenth or two in the quarter mile, but you won't feel it on the street if this is where you regularly drive, altho you may feel a psychologically-induced gain. in the meantime, you will get to worry about water getting in and causing problems. i have been in several severe rainstorms, bad enough to have to pull over because the windshield wipers could not keep up. the last thing i want to do is worry about all that water pounding against hood spraying into my intake because i took the baffles out.

    3. that being said, it is a good idea and a real gain (approx. 5-10 hp) to remove the stock air box (lid) and put in a real lid so that the air that is getting in can get straight into the maf without having to bounce all around in the noise air chambers the stupid factory put in on their box. and, despite what i wrote above, the bg system was and is still was a great product, providing you don't mind snapping in the rain baffles.

    4. during the summer, remove the rubber gasket between your hood and the engine (just below the wipers). it will allow hot air from your motor to have an easy avenue of escape. if you don't think this is worth it, remove it anyway and then feel the air gap after the car has been run. you will feel the hot air just blasting out instead of being bottled up. run your a/c at the "max" the interior cools, this will draw in the cooler and cooler air from the inside of the car, so you don't have to worry about the hot outside air getting sucked inside.

    5. unless you run at the track, forget all the c.s. methods of attempting to gain only one hp or two. you won't help your car or your times much. but you will be putting your car at risk. example: removing the maf may pick up a miniscule amount of hp (like one hp, if that), but now your motor has the danger of sucking in anything that gets by the air filter. nothing should, but freak things do happen.

    6. forget all that excessive oil consumption and the associated home-brew fixes. just run 20-50 fully synthetic oil. i made this change many years ago. no more oil consumption really, about a half quart every 2,000 miles. another advantage is that you can go 10,000 miles between changes. and with going with 20-50 weight, my oil pressure has gone up 5-10 psi. it don't matter if you live in iceland or texas. fully synthetic oil will always flow the same, cold or not. if you don't believe it, take a bottle of regular dino oil and a bottle of full synthetic oil and put them in the freezer overnight. in the am, take them out and see which one flows and which one don't. as a side note, my car has now over 110k miles and has not blown up yet.

    7. rear axle. forget all the gasket crap. the gasket route needs to be done only one time and this is the inital rear end fluid change for the first time. it has to be done because you have to get all that metal off the magnet during the wear-in period. after that, there is not going to be any more metal so why go thru all that gasket and scrapping stuff? just drain out as much as you can thru the fill hole and then pump the new stuff back in. it still takes over a quart and a half this way. use lucas or redline, they both contain the additives.

    8. the spark plugs and ignitions are not the same as during the 60's. back then, we had to change the plugs about every 10,000 miles and you were lucky to get 100,000 miles out of an engine before it was wore out. these motors are different. don't worry about changing your plugs every year, unless you got a miss or your car feels doggy. you can easily go 50-100,000 miles before you have to change with little to no drop in performance.

    9. your window motors and headlight motors and monsoon/cd player speakers are crap. they were designed to fail after the inital factory warranty.

    ok folks, come on in here and tell me how i got it all wrong! i gotta let you know that it takes a big man to admit he is wrong (i am not a big man). in closing, let me say this to all my fellow formula owners....HEY! HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR TRANS-AM? (my reply is usually something like this..."sir, this is a formula" (always the same dumb look on their faces regarding that)..."you see, the formula is a low-key car that does its talking thru performance, not looks. the trans-ams have all that goofy ricey ground effects and spoilers and crap and their swinging, gold-chain wearing, polyester shirt open to the waist owners exit their cars snapping their fingers to sammy h. blasting out "TRANS-AM" on the cd player!

    ok, if what i wrote earlier don't get my any abuse, that should! just kidding you guys.....mike
    Allright, you asked for it.

    1. Mostly true. But it is an ass-kickin' hood. Probably one of the best ever from GM.

    2. Took my baffles out, sealed hood with round rubber black heater hose, gained .1 and .5 MPH at the track.

    3. This is true! Gained about another .1 and 1 MPH with new lid.

    4. Proabably works, but I would not want to do this. I don't want the water getting in under the hood when it rains. Besides, at speed that is a high pressure area, think cowl induction, so maybe water gets in easier then. Doesn't Nascar use this area for their CAI?

    5. Agreed.

    6. True, synthetic pours easier and flows better, but you are not supposed to extend the change intervals with most of that synthetic. And, the higher wieght oil is costing HP, as evidenced by your running higher pressure. Just run PP 5w30.

    7. True. But it doesn't hurt to change it every 30k or so.

    8. Agreed.

    9. I would not exactly call this OE set up crap. Not high end, but not crap.

    Goofy, ricey ground effects and spoilers? Now you've done it. It is factory stuff, after all. And I do sometimes listen to that Sammy Hagar song, he likes Pontiacs from way back. He sings about 6.6s in another song as well, can't remember the name. I don't have any gold chains either, but I do have some hair on my chest to show off, how about you LOL. What do you play on your stereo, New Kids on the Block? I'll take my Godsmack, Rammstein, Metallica yeah even some old school Kiss sometimes.

  10. #70
    Member chuck4345's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    memphis tn

    2002 trans am ws6

    sorry miss type feb 09 for carmaro productions start jan 09

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