Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 41 to 60 of 63

1998 Trans Am - Should I buy?

This is a discussion on 1998 Trans Am - Should I buy? within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by Hot Black Trans-Am WOW, 6 speed vs TA, now that's a tough choice, I say TA, but ...

  1. #41
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Black Trans-Am View Post
    WOW, 6 speed vs TA, now that's a tough choice, I say TA, but 6 speed is so much more fun..... OK hold out for a 6 speed Trans AM.
    Lol. I would prefer a 6 speed in general, but my wife would like an automatic so she can drive it every once and a while. However, since this one is cheap and if it is a good deal, I could talk her into the 6 speed!!

  2. #42
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,511

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    to be honest driving a M6 is great and fun to be banging gears, makes for easier burn outs but....automatics have come along over the years. With the right stall & gears, autos are beating manuals at the track in greater frequency.

    Negatives - Getting stuck in heavy traffic gives you a work out, you'll have to service the clutch & hydraulics more frequently then automatics, the stock hydraulics have some quirks that with high rev rapid shifting you can grind gears. All of these can be replaced with better stuff.

  3. #43
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    to be honest driving a M6 is great and fun to be banging gears, makes for easier burn outs but....automatics have come along over the years. With the right stall & gears, autos are beating manuals at the track in greater frequency.

    Negatives - Getting stuck in heavy traffic gives you a work out, you'll have to service the clutch & hydraulics more frequently then automatics, the stock hydraulics have some quirks that with high rev rapid shifting you can grind gears. All of these can be replaced with better stuff.
    Thanks for your opinion SMWS6TA.

    Here are some more pictures that the dealer took today and sent me.













  4. #44
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Here is more.











  5. #45
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    For 3K the car looks in really good shape. He also told me that they just replaced the clutch. He mentioned the owner of the car woks at the dealer and traded it in for a truck.

  6. #46
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Alright, I just finished looking at the car and it is beautiful. Boy does she sound good as well! The paint job looks really good, but I did notice white substance in between the cracks/crevices of the of the quarter panels (you can see in the pictures). Not sure if it is from the primer or what not. He said when he painted the car he just taped off what he needed. He used a base coat and then clear coat. I asked him if he removed the handles form the door and he said no, he just painted it with them attached.

    Before I test drove the car, I did a complete inspection. He said the car has sat since lunchtime and when we started it up it, the oil pressure was around 40. We let the car idle for about 15 minutes as I walked around it and asked him questions. While driving the car for about 25 minutes or so the oil
    pressure was around 35.

    The car sounded good when I drove it. The headers and exhaust sound really good. There is no noise when you put it in reverse to go slow or driving forward. There is no whining noise when you're going at a high-speed. However, there is a vibration that you can feel in the foot pedal when you give it gas. There is also a dinging/banging noise up front. He said it's the long tube headers and they are hitting the engine/body because it's in a very tight space. Also, in the back you can hear the exhaust rattle some. I did not hear any rear-end noise.

    I asked him about the oil pump and he does not know if the oil pump was replaced with an LS6 oil
    pump. He traded a Chevy pickup truck for this car, and the gentleman who had the car, mentioned the guy before him was the one who had the engine and transmission rebuilt. Again, there is no paperwork. He mentioned he didn't like that there's no paperwork and if I don't believe him that's fine, but he has no way to prove it. However, I think the car drove really well for the 140K on the body and approximately 40,000 on the engine and transmission.

    The original seats that were in the car were hard and ripped. He replaced it with
    Camaro seats from a 2002 Camaro that was totaled. Also, he took the headliner from the Camaro to put in the Trans Am because there was not one. The car is missing the driver and passenger side visors, but there are holes for them. In addition, the seal on the outside of the bottom window looks like someone
    re-glued (or tried to fix it) it back together - you'll be able to see what I'm talking about in the pictures.

    Unfortunately, I was not able to see the underneath of the car on a lift. He works at his parent’s auto shop and all the lifts were taken or he would have put it up for me. From what I was able to see by my
    looking underneath the car it looks decent. The driver side long tube header looks rusted, but the passenger side header underneath looks nice and shiny. You can see it in the pictures.

    I took some pictures of the headers from the top of the engine and there is rust on both sides (which you can see in the pictures). Also, the wire that is running around the back intake is for the shifter. He said there is a three stage controller installed (he showed it to me). Middle is for stock, while up and down is for two different stages.

    The engine light is on, but that is because the car has not been tuned for not having the back cats or O2 sensors. Also, the security light is on, but he does not know why.
    I asked him if he was flexible on the price and he said yes. I asked him what is he looking to get out of it and he said he would like to get $5300 out of it.

    Overall, the car seemed really well, but the only thing I'm not 100% sure about, is why the long tube header is moving (hitting the engine/body), as well as the exhaust rattling. Also, I am not too thrilled about the amount of rust on the bottom of the car, but more so the headers.

    What do you guys think? What do you think about the pictures? Is it worth $5300 or no?

    I'm going tomorrow to see the Camaro so I will have something to compare this to. What do you think about the Camaro pictures?

    - - - Updated - - -




















  7. #47

  8. #48
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,511

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Exhaust - The drivers side looks horrible, they usually rust together at the same rate. I'm thinking that the drivers side header is an older one then the one on the passenger side.

    Exhaust rattles can be from several things - IMHO all of them are small - Header bolts backing off the cylinder head, clamps too loose, hangers worn or not connected tightly, or even loose/broken motor mounts. For cars like mine that are lowered road clearance is critical so I've had to tweak and trim to get it snug but not so close that it slaps and even then I scrape occasionally.

    For now the rusty header wouldn't be a deal breaker yet, but I'd look over the rest of the car with greater detail. It looks like the guy is trying to be honest.

    Paint/Body - The white in the joints and jams could be from waxing or polishing. Sometimes it gets into those places if excessive amount of them is on the panel being buffed. At the same time it could also be over spray.


    EGR tubes - I know I said the guy is trying to be honest but either (A) he's just repeating what was told to him form previous owner because he may not know enough about f-bodies* or (B) He's full of shit on this comment. Those tubes are stock, I see no welds or seams that would indicate they were shorten. Not to mention egr robs HP no matter what you do with the tubes except eliminate it and plug the egr tubes on the headers. Also I think these are either TS&P or Pacesetter headers with the egr tubes. They look very similar IMHO. Pacesetter's are a good budget header as long as you get the ceramic coated, race style (no egr) LT's. Stainless steel are better and cost more but ceramic coated are a close 2nd.

    Security Light on - as long as the key starts it you should be fine. It could be a dirty key or a quirk. If it does quit letting you start it there is a fix you can do to bypass the system and not have to worry about it.

    Check Engine Light (CEL) - very common to have it come on after a header install, means the can hasn't been tuned yet to delete the rear 02's. This can be a plus - I'd take it as a sign no one has gone in and giving it a tune you don't know about. You can ride with the CEL on as long as it's just for the rear O2 codes, I'd get it read at Autozone or advance to see what codes are popping up just in case. With a few bolt ons and a Frost tune it will feel like a different car and drive better too. But I'm getting a little ahead.






    * Note - you will be surprised on the amount of BS that ppl will talk about their cars and f bodies. I've had ppl come up at car shows and tell me I have a V6, etc....

  9. #49
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,511

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    We have a couple of members here that are in OH.

    Orion and Knight are 2 that I know of. PM them and see if they might be able to give a look over.

  10. #50
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    We have a couple of members here that are in OH.

    Orion and Knight are 2 that I know of. PM them and see if they might be able to give a look over.
    Unfortunately, 0rion lives 2.5 hours away from me and does not have the time right now. I sent Knight an PM, but have not heard back yet.

  11. #51
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    okc
    Posts
    2,571

    Silver 2002 WS.6
    Red 1989 Formula

    Scott hit every point I was going to hit, the security is easy to bypass and it'll permanently get rid of that issue.

  12. #52
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Exhaust - The drivers side looks horrible, they usually rust together at the same rate. I'm thinking that the drivers side header is an older one then the one on the passenger side.

    Exhaust rattles can be from several things - IMHO all of them are small - Header bolts backing off the cylinder head, clamps too loose, hangers worn or not connected tightly, or even loose/broken motor mounts. For cars like mine that are lowered road clearance is critical so I've had to tweak and trim to get it snug but not so close that it slaps and even then I scrape occasionally.

    For now the rusty header wouldn't be a deal breaker yet, but I'd look over the rest of the car with greater detail. It looks like the guy is trying to be honest.

    Is there a way to clean all that rust or will I have to buy new headers, y-pipe, and exhaust?


    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Paint/Body - The white in the joints and jams could be from waxing or polishing. Sometimes it gets into those places if excessive amount of them is on the panel being buffed. At the same time it could also be over spray.
    How do you recommend cleaning it?

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post

    Security Light (CEL)- as long as the key starts it you should be fine. It could be a dirty key or a quirk. If it does quit letting you start it there is a fix you can do to bypass the system and not have to worry about it.
    Okay. Would I have to take it to the dealer for them to shut it off?



    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Check Engine Light (CEL) - very common to have it come on after a header install, means the can hasn't been tuned yet to delete the rear 02's. This can be a plus - I'd take it as a sign no one has gone in and giving it a tune you don't know about. You can ride with the CEL on as long as it's just for the rear O2 codes, I'd get it read at Autozone or advance to see what codes are popping up just in case. With a few bolt ons and a Frost tune it will feel like a different car and drive better too. But I'm getting a little ahead.
    Okay, autozone is able to read check engine lights?

    Overall, do you think it is worth the $5,300 or should I talk him down more...he said he won't go lower when I initially asked.

  13. #53
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    okc
    Posts
    2,571

    Silver 2002 WS.6
    Red 1989 Formula

    Quote Originally Posted by fastls1ta View Post
    Is there a way to clean all that rust or will I have to buy new headers, y-pipe, and exhaust?
    How do you recommend cleaning it?
    Okay. Would I have to take it to the dealer for them to shut it off?
    Okay, autozone is able to read check engine lights?
    Overall, do you think it is worth the $5,300 or should I talk him down more...he said he won't go lower when I initially asked.
    1. Taking the headers off and having them blasted and powdercoated will probably fix the issue.
    2. Patience, Qtips, and some cleaning products should take care of it if it just polish/wax residue. If its overspray then its fucked.
    3. Security is simple to bypass and get rid of the issue for like $10, dealer can fix it but it charges like $400 if I recall correctly.
    4. Yes Autozone checks engine lights for free.

    I would try to go to $4800 using the excuse that you gotta get a tune for it (at least $150) and you gotta fix the security light and the rusted header. If $4800 doesn't work then tell him that $5000 is your absolute highest, if that doesn't work then wait it out about a week and if its still up then call again and make the offer once again and he'll probably take it. If its gone then the search continues

  14. #54
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by silverWS6 View Post
    1. Taking the headers off and having them blasted and powdercoated will probably fix the issue.
    2. Patience, Qtips, and some cleaning products should take care of it if it just polish/wax residue. If its overspray then its fucked.
    3. Security is simple to bypass and get rid of the issue for like $10, dealer can fix it but it charges like $400 if I recall correctly.
    4. Yes Autozone checks engine lights for free.

    I would try to go to $4800 using the excuse that you gotta get a tune for it (at least $150) and you gotta fix the security light and the rusted header. If $4800 doesn't work then tell him that $5000 is your absolute highest, if that doesn't work then wait it out about a week and if its still up then call again and make the offer once again and he'll probably take it. If its gone then the search continues
    Okay, thank you silver. I will contact him now and see what he says. Be back in a few.

  15. #55
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Well silver, here is what I said to him:

    "Thanks for letting me come out last night and see the vehicle. After talking it over with my wife we both like the vehicle. However, $5300 is a little too high with a few issues.

    1. I will need to get the car tuned for the check engine light due to the O2 sensor. It will be at least $150.

    2. I will need to get the security light check and fixed, which is around $150 +.

    3. The driver side header is really rusted bad. Typically, the headers rust together, so it seems the passenger one was put on at a later time (maybe because it was rusted bad?) To have the header cleaned will cost $200+ or I may have to replace it (if so around $400-$500) Also, the y-pipe/exhaust is rusted.

    4. There is no paperwork for the engine/tranny. I know that is not your fault, but right now we are going on hearsay that is has been rebuilt.

    I have $4800 cash I will give you for the car. After I fix those issues I will be well above $5500."

    Here is his response:

    "Yea i know it needs a few more things so ill come down to $5000, im coming down $700 off my asking price, its only $200 more than your offer, i think thats a very fair price"

    He said he knows it needs a few more things....do you think there is something else he may not be mentioning?

  16. #56
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    I guess the next step is to run a carfax. I will run it in the morning and post it for you to see.

  17. #57
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,511

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I'm willing to bet he'll bite for $4900


    Silver answer all of your questions with the same I would have replied with.


    In regard to the headers - I would stick with them for a while unless - there is a hole in them or you're planning on making it a show car. After buying it I'm sure you're going to need to save up for some needed service and repairs you will find after it's yours. One thing I always do on every used vehicle I've ever bought was I do 100% fluids/filters change and a tune up. Yeah the previous owner might have done it but if I do it I know it's all good and I will have no doubts to if anything is due.

    This lets me also know in detail just how the vehicle was care for.


    Paint - I can't help you here to much. I'm sure some body/paint guys will chime in here.

  18. #58
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Thanks SMWS6TA for your advice. You have helped me out a lot.

    Part of me is still a little leery about this car. I am not 100% sure why, but it is a gut feeling. I really like the way it looks and sounds, I just don't want to make the wrong purchase.

    This guy gave me his opinion and I want to share it with you and everyone else. Let me know what you think.

    To me, it looks like the Y-pipe is rusted completely through at the front on the driver side and needs to be replaced.

    I have some doubts about the engine rebuild. I have an LS1 also and that engine looks suspiciously original. For example, the PCV valve is in a rubber jacket, on the passenger side top, that degrades over time and falls apart before 100k miles if disturbed. The one on this engine looks the same unless it was replaced 40k miles ago, but I doubt that they would have used an exact replacement. A lot of the other items on the engine look a bit too original for the engine to have been rebuild to any degree.

    The oil pressure you stated is about normal for a cold engine at idle with 100k miles in a fairly cool ambient. How cold was the air then?

    The wires hangin down in view in the lower hole in the front bumper are probably due to replacment of the park/turn lamps socket and the extra lengths were not tied up out of the way. On the plus side, those longer wires help with the lamp replacement. Those sockets are often replaced due to water damage. Because the damage is really caused by the segmented construction of the lens, it will probably happen again.

    Try to listen to the engine after a cold start (check the engine for heat before starting it). Some LS1 engines, like mine, have an annoying piston slap/knock for the first 2-3 minutes after a cold start. Then it disappears. Might be a bargaining point if you don't mind it too much.

    Good luck

  19. #59
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,511

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    He has made very good points.


    I'm looking at it through a couple of pics and all I can do is offer advice for my experience with f bodies. You gotta feel comfortable with the purchase. If it feels fishy and your gut is telling you something, I'd listen to it. I've walked away form 3 deals when I was shopping for mine, even had one blew a rod while on a test ride.

  20. #60
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    He has made very good points.


    I'm looking at it through a couple of pics and all I can do is offer advice for my experience with f bodies. You gotta feel comfortable with the purchase. If it feels fishy and your gut is telling you something, I'd listen to it. I've walked away form 3 deals when I was shopping for mine, even had one blew a rod while on a test ride.
    Yeah, I agree.

    If I find anything else, I will post it on this thread for you and others to comment on.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. ISO 1998 trans am , camaro ls ECM and only 1998 ECM for ls1
    By knock0991 in forum Computer & Tuning
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-24-2015, 07:59 AM
  2. For Sale: 1998 Pontiac Trans Am LS1 6 speed trans
    By formula101 in forum Vehicles For Sale / Trade
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-24-2009, 07:24 PM
  3. FS 1998 Trans AM
    By rush007 in forum Vehicles For Sale / Trade
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-09-2009, 09:16 PM
  4. 1998 Ws6 Trans am
    By taylorr12 in forum Vehicles For Sale / Trade
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-08-2008, 10:37 PM
  5. 1998 Trans Ams....
    By wzup1000 in forum Firebird / WS6
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-25-2006, 07:55 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •