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14.49 ET @96mph. HELP!

This is a discussion on 14.49 ET @96mph. HELP! within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by nukkinfuttz I've ran my turbo 4cyl beretta over 200 passes and it runs 12's. I'm not new ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nukkinfuttz View Post
    I've ran my turbo 4cyl beretta over 200 passes and it runs 12's. I'm not new to drag racing, and have a pretty good understanding. This is the second time I have raced this trans am. But it's an automatic with no wheel spin, so I'm not sure how much driver error I can really introduce.
    I can certainly see your point about launching a manual and having to shift gears and all. But in this case I just floor it and let off the gas. Simple
    Certainly sounds like you know your way around the track much more than myself. I ran PaJeff's Monty carlo this last time and it is auto and has a best time of 16.1 and due to the heat I couldn't get it below 17.1 in the heat. Gas and go is what I thought but a lot of other factors play in..
    Last edited by kingls1; 09-21-2015 at 03:48 PM.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Just curious....does the car seem like it's shifting fine? Are you monitoring where it's shifting at RPM wise? Same from run to run?
    It's on jackstands.

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    Junior Member nukkinfuttz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Just curious....does the car seem like it's
    shifting fine? Are you monitoring where it's shifting at RPM wise? Same from run to run?
    Great question. No I really didn't look at the RPMS since I just left it in D. But maybe on the way to work tomorrow I'll goose it and see exactly where it shifts at then post it here. Maybe it's not shifting at the "normal" rpm.

    Are you automatic guys manually shifting when you run the quarter? That might be something that explains my situation

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    If I owned an auto, I'd definitely just leave it in D like yourself. You can't shift faster than a computer. That advice is for anyone with an auto. Unless the computer is commanding shift points below optimal rpm levels, then manually shifting would add time. Stock limiter settings should be at/around 6250 rpm. I'm not sure where a stock tune shifts at though being I'm an M6.

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    Senior Member Whamhammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nukkinfuttz View Post
    Great question. No I really didn't look at the RPMS since I just left it in D. But maybe on the way to work tomorrow I'll goose it and see exactly where it shifts at then post it here. Maybe it's not shifting at the "normal" rpm.

    Are you automatic guys manually shifting when you run the quarter? That might be something that explains my situation
    Do you "load" the coverter before you launch? That made a huge difference on my old TPI T/A that I had. The torque range is even higher up on a LS1.

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    Junior Member nukkinfuttz's Avatar
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    Definitely. After staging, when the first yellow lights, I floor the gas pedal, but hold the brake and bring the engine up onto the stall. When the last yellow turns on, let off brake. Last step. Enjoy complete bliss for 14 seconds ;-)
    Then the disappointment sets in at the slip shack hahaha
    kingls1 likes this.

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    Senior Member Whamhammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nukkinfuttz View Post
    Definitely. After staging, when the first yellow lights, I floor the gas pedal, but hold the brake and bring the engine up onto the stall. When the last yellow turns on, let off brake. Last step. Enjoy complete bliss for 14 seconds ;-)
    Then the disappointment sets in at the slip shack hahaha
    Yeah, thats not good. I wonder how worn out the valvetrain is, maybe your cam profile is completely circular now

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I see you have a K&N....when was the last time you cleaned the MAF sensor? To me it does sound like the car is down on power but I'm not sure I would say there's a problem there. Might just need a few little things done to it...primarily a tune but I would knock out a few mods before doing the tune. Throw some headers and a tune at it.

    There's also some free or low dollar mods you could do too that might help a little bit. Free ram air, tb coolant bypass, fernco hose, ect ect.
    This is an excellent point. Try swapping to a paper filter. My K&N got "old" and too difficult to maintain. Eventually, even after a cleaning, it was clogged and not breathing well. Throttle response was horrid. Swapped to paper and it was like my car all of a sudden came back to life.

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    Junior Member nukkinfuttz's Avatar
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    Car shifts from 1 to 2 at 5200. Whatcha think?

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    I don't have an auto, but... I assume that redline is optimum. If you go to the track again, maybe put it in L and work your way up manually? Otherwise, you'd need a tune to change the shift point at WOT.
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    Junior Member nukkinfuttz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    This is an excellent point. Try swapping to a paper filter. My K&N got "old" and too difficult to maintain. Eventually, even after a cleaning, it was clogged and not breathing well. Throttle response was horrid. Swapped to paper and it was like my car all of a sudden came back to life.
    Wow really? Although I'm suprised to here this about a performance filter, during my searching i noticed others saying the same thing. So, do you recommend anything in particular? Purilator?

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    I just got a Fram, myself. Others on here are more qualified to comment on particular types or brands. I have no track experience. But I'm a paper-only convert, for sure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nukkinfuttz View Post
    Car shifts from 1 to 2 at 5200. Whatcha think?
    That seems very low to me under a WOT pull. You're definitely leaving a lot of power on the table and aren't at your power band yet if the car is shifting there.

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    Junior Member nukkinfuttz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    That seems very low to me under a WOT pull. You're definitely leaving a lot of power on the table and aren't at your power band yet if the car is shifting there.
    Agreed. 5250 is the rpm where tq and hp cross, I would think I should carry it up higher manually, so the next shift would land me higher up in the R's in the next gear.
    Maybe I'll tey ahifting manually next time and take it to redline.
    Do you shift your manual at redline or somewhere else?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I shift right around 6200 or a bit more... as close to as possible. Sometimes it's hard to get it exact with my setup. With 4.11 gearing and the Procharger the RPM'S climb stupid fast, especially out of 1st.

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    Junior Member nukkinfuttz's Avatar
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    Great! Thanks for the help everyone.
    So my to-do list is as follows...
    1. Switch back to Fram paper filter.
    2. Run some injector cleaner through
    3. Manually shift at or around 6200 RPM

    I'll try to make it to the track next Friday and see how these affect ET and MPH and post the results back here

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    you should be shifting at 6000 but keep in mind the tach isn't super reliable so first I would want to log it and see exactly where it's shifting at and then try to figure out why it's shifting there if it's in fact 800 rpm below commanded. Stock gears I assume? Seems like I read you had counted the teeth or something. Did you look at the RPO codes in the door to make sure you have a GU5 code for 3.23's?

    To the K&N debate.....that's been ongoing for years. Personally I've ran the same one for about 15 years. I just clean it every year and keep it lightly oiled. No problems out of it. I'm speed density now so the MAF isn't a concern anymore but back when I ran the MAF I just took it off and cleaned it yearly with MAF cleaner.....usually a week or so after cleaning the filter.
    Last edited by 0rion; 09-22-2015 at 09:12 AM.

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    Junior Member nukkinfuttz's Avatar
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    I did a "test run" shifting manual out of first, I find when the factory tach hit 5800, middle of yellow, I hit the rev limiter.
    Does that sound like the factory tach is off?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    According to online sources, the tack rev limiter from the factory was set to 6200rpm for the ls1 motor. Max hp was at 5200rpm (320hp) and max torque (345tq) at 4400rpm.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    As far as the K&N issue I agree with Tim I have run my Blackwing for the past 4 years and haven't had a issue at all. I do agree they will get oil on your Maf but the key to cleaning them is to dry them and LIGHTLY OIL them and let sit over night and allow the oil to soak in. Also like he said run a day or two and clean the Maf. The performance is worth it to me.
    As far as shifting I'm a M6 car and shift before red line because normally motors run out of power before red line and generally flatten out or lose. My motor was never on the dyno so it's just a feel for me, also my clock registers 127k so it's maybe more caution as well..
    Plan on the long tubes to go with the cat back with a tune and possibly a stall and your times will be right where you want them.
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