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02' shifting problem

This is a discussion on 02' shifting problem within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I had a strange problem today. I blew a sanford and son truck off the road today, and while doing ...

  1. #1
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    02' shifting problem

    I had a strange problem today. I blew a sanford and son truck off the road today, and while doing so could not shift. Passed him like a missle in 1st at 5grand but could not shift into ANY gear (4th to bypass the skip shift didnt work) , then when I coasted up to a light, clutch in, gear in first...... it "jumped", twice. Do these clutches have a hydraulic slave cylinder?
    When I race this damn thing do I need to start in 2nd or 3rd, like a roll on race.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Yes the Master and Slave are both hydraulic.

    Your problem could be a couple of things.

    1st - "The hydraulic clutch cable" - This attaches the Master to the Slave. It has a small orifice that plagues the T56. It usually shows up when doing rapid hard shifting. To fix it most do a drill mod. This mod enlarges the opening.

    2nd - Your syncros could be going. How many miles on the transmission? Depending on how much abuse they usually need a rebuild around 120-160k miles.



    My money is on the first one. Too many times it has happen to me.

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    Now in Summit LT1 Flavor! Y2KArcticSS's Avatar
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    Hydraulics, yes. You have a slave and master cylinder. Check your reservoir, make sure it's full of Dot3 brake fluid, it sits behind the brake booster to the right, looking in from the front of the car. If it's empty, you may have air in your lines, causing misc. hiccups in shifting, and the system will have to be bled (NOT easy)

    However, in my past two major experiences with these clutch systems, it was the slave cylinder itself going bad causing my problems (eerily similar to yours).

    Does your clutch pedal ever feel soft or spongy, slow to come back up?

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    SMW beat me to it, and added a couple scenerios

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    clutch

    Thanks guys for the info. Yes the pedal is slow sometimes to come back. What does that mean? 114K on car. Sometime it feels spongy and I thought I heard a hiss. How hard is it to change the master up on ramps? THe oriface sounds right, it was during hard shifting. Should I try a new master? I really dont want to dump a grand into it.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Again my $$ is on the hydraulic clutch cable.

    This will answer both questions


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    The easiest and first thing I would do is check the fluid level and check to see if the fluid is dirty. If the fluid is black or even cloudy I would suck it out of the res. and replace with clean. Pump the pedal 5-10 times and see if it is still cloudy. If it is repeat until clean. Not only will this help, it will make your master and slave last longer. If it is bad dirty either or both may be on the way out already.

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    bleeding

    How can I bleed the master cylinder. Might be easier to clean out all the fluid that way. Also what is the typical milage you can get
    a clutch system before service is required.

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    Member blackcar's Avatar
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    To get all the fluid out you would need to open the bleeder on the slave on top of the tranny. He talks about it in the video. He drilled a hole to get to his. But you can do it with out drilling the hole.

    But it is a lot easier to just suck the fluid out of the resivor and replace with clean like above. It will probably only take about 3 times to get it to stay clean.

    Our systems are bad about letting clutch dust get in the fluid. No matter which way you do it keep an eye on the fluid and any time it starts to get cloudy do it again. You should check it about every time you fill up with gas.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    I suck the fluid out on every oil change and it seems to keep everything clean and working properly.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    For a one person job drilling a hole like in the video is easiest. It lets you access it without needing a lift or jack stands. Only problem with this method is that you don't have a clear shot at tightening it and holding the pedal down to prevent air from getting in the system.

    IMHO 2 people is always better for this job. You'll need some one to look at the fluid level and hold the pedal while you tighten the bleeder valve.


    Flushing it can be a major PITA. I know you can use a Mitty Vac to do it but I don't have one yet so I can't say from experience just how easier it is.



    Tick Performance sells a speed bleeder extension hose that brings it up to the reservoir for around $49. It makes it much easier to bleed the system.


    Also Next time I have to swap out my Master I'm upgrading to an adjustable Tick one. It eliminates the need for a drill mod and they seem to last and perform longer. It gets rid of the shifting problems at high rpms.

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    Member blackcar's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro SS
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    I suck the fluid out on every oil change and it seems to keep everything clean and working properly.
    How often do you change your oil?

    I change mine every 5,000 miles. My clutch fluid will get dirty looking way before that. But your are probably doing better than most. I didn't do anything to my clutch fluid until my master went out. When I was searching for what master to go back with is when I found out about keeping the fluid clean.

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    A slave cylinder will fix that issue, I would go with the one from Tick, mine fixed all my high RPM shifting problems.

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    Member Redrokit8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    I suck the fluid out on every oil change and it seems to keep everything clean and working properly.
    I'm with SSSLP on that. My Corvette had the same type clutch and I did exactly the same thing at oil changes. Actually did the same on my bike as well. Easy to do and the preventive maintenance pays off IMO.

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    I dont really want to have somone tear my car apart but I am going to have a complete clutch job next week. Cost = about a grand. No sense replacing the master without the slave. Car has 114k miles. I raced these cars when they were new and I never recall the clutch sticking or having problems under hard shifting.

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