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What should i start off with?

This is a discussion on What should i start off with? within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey guys, sorry i did not introduce myself to the page. But i just got a 2001 camaro a4. I ...

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    What should i start off with?

    Hey guys, sorry i did not introduce myself to the page. But i just got a 2001 camaro a4. I had a 2001 5 speed mustang so the camaro is totally different.

    All i have is a flowmaster exhaust. What should i start off doing? Also tips, and advice would be great!

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    My car also has 118,200 miles.

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    There are lots of things that can be done and some great first add ons include subframe connectors (highly recommend UMI - I ran their two point bolt ins, and with more track duty upgraded to the three point bolt ins); a lid on the air box, clean the MAF and throttle body and check that the throttle stop is in fact allowing WOT (most have to be ground back a bit... carefully); if emissions are not a worry the secondary air system can be removed and "tuned out" so you do not have the SES light on all the time; a mail order tune from Frost (see sponsor link) is a great idea, especially with an A4...

    What are your plans?

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    Oh i forgot to mention. I did pick up a slp lid about a week ago. The car is a daily. I dont thinl it will see a track much.id like to get 350 wheel.
    Also, i was planning on having my car dyno tuned either by kris keltner or doc baker. They live close to me anyways. Was told dyno tunes are good over stock.

    The main concern i have is starting off modding. Im not sure if i should do a stall, 3.73s gears, exhaust, etc..

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    A stall will really wake your car up - I went 3,200 with ours and regret not stepping up to a 3,600... but we do track our car. If you have access, then a dyno tune is the preferred choice. And you are on the money with an upgrade to 3.73's for an A4 car. The stock rear is a semi-POS so you are far better off swapping in a 12 bolt, 9 inch or even a Strange S60 versus putting money into the stock 10 bolt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    A stall will really wake your car up - I went 3,200 with ours and regret not stepping up to a 3,600... but we do track our car. If you have access, then a dyno tune is the preferred choice. And you are on the money with an upgrade to 3.73's for an A4 car. The stock rear is a semi-POS so you are far better off swapping in a 12 bolt, 9 inch or even a Strange S60 versus putting money into the stock 10 bolt.
    I was told yank 3600 stall, with 3.73s.

    I juat picked up some texas speed performance 1 7/8 longtubes for 250$. There brand new. Im not sure on if i will swap rear ends. May just stay with the 10 bolt.

    As for plans, i would love to have a cam. 224r cam. I want good gains, but not to big on a cam. Like i said its my DD.

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    Be sure to install an auxiliary transmission cooler as you will generate a lot more heat with an aftermarket converter. Good score on the TSP headers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Be sure to install an auxiliary transmission cooler as you will generate a lot more heat with an aftermarket converter. Good score on the TSP headers!
    When i go to install headers, should i have my mid pipe ready? Im making a x pipe, and was wondering if it needs to be made before i install headers.

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    Headers won't fit a stock pipe setup. They require aftermarket y and x pipes depending on what you go with. So unless you have a Texas speed y pipe or x pipe you will need to make modifications for it all to fit.
    Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.

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    Quote Originally Posted by raynor139 View Post
    Headers won't fit a stock pipe setup. They require aftermarket y and x pipes depending on what you go with. So unless you have a Texas speed y pipe or x pipe you will need to make modifications for it all to fit.
    I looked on tsp, and i saw the off road x pipe, with the dumps before the axle. I will get those.

    But what kind of trans cooler should i get if i get a 3600 stall

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    I originally had a B&M stacked plate cooler, but with the laid back angle on our radiators I was concerned about air flow through it being blocked. I opted for a standard tube and fin style cooler that is maybe 8" x 12" (I would have to go back and look to be sure) and it works just fine. I plumbed a trans temp gauge into the port on the driver side of the case to keep an eye on things as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I originally had a B&M stacked plate cooler, but with the laid back angle on our radiators I was concerned about air flow through it being blocked. I opted for a standard tube and fin style cooler that is maybe 8" x 12" (I would have to go back and look to be sure) and it works just fine. I plumbed a trans temp gauge into the port on the driver side of the case to keep an eye on things as well.
    I would like to get the stall asap. I have the money and was told it's a game changer for the fbodys.

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    That it is. Going to do the work yourself?

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    3600 stall for sure with 373 gears is a great dd set up. That will wake up the car like night and day. I use a Hayden trans cooler. Model # HDA-512. It has a fan on it for extra cooling capacity. A lot of guys running turbos use the same one. Keeps my Trans running cool, even in summer traffic and I have a super charger on my ride.
    1998 Pontiac TA, stock heads, FAST 90, FAST 90 TB, FLP LT, off road y-pipe with cat delete, flow master muffler, comp cams 54-457-11 223/231-610/617-112 LSA, Pro charger D1SC with FMIC @ 8psi, FROST tune, VIG 3200 stall, built 4l60e, snow meth kit, MOSER 12 bolt 373 gears, Derale 13900 trans cooler.

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    Quick question. On the catback, can i run both pipes on both side of the rear axle, or do both pipes have to go through the passenger side axle. Was told it wont go through the driver side, but wanted to know if that was true.

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    Maybe. Was told, its a pain but can be done. Am i going to have to drop the motor?

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    The wire harness, brake lines and fuel lines all run down the driver side back there -- not sure I would even try to run an exhaust pipe in that area.

    Here's the thread I made swapping out our transmission (lots of pics and detailed instructions): Transmission Removal - Part 1

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe1157 View Post
    Quick question. On the catback, can i run both pipes on both side of the rear axle, or do both pipes have to go through the passenger side axle. Was told it wont go through the driver side, but wanted to know if that was true.
    Only one way to be able to do that and that's with a Watt's Link to replace the Pan Hard Bar. It prevents you from running the tubing on the drivers side. As great as a Watt's link is I wouldn't get that unless the rear has been upgraded and you are into serious track &/or auto X racing. It's a chunck of $$. Exhaust tubing is a few bucks.
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    That hayden trans cooler, should i buy that? Im wanting a 3600 yank, and plan to get a 228r cam. Think that cooler wil be okay?

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    I have a question. On texas speed and performance they have a B&M 24,000 BMV auxillary transmission cooler is the one i would like. Does it come with everything i need, or do i have to buy other things.

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